Meeting Madame Fan: An unexpected encounter between Cantonese fare and cocktails

Nestled at the crossroads of Beach Road and Bras Basah Road, The NCO Club may appear unassuming at first glance – a heritage-conserved building characterised by terracotta tiles, framed windows and a teal roof. However, beneath this modest exterior, once a recreational facility for the armed forces, lies a hidden gem. Those in the know recognise it as a veritable lifestyle and entertainment haven that offers an array of eclectic culinary concepts.

At the forefront of this experience is Madame Fan – a Cantonese restaurant making a bold statement. With a commitment to grand hospitality, Madame Fan introduces a collection of modern dishes firmly rooted in tradition. All of this unfolds within a softly lit ambiance, where rich velvet and jazz melodies contribute to an enchanting atmosphere.

TALES OF CRAFT AND CULTURE

The history of Chinese cuisine is a narrative woven through dynasties and regions, revealing a culinary journey shaped by intricate ingredients and evolving techniques. Executive Chinese chef Pak Chee Yit of Madame Fan pays homage to this rich heritage, offering diners an immersive experience through a menu expressed in two parts.

In Tale of Craft, he presents a juxtaposition of contemporary flavours intertwined with authentic Cantonese cooking techniques.

The Alaskan King Crab Cold Somen with Hot and Sour Consomme, for example, is a refreshing cold starter featuring juicy crab meat and delicate noodles in a tangy broth made with preserved Szechuan vegetables. Equally invigorating is the Smoky Lishan Oolong Mala Quail Eggs, combining the heat of the popular mala sauce with the aromatic goodness of oolong tea leaves from Lishan, Taiwan. Aficionados of beef will enjoy the Slow Cooked Wagyu Oxtail with Hawthorn Lotus Root – a fork-tender dish dressed in homemade cinnamon and star anise sauce.

For those who prefer the comfort of familiar ingredients, Intersection of Culture brings forth a culinary evolution through a play of unexpected techniques.

At the heart of Cantonese cuisine lies the soul-warming tradition of soup, and Pak’s version is a delightful two-course affair. Simmered over four hours, the Kampong Chicken Soup with Cordyceps Flower and Bamboo Pith delivers delicious sips. The chicken is then transformed into an appetiser, expertly hand-shredded and elevated with an aged vinegar ginger sauce. Seafood enthusiasts can indulge in the Boston Lobster with Winter Melon ‘Noodles’, where the superior stock is brought to life with pickled pepper. The Braised Cognac Soon Hock Fish with Chinese Yam and Baby Cabbage in Seafood Stock is another must-try – an indulgent dish bringing together these carefully selected ingredients in a rich broth.

HAVE A TIPPLE, THEN A TASTE

Before the main dining event, Madame Fan invites guests to partake in a prelude routine at its destination bar. Whether you prefer a glass of wine or a signature cocktail with an oriental flair, the chic lounge with teal velour couches, fringed lamps and marble countertops is a welcoming space for an intimate gathering.

Come weekends, a novel experience awaits those seeking a departure from the ordinary. Enjoy a meeting of East and West with Madame Fan’s Dim Sum, Drink Sum cocktail dim sum brunch. Here, refined Chinese tapas-style classics blend with delectable drink pairings, offering an enlivening way to spend an afternoon in the company of cherished friends.

BEST ENJOYED WITH COMPANY

True to its promise as a lifestyle dining haven, Madame Fan’s allure extends well beyond food and drink, immersing guests in a glamorous old-world ambiance curated through its distinct spatial design.

The 195-seater restaurant is an opulent experience, extending the French art deco influence of The NCO Club deep into the dining hall. As guests step through an unassuming entrance, a journey through time begins in a glass elevator, gliding past surfaces adorned with restored Italian marble and vintage pictures harkening back to the former military club’s storied past. A sensually lit, elongated walkway leads patrons to the main dining area, teasingly passing by the bar along the way.

At the main dining area, four-seater tables are chosen to heighten intimacy. Through polished wood, plush red seats and theatrical lighting, the effect is captivating, especially when accompanied by the soft notes of jazz melodies. 

For larger groups or those wanting an even more exclusive experience, Madame Fan boasts six private rooms, each comfortably accommodating 10 guests. These lush cocoons are ideal settings for long-awaited soirees or important lunch meetings, with the palatial VIP room, draped in black and gold, ensuring a lasting impression.

Indulge in the Madame Fan experience. Reservations can be made online, at 6818 1921 or via email at madamefan.nco [at] marriott.com.