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SPECIAL FEATURE
Celestial Poetry
Patek Philippe demonstrates the aesthetic charms of the moon
phase complication, while also advancing the precision of the
mechanical watchmaking that makes it work
The moon exerts a mighty influence on us and has likely done so since time immemorial.
It even shaped fine watchmaking, when some inventive souls decided to track the
phases of the moon mechanically. Such devices allowed owners to track the waxing and
waning of the moon as it journeyed across the night sky, even when it might have been
obscured by clouds.
Patek Philippe has been crafting timepieces that were not only revolutionary in their intricate
mechanisms, but also possessed of sublime beauty besides. Among the family-owned
manufacture’s many innovations, there was, of course, one that was a unique tribute to the
moon: Ref. 97975. A unique reference created in 1925, it was the first wristwatch to include a
moon phase indicator on the dial. Going one better, the watch was also a perpetual calendar,
meaning that it accounted for leap years and did not need any date adjustments.
This wristwatch would mark the inception of a fascinating journey through time and space
for Patek Philippe as the manufacture sought to capture the imagination of collectors and
enthusiasts by placing the very moon on the most fortunate wrists. And for the role it played
in watchmaking history, Ref. 97975 remains a part of the permanent collection in the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, Switzerland.
The Patek Philippe Ref. 97975 is a permanent part of the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva
Over the Moon
As the years went by, the company continued to refine the moon phase feature, incorporating it into various watch models, each with its own unique design and often showcasing improvements in accuracy and technique. In the current collection, Ref. 5396R-015 Annual Calendar highlights the fact that the contemporary moon phase indicator at Patek Philippe is extremely precise, being off by only one day in 122 years. The moon phase indicator has been a part of most Patek Philippe Annual Calendar watches since 2005, where this signature complication is not paired with any others.The moon phase, of course, continued to be combined with all manner of functions. For Ref. 5575G — a watch that commemorated the 175th anniversary of Patek Philippe in 2014 — the moon phase complication was paired with another Patek Philippe signature complication, the world time indicator. The moon phase is not diminished here — in fact, it is extraordinarily prominent and unusual in its photorealistic depiction of the moon as seen from earth, complete with familiar lunar landmarks. This was achieved with contemporary techniques alongside traditional craftsmanship.
The manual-wind Caliber 215 PS LU is Patek Philippe’s smallest complicated movementAnother visually-arresting interpretation of the moon phase preceded Ref. 5575G in 2013.
This was the year Patek Philippe introduced the moon phase complication to ladies’ models,
starting with Ref. 7121J. Diamonds were now in the picture, as was the manufacture’s
manual-winding Caliber 215 PS LU, which is the smallest complicated movement in the
Patek Philippe stable. The current collection model is Ref. 7121/200G-001 and it has a bezel
decorated with 132 brilliant-cut diamonds in the Dentelle setting.
Still in the current collection, but also built on a legacy of complicated watchmaking, Ref. 6102P-001 showcases another unique style of indication for the phases of the moon. Indeed, the entire dial showcases the night sky as seen in the Northern Hemisphere. In this watch, the dial is made of several layers of sapphire crystal, the second of which indicates the phases and orbit of the moon. Ref. 6102P is the successor to the seminal Ref. 5102, where this style of display debuted.
Still in the current collection, but also built on a legacy of complicated watchmaking, Ref. 6102P-001 showcases another unique style of indication for the phases of the moon. Indeed, the entire dial showcases the night sky as seen in the Northern Hemisphere. In this watch, the dial is made of several layers of sapphire crystal, the second of which indicates the phases and orbit of the moon. Ref. 6102P is the successor to the seminal Ref. 5102, where this style of display debuted.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5208R-001 with minute repeater, perpetual calendar, monopusher chronograph and moon phase displayWhile impressively complex, Ref. 6102P is not the most complicated execution in this tale.
By rights, that honour must go to Ref. 5208R-001, a model that sees the moon phase sit
comfortably with the perpetual calendar, the monopusher chronograph and the minute
repeater. Introduced in 2011 in a platinum case, the watch exists today in a rose gold case
with an ebony black sunburst dial. The awe-inspiring Caliber R CH 27 PS QI movement is
distinguished by fine finishing touches on its 719 components and a distinctive micro-rotor.
This version of the Grand Complication debuted in 2018 and remains in the collection.
Finally, to look at watches released in the last couple of years, there is another complicated watch in the mix, Ref. 5326G-001. This 2022 watch combines the annual calendar complication with the travel time function for the first time. The travel time complication, which allows for the display of a second time zone, is one of Patek Philippe’s signature complications. This watch boasts eight patents and a beautiful anthracite granular dial made by the Patek Philippe-owned dial-maker Cadrans Fluckiger in Saint-Imier, Switzerland.
Finally, to look at watches released in the last couple of years, there is another complicated watch in the mix, Ref. 5326G-001. This 2022 watch combines the annual calendar complication with the travel time function for the first time. The travel time complication, which allows for the display of a second time zone, is one of Patek Philippe’s signature complications. This watch boasts eight patents and a beautiful anthracite granular dial made by the Patek Philippe-owned dial-maker Cadrans Fluckiger in Saint-Imier, Switzerland.
Patek Philippe’s Ref. 5326G-001 combines the annual calendar and moon phase complications with the travel
time complication for the first time
THE MOON PHASE INDICATOR
HAS BEEN A PART OF MOST PATEK
PHILIPPE ANNUAL CALENDAR
WATCHES SINCE 2005.
Also released in 2022, the Calatrava Ref. 5057G-010 features an interesting and unique blend
of characteristics, including a hand-guilloche hobnail bezel. The Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU that
beats within it is normally never found anywhere but Ref. 5712, and that alone would make
this watch special. Enthusiasts will also recognise the fact that Caliber 240 itself is a notable
ultra-thin movement, created by Patek Philippe in 1977 and now fitted with the brand’s latest
innovations, including its proprietary escapement technology and the ultra-precise moon
phase indicator. Ref. 5057G is also noteworthy in that it is a special edition created for the
50th anniversary of Cortina Watch, and is based on an earlier watch, Ref. 5057R, which was
made in 1997 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the same retailer.
Photos: Patek Philippe
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