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Distinctive yet versatile, sporty yet sleek,
Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato collection
is a brand signature that has been 50
years in the making
Created in 1975, at a time when the luxury sports watch became fashionable and the
de rigueur accessory for well-heeled gents, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato emerged as
one of the most striking and memorable designs in the category. Almost five decades on,
it remains a signature timepiece of the watchmaker, and has become a true icon in the
industry. The watch has since inspired a whole line of current Laureato models that meld its
classic design with modern aesthetics and technical innovations.
While it may have been updated and upgraded over the years, the Laureato’s distinctive
look has been preserved. The raised octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet are two
key design features that make the watch instantly recognisable and remain so on today’s
Laureato models.
The raised octagonal
bezel and integrated bracelet are two
key design features that make the watch instantly
recognisable and remain so on today’s Laureato models.
Bold Beginnings
The very first Laureato was a bold watch for its time, thanks to its modern design that stood
out from the typically more refined-looking styles that were common then. It also was
produced in a bi-colour version, which had a steel case, gold bezel and steel bracelet links
that featured gold insets — a precursor of the trend for two-toned watches that emerged
subsequently.
GIRARD-PERREGAUX SET THE OSCILLATION
FREQUENCY OF ITS FIRST LAUREATO’S QUARTZ MOVEMENT AT 32,768 Hz AND SET A WORLD
STANDARD THAT’S STILL APPLIED TODAY.
For the next two decades, Girard-Perregaux continued to fit variations of the Laureato with
quartz movements. It wasn’t until 1995 that it received a mechanical movement: The slimline self-winding mechanical GP 3100 calibre. Then, it went through a few notable changes
in the following years: A chronograph version was created in 1996, and in 1998, a tourbillon
powered by the brand’s famed Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges movement was revealed.
The Laureato began increasing in size as it moved into the year 2000 and beyond. Its case
diameters expanded towards measurements that exceeded 40mm.
A Return To Its Roots
Fast-forward to 2016, and Girard-Perregaux celebrated a momentous year that marked
its 225th anniversary. To honour this milestone, the brand released new Laureato editions
that saw the timepiece returning to its original style and design. The watchmaker brought
it back to basics, so to speak, and released it in a limited edition of 225 pieces to
commemorate the occasion.
The watch was taken back to a more modest size of 41mm after being upsized in several
models that preceded it. This full-steel model featured a mix of polished and satin-brushed
finishing and had a blue or grey dial that had a Clou de Paris guilloché hobnail pattern like
the first 1975 models. The baton-shaped hands recalled those found in the original model,
but with a hint of luminescent material this time round. Other updated features included an
anti-reflective treatment on the crystal and the addition of a sapphire crystal on the back.
The Classic Laureato
42mm model was clearly designed to be
a crowd-pleaser and it proved to be one.
Timeless Style
Unsurprisingly, this simple, classic yet outstanding Laureato — modernised with the
abovementioned features as well as the GP03300-0030 manufacture movement — was
well-received, leaving many hoping that Girard-Perregaux would introduce it into its regular
collection, following this anniversary release.
Girard-Perregaux did just that in the following year, launching a full-fledged collection that
included the Classic Laureato in a 42mm size, along with a smaller-sized 38mm model and
a 34mm version for its female fans. The 42mm model was clearly designed to be a crowd-pleaser and it proved to be one — apart from the marginal size difference and the movement
it housed (the GP01800), it is pretty much the same as the 2016 anniversary limited edition.
Bearing the qualities of a good watch that will take one anywhere, it is versatile, sporty and
yet dressy, and comes complete with a solid horology history. The Classic Laureato 42mm is
available today in a range of dial colours, including green, black, blue and silver.
Next came the chronograph, an essential addition to any luxury sports watch collection. The
Laureato Chronograph was introduced in a 42mm size and is currently available in pink gold
or steel. It is worth noting that the steel models are made of 904L steel, which is different
from the steel typically used by the watch industry. It has a higher chromium content, which
translates to a stronger resistance to corrosion and better durability. It can also be polished to
a higher shine, as it can withstand the polishing process better than standard steel.
The steel models are
made of 904L steel, which has better durability and a
stronger resistance to corrosion.
The dial of the Laureato Chronograph features the signature Clou de Paris pattern and is
available in a deep blue version with sub-dials in the same hue, as well as two variants with
contrasting colours — black with blue sub-dials, and a “panda” version in white with black
sub-dials. The watch is fitted with Girard-Perregaux’s own GP03300 base calibre that’s built
with a chronograph module.
The brand then stripped down the Laureato and extended the line with a skeletonised model.
Skeleton watches tend to have an ornate, somewhat traditional look, but Girard-Perregaux
has managed to create a contemporary 42mm version that perfectly incorporates the
Laureato’s signature aesthetic features in steel and pink gold.
The case offers a view of the GP01800-0006 calibre, treated using a galvanic process,
so that the wearer can just about fully admire the openworked mechanical labyrinth that
comprises a total of 173 components, all beautifully hand-decorated in a modern fashion.
Fifty years on, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato remains the brand’s flagship collection for good
reason: Its modern-retro design sensibilities give it a timeless appeal that comes backed with
watchmaking pedigree. It’s a serious sporty-luxe watch contender and one that will stand the
test of time.
The Hour Glass is the exclusive retailer of Girard-Perregaux in Singapore.
Photos: Girard-Perregaux and The Hour Glass
