Where most brands introduce at least a few models at a global event like Watches and Wonders Geneva, A. Lange & Söhne raised eyebrows and expectations by revealing just one: the Odysseus Chronograph. The new limited-edition 42.5mm Odysseus in steel with matching bracelet marks the first instance of the Odysseus model being equipped with a chronograph; chronograph enthusiasts will want to note that the vertical clutch makes its first appearance in an A. Lange & Söhne watch here. In fact, calibre L156.1 is the Glashütte manufacture’s first-ever automatic chronograph, which is remarkable considering that it is the maker of the only triple-split seconds chronograph in the world. Dial-side, this timepiece stands out for its method of tracking elapsed minutes through a large central hand rather than a counter. Additionally, the chronograph pushers are ingeniously integrated into the existing pushers that control the date and day counters, facilitated by a crown-controlled function selector.

The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 is not only the brand’s first traditional mechanical chronograph but also the only one in the world with a dual impulse escapement. The watch, equipped with a spartan dial, demonstrates a shift in Grand Seiko’s approach within their traditional mechanical range. The dial-side placement of the chronograph module led to a distinct design and marks it as the most prestigious modular-style timepiece. The Tentagraph watch boasts a large (43mm) and thick (approximately 15mm) case, but its ergonomic lug styling accommodates various wrist sizes. The high-intensity titanium case and bracelet undergo Zaratsu polishing for a mirror-like effect, showcasing Grand Seiko’s commitment to exceptional finishing. This extends to the calibre, which showcases magnificent finishing touches. While such design flourishes are not new for Grand Seiko, they exemplify the brand’s dedication to detail and craftsmanship.

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm is the new embodiment of the brand’s former CEO and Honorary Chairman Jack Heuer’s vision for enhanced legibility. While initial observations might suggest familiar design elements, the standout feature of this latest release is the entirely new “glass box” design. This innovative construction boasts smooth curves that seamlessly encompass a freshly-designed curved flange. Chronograph enthusiasts will note that the tachymeter scale is outside the flange. Through exceptional engineering, the watch offers minimal distortion caused by refraction, ensuring clear visibility from various angles. Like another watch on this list, there are two versions in steel: a bi-compax and a tri-compax reverse panda execution. Both variations pay homage to the iconic aesthetics of the Carrera while embracing a contemporary spirit through meticulous detailing and the development of a new calibre. An evolutionary step forward, the calibre TH20-00 introduces bidirectional winding, a reimagined skeletonised TAG Heuer shield rotor, and an impressive 80 hours of power reserve.

In a year where chronographs — particularly the flyback variant — have taken the spotlight, the Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback stands out with its distinctive double date window and buttery-smooth chronograph pushers. Unlike most chronographs, where the date feature gets in the way, the 42.5mm Pilot Big Date (offered in steel and matte black ceramic versions) manages to captivate with its distinctive features. The big date function jumps in a fraction of a second, making it as close to being instantaneous as anything ever achieved in a mechanical watch. Additionally, adjusting the date through the crown is quick and hassle-free, ensuring synchronisation. The “Pilot” in the watch’s name is a nod to Zenith’s aviation heritage, and it holds the right to use the term on its dial. This legacy was established in 1909 when aviator Louis Bleriot successfully crossed the English Channel with a Zenith timekeeper, solidifying the brand’s presence in the aviation world.