How this Aman resort is helping to save Venice's artisans

This family-run workshop is Venice’s last surviving gold leaf maker, and its work is central to the visual identity of Venice. The gold leaf it produces adorns the intricate mosaics of basilicas and enhances the lavish interiors of historic palazzos. Beyond architecture, this delicate material also embellishes Venetian crafts, from traditional masks to ornate frames.

But over at luxury property Aman Venice, the bar on the second floor takes it one step further; it serves up a dry martini named Lustful, which comes topped with a gold leaf.

Taking a swig of actual 24 karat gold may seem an extreme extravagance, yet in reality, it’s an important way to keep business at the workshop running and artisans employed while educating its well-heeled guests on the gilded history of the city.

“When our bar manager, Antonio, describes the cocktail, he also shares the story of the creator of the gold leaf,” said Licinio Garavaglia, the hotel’s General Manager.

Mario Berta Battiloro is just one of the many last standing workshops that Aman Venice works with. As one of the grandest properties in the lagoon, the hotel of just 24 suites takes it upon itself to preserve these trades. The goal is not just to retain the artistic integrity of its grand historical interiors but to keep Venetian culture alive.

Indeed, Venice's splendour owes its existence to the artisans who have honed their artistry over centuries. Yet economic challenges posed by over tourism and modernisation have caused the number of skilled craftsmen to dwindle rapidly.

“We work extremely hard to protect declining skills through regenerative interior design and by engaging guests with little-known local talents,” says Garavaglia. “We believe in the ideals of sustainable development — leaving a better world to future generations.”

HOW VENICE GREW INTO A CRUCIBLE OF LUXURY ARTISANS

Aman Venice’s efforts at supporting artisans has an urgent hue. The luxurious property is set within Palazzo Papadopoli and has a history dating back to the 16th century. It is one of the city's grandest residences with art and craftsmanship inscribed into its very walls. Today, the palazzo is owned by the Arrivabene family, a noble Italian family that still lives on the topmost floor of the property, while the rest is let out for the Aman brand to manage as a luxury hotel.

Its ceilings sport frescoes by Giambattista Tiepolo, one of the most prolific Italian artists of the day. His expressive style is marked by luminosity, vibrant colours, and a sense of ethereal lightness in portraying Venetian artistic sensibilities. These adorn many of the hotel’s public spaces as well as some of its rooms. When one gazes upon the ceiling today, it harks back to a time when the lagoon was a cosmopolitan seaward republic with fabulous riches that drip off it like molten gold.

“The uniqueness of Venice comes from its craftsmanship,” explained Garavaglia. “Our storied culture-steeped city is spilling with specialists unique to this Italian coastal destination.”

Venice's culture of artisanship has a direct relation to its ascendance to staggering wealth. Situated on a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea, Venice was perfectly positioned to act as a hub for trade between Western Europe and the Byzantine Empire, as well as the Islamic world.

The city soon developed an enviable monopoly over the import of exotic commodities such as spices, silk, and precious metals. Venetian merchants, skilled in the art of commerce and diplomacy, established far-reaching trade networks that extended from the Middle East to Northern Europe, ensuring the flow of luxury goods into European markets.

Artisans flourished in this melting pot of cultures. The city's glassmakers, based on the island of Murano, were renowned for producing the finest glassware in the world, coveted by European royalty and aristocracy. Venetian lace, from the island of Burano, was another symbol of delicate artistry, each piece intricately handcrafted, telling stories of patience and skill.

This unique positioning not only brought immense wealth which it channelled into grand architectural endeavours and the arts, but also fostered a culture distinct from the rest of Italy. “So many factors could be mentioned as pivotal parts of defining Venice’s opulent identity from trade, commerce, naval power, to the innovative economy with a modern banking system,” explained Garavaglia.

While the Italian Renaissance bloomed with an emphasis on the rediscovery of classical Greek and Roman knowledge, Venice was influenced by its relationships with the Byzantine Empire and the Islamic world, imbibing and integrating diverse artistic and architectural styles. Wealth also tended to attract the artists and craftsmen who plied trades that the well-heeled adored.

The result? A beautiful city that rose out of the sea as a cultural titan.

Much of this is seen in Aman Venice itself. It is after all, one of only eight such palazzos found in the city. “The hotel reveals masterpieces of craftsmanship at every turn,” said Garavaglia. “Even the smallest details of the palazzo can unlock human stories from across the centuries.”

Guests are greeted with soaring ceilings adorned with gilded mouldings, and grand chandeliers made of Murano glass, while many rooms boast historic silk wall coverings, traditional terrazzo flooring, and intricately carved fireplaces.

“It’s easy to walk past the lantern in the lobby without a second thought,” he remarked. “But those who take the time to find out will discover that this artefact is a survivor of the Battle of Lepanto in 1571, the largest-scale naval conflict in history, when it stood on the deck of Admiral Coccina’s warship. He kept it as a memento, and brought it home to his palazzo, where it stands today.”

IS OVERTOURISM CAUSING VENICE’S SPIRITUAL DEATH?

Such historical charms have captivated travellers for decades, so much so that the floating city heaves under the weight of overtourism.  As of 2019, Venice, a city with a resident population of just over 50,000, welcomed a staggering 30 million visitors annually, according to data from Statista. During the popular masked festival of Carnaval alone, some 193,000 tourists flooded the historical centre.

The unfortunate effect is manifold: It has led to a departure of businesses that cater to local residents (like supermarkets) and rising rents that has led to an exodus of residents – including families that have nurtured these skills.

Many tourists are also shopping for cheap mass-produced souvenirs over the original traditional handworks that take weeks to produce. Just walk around Venice and one would see the hordes of tourists huffing and puffing away through jam-packed streets to get to the major Instagram spots.

“Given the fragility of our beautiful destination, it is all the more important that we honour the people at the heart of the experiences that we offer and the services we provide,” said Garavaglia.

Aside from the gold leaf workshop, Aman Venice also works with Fornace Orsoni, which specialises in mosaics, as well as Bevilacqua, which produces woven fabrics and velvets, another Venetian specialty.

Beyond ensuring pristine interiors for the hotel, Aman Venice curates tours that immerse guests in the city's artisan heritage.

Garavaglia said: “The roots of the Bevilacqua family in the textile world date back to 1499 and during a private tour of their workshop, guests will have the unique opportunity to see the weavers at work as they produce refined Soprarizzo velvet using ancient techniques. The tour will also visit the Orsoni atelier — a glassmaker that has created a legacy, handing down mysterious alchemies for four generations since 1888.”

These experiences are curated and led by the foremost experts in their fields, and ranges from true art historians to architects, chefs and engineers.

“It allows a rare audience with the characters behind the handcrafts in a way that supports prized professionals such as at the Mario Berta Battiloro — which is vital since, if young apprentices aren’t helped, the art forms will be lost.”

So committed to the local community that even the bar soaps are made by the prisoners of La Giudecca Women’s Prison — an exquisite concoction created just for the hotel. Meanwhile over at Arva, the chandeliered restaurant that serves Venetian cuisine, executive chef Matteo Panfilio sources seafood from local fishermen of the lagoon in Burano as well the farmers on the island of Sant’Erasmo. The bread meanwhile is sourced from Pasticceria Giotto, a social-enterprise bakery in a prison.

“The goal is to leave our guests with an appreciation for the artisan, a sense of connection to a craft and to the destination, so they can spread the word of Venice’s artisans, like ambassadors around the world.”

For the gold beaters at the Mario Berta Battiloro workshop clanging away with their hammers, such reassuring words are at least music to their ears.