Stepping back in time with the Amandira: The luxury yacht where guests have been moved to tears

It’s 7.30am, I am on a bumpy dingy, and still swooning over last night ‒ my first Aman experience at the Amandari in Ubud, a place of tranquillity in the heart of spiritual Bali.

A green juice thoughtfully prepared by the hotel in one hand, and my iPhone in the other to Insta every moment, I am now on a quest to answer one central question: What is the definition of luxury according to Aman, here in Indonesia?

The dingy I am on is bound for the Amandira ‒ Aman’s flagship yacht that offers tailor-made voyages to the most pristine islands around the Indonesian archipelago. It’s a vessel that takes you back in time to the romance of the ancient spice trade, while ethereal encounters with wildlife have moved guests to tears.

But alas, at least for this trip, I will have to leave all that for my imagination. Today, I am on a day cruise for a select group of media ‒ an event which we’ve been told has been a miracle in the making.

Since her maiden voyage in 2015, the Amandira has been on another 150 expeditions ‒  that’s about 20 trips a year, discounting the pandemic years. With a recommended lead time of 6 months to a year for anyone who is keen to sail with her, she sure runs a tight ship.

But once a year, she docks in Bali for maintenance, and this time, we were lucky enough to be graced by her presence. 

EXPEDITIONS THAT TAKE YOU BACK IN TIME

The event begins with a tour. We are invited to go barefoot, so I kick off my sandals and immediately notice the flawlessly smooth teak deck beneath my feet.

This boat was custom designed, and hand built in collaboration with 15 native Konjo artisans from South Sulawesi using locally-sourced wood like Java teak, Kalimantan iron wood, and a type of hardwood from Papua ‒ materials that are hard to come by these days.

Most iconic of her features though, are her twin masts and eight sails which exude all the charm of an old-world ship.

The Amandira was modelled after a phinisi ‒ a traditional sailboat originating from South Sulawesi ‒ which recently received recognition by UNESCO under their Intangible Cultural Heritage category. “To sail on a very classic boat like this is really like stepping back in time. It’s not like a typical super yacht that is more enclosed and feels like a hotel. We have all these beautiful open outdoor areas, and you actually feel like you're on a ship. That is what makes this journey so special,” explained Stephen Cunningham, Amandira’s cruise director.

Accommodating up to 10 guests, although six is the recommended number for comfort, the yacht features three king suites and two bunk rooms with Aman-style interiors, each with private bathrooms.

Itineraries are completely customisable. History lovers can opt for a Spice Islands voyage to visit the Banda Islands, once the epicentre of the 16th century spice trade. There, remnants of a Dutch colonial fortress stand against a dramatic backdrop of the still-active Gunung Api.

Nature lovers could do a Komodo expedition around the Nusa Tenggara archipelago to snorkel in its colourful reefs, walk along its pink beach, or spot the mighty Komodo dragon.

Then there is Raja Ampat, which abounds with more than 1,000 species of marine life ‒ a snorkeler's and diver’s dream.

It’s the experience of getting up close to a whale shark though, that tops the list for Stephen, himself a divemaster.

“I've seen people crying because it's such a beautiful moment. They look at you quite intensely ‒ almost as if they are studying you,” said Stephen.

‘IT’S BECOMING VERY RARE, AND YOU CAN’T PUT A PRICE ON IT’

By now, we are halfway through the cruise. I run through my notes to check if I am on track for my quest.

Is luxury the ability to fork up US$15,000 (about S$20,551) for each night spent aboard the Amandira? Or the fact that there are 13 crew members at your service, including two private chefs, a spa therapist and your own dive instructor? Is it about owning bragging rights to having commandeered your own floating Aman through destinations that few in the world will ever experience?

I am not sure I have the answer yet, but I put aside my checklist for a moment to enjoy the sea breeze and to try being in the present. Aman, after all, is the Sanskrit word for peace, and I remind myself I am here for the Aman experience.

It is at this moment that Radit Mahindro, Aman’s regional director of marketing, chimes in with his perspective: “To me luxury means something very fundamental, you know, like clean water, clean air, fresh food, authentic human interaction, the ability to focus,” he said.

His words start to ring true. With the hustle and bustle of mainland Bali miles behind us, I realise that the only noise around me is in my head. Suddenly, I’m able to settle into the stillness around us.

“It’s becoming very rare, and you can’t put a price on it”, said Radit.

THE NEW GENERATION OF CURIOUS TRAVELLERS

We are surprised with a sunset dinner before returning to land. Among the spread of dishes is a plate of grilled tuna with the brightest shade of pink I have ever seen, sourced by their onboard chef from a local fishing port, no less.

I have to admit: I never knew tuna was found abundantly in Indonesia’s waters. I have learnt more about this archipelago in the past few hours than any geography class I’ve attended.

For an authentic Aman experience, I’m getting the sense that a bigger part of their ethos is to engage guests in ways that would make them feel connected to the destination they’re in - whether it’s through food or by providing opportunities to learn about its history and culture.

At the Amanjiwo in Central Java, a resident anthropologist conducts lectures on Javanese history at the library ‒ a mandatory facility in all Aman properties. Among his attendees, I hear, include public figures and even royalty who make their way specifically to Java to learn about Borobudur’s mystical history.

It’s a growing trend, especially among the new generation of travellers, this thirst for knowledge, for deeper connections and more authentic experiences, Radit observes.“We think it’s great that people come and engage with local culture, and we are lucky that we have the platform, venues and vehicles to bring them on this journey of discovery. Not just, okay, I come and take pictures,” he said, himself a Java native.  

GUARDIANS OF A CENTURIES-OLD CULTURE

Then there are the Amansantis, or the staff that make up the Aman family. Across Aman’s properties in Indonesia, it’s commonplace for generations of a family to work for Aman.

“We learn a lot from them, because they are the masters of the destination, they know it by heart,” said Radit.

Take the Amandira crew, most of whom are from the very islands that the Amandira sails through.

Jamal is their onboard carpenter from South Sulawesi, a region where the most skilled boat makers are from. To people like him, tending to a boat is second nature.

“Boats need endless love all the time and watching Jamal and the crew care for the Amandira is like watching someone care for their child,” said Stephen.

When making calculations for boat repairs, “they don't even draw or sketch anything out. They do it all in the head… it's a thing of beauty,” he continued.

There is also the story of head waiter Aboy, who spent his childhood helping his father on fishing boats in Sumbawa.

“Out there in the middle of the sea, there were so many different types of fish - even sharks. Once, a big manta ray got stuck in our anchor and almost took us down,” he said.

Despite his love for life at sea, he ended up in hospitality school “for a better future”, as advised by his uncle, who was a security guard at the Amanwana in neighbouring Moyo island.

Aboy too, landed a job there, and eventually came full circle when he was offered this role on the Amandira, one of the most sought-after jobs in the luxury boating community.

“I feel blessed, and I’m proud to show this part of Indonesian culture to the world,” he said.

It’s clear that the Amandira crew put their heart and soul into what they do. To them, it’s more than a job. They’re guardians of a centuries-old culture which they’re proud to show the world, and I count myself lucky to have experienced it.

It’s time to disembark, and I'm feeling a tinge of sadness to be parting. I’ve been given a glimpse into the array of stories and experiences that Indonesia has to offer, and I’m longing to be back for more.

Stephen summed it up this way: “There's a reason why people come back to Indonesia many times once they come to understand how special it is. Not only for its nature, but because of the people as well. It's one of the most welcoming places in the world”.

If that is not luxury, then what is?