Asia’s best bars: Top bartenders in the region on what really keeps customers coming

Bartenders and cocktail aficionados from all over Asia have descended into Hong Kong for the ninth edition of Asia’s 50 Best Bars, which will be unveiled on Jul 16 (Tue). The annual event is highly anticipated, not least because a ranking on the list can have significant impact on a bar’s business and status. Travellers are known to refer to lists like these to suss out the trendiest hangouts, and being on it can shoot smaller players from obscurity into the global spotlight.

VARYING IMPACT

Desiree Jane Silva, co-founder of Singapore’s Sago House, shared that they had seen “a huge impact on reservations and a huge influx” of guests since Sago House was first listed at No. 49 in 2021, barely a year after its opening. The bar has steadily climbed the ranks to reach No. 10 and win the Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award last year.

Rohan Matmery, who is the head bartender at Bar Trigona located in the Four Seasons Hotel Kuala Lumpur, estimated “an approximately 30 per cent increase in the first year, with smaller gains in subsequent years”. The bar debuted on the list in 2019 at No. 40 and became the first Malaysian bar to be ranked on the World’s 50 Best Bars list in 2020. Matmery said: “Business has been thriving. Each time we are featured on the Asia’s 50 Best Bars list, we attract a new wave of customers.”

Even for industry stalwarts like Singapore’s Nutmeg and Clove, which celebrated its tenth anniversary this year and attained its highest ever ranking of No.7 last year, “being recognised by such a prestigious platform undoubtedly boosts our visibility and credibility within the industry and among customers,” said its founder Colin Chia, whose Nutmeg Collective group includes F&B concepts such as Last Word, Draftland and Room0202.

For first-timers on the list, such as Taichung’s Vender and Tokyo’s The Bellwood, business has been brisk with Vender registering a “150 per cent to 200 per cent” jump, said its co-founder Summer Chen. This also poses a challenge for both bar teams, whose staff are mostly not native English speakers. “We’re actively working on bridging that gap to ensure seamless communication and a welcoming experience for everyone who walks though our doors,” said Atsushi Suzuki, founder-bartender of The Bellwood. Chen is organising weekly English lessons for the Vender team and monthly gatherings to help them unwind and connect with each other amid the pressure to keep up service standards.

For others, the impact has been more muted. Kabir Suharan, co-founder and co-owner of Jakarta’s Pantja, which also debuted on the list last year, said: “We noticed a 25 per cent increase in cocktail sales in the two weeks after the announcement, but things drifted back to business-as-usual very soon after.  There were more international travellers visiting after learning about us through the 50 Best list, but from a local perspective it hasn't had much impact.”

There are down sides to the accolade too. Silva said: “Some people come in with very high expectations and Sago House is not a very fancy bar to begin with. They don’t have a bad experience, but they don’t understand why we’re on the list. Some guests also order drinks but don’t consume them after taking photos; they just wanted to say they were there. That breaks my heart the most.”

WANTED: FUN, EASY-GOING AND CRAFTED DRINKS

Emma Sleight, head of content for Asia’s 50 Best Bars, shared that the region’s cautious economic outlook is causing people to look out for “curated and fun yet affordable experiences at their favourite bars”.

She noted that a rising number of bars are spotlighting local spirits and ingredients such as Seoul’s Bar Cham and its new sibling Cham in Season. Both offer cocktails based on Korean spirits infused with local seasonal ingredients. This practice is also echoed in Japan and the rest of Asia, said Suzuki. “It gives guests an exceptional experience and an unforgettable memory to take home. I feel it’s not just a trend; it’s a movement that’s here to stay and evolve.”

Sleight added: “We’re also seeing more experimentation and innovation when it comes to ingredients, techniques and flavours, thanks to the region’s young and dynamic appetite for cocktails.” Case in point: Recent new openings in Hong Kong like The Savory Project, The Kinsman and Dio Cafe Bar, deploy unconventional ingredients such as beef, mushroom, rare Cantonese spirits like yuk bing siu (a spirit made with steamed rice where pork fat is added after distillation) and everyday medicinal remedies like Pi Pa Gao cough syrup. Jon Lee, founder and head bartender of Kuala Lumpur’s Penrose, is seeing the same penchant for savoury cocktails as well as cleaner, more refined flavours. “It seems that guests in Malaysia have developed a preference for subtle, sophisticated tastes over robust and complex cocktails,” he observed.

Classic concoctions remain popular even as the ‘gram generation gravitate towards creative signature drinks. And the thirst for non-alcoholic options continue to warrant entire sections on bar menus.

Noah Yongjin Kwon, co-founder of Seoul’s Zest, said: “Previously, our main customers were people in their 30s and older, now they include more people in their 20s. As a result, there's a stronger preference for signature cocktails over classic ones and for drinks that are easy to enjoy rather than high-proof cocktails.” Another Seoul bar Soko’s bartender-owner Soko Son have noticed that the younger generation prefers highball-style or low-ABV cocktails.

Stefanie Wijono, deputy director of marketing and PR for The Union Group of restaurants and bars in Jakarta, finds that Indonesians are increasingly inclined towards premium tequila and tend to buy bottles of spirits when they go out to bars. However, “one of our main challenges would be the inconsistent supply of spirits, due to the Indonesian alcohol importing quota system that is not easy to navigate. Another challenge would be the country's political instability.” Among the group’s myriad F&B concepts is The Cocktail Club and more recently, Cosmo Pony in partnership with Singapore’s top bar Jigger & Pony.

Sustainability advocates such as Zest, Hong Kong’s Penicillin and Singapore’s Analogue Initiative are still celebrated for balancing the art of a fine tipple with an eye on the environment.

Agung Prabowo, co-owner of Penicillin, said: “There is a growing interest in craft cocktails, sustainability practices and unique flavour combinations. Many guests are increasingly seeking experiential drinking experiences and are more conscious about the origins of their beverages.” Kwon feels that the climate change message is more important than ever. “If the drinking population decreases, we can create a non-alcoholic atmosphere for people to enjoy. But if we run out of ingredients, even those who want non-alcoholic drinks will have nothing to enjoy.”

CREATE CULTURE, NOT FOLLOW TRENDS

While trends like flavour-extraction and minimal waste are commendable, Pantja’s Suharan feels that “trends are temporary, but culture is permanent”.

He explained: “In the past decade many bars have followed the status quo and ‘whatever the market wants’. I’m so pleased to see many new bars in Jakarta expressing their own identity and philosophy in their drinks. The cultural impact of this on Jakarta is tremendous.” He espouses a farm-to-table ethos at Pantja where he works closely with local farmers to develop new dishes and is launching a new cocktail menu this month that pays tribute to unsung bar heroes and past and present female trailblazers.

Other bars have distinguished themselves with a strong food-drink programme that encapsulates the flavours of its city, such as Vender, Sri Lanka’s Smoke & Bitters and Singapore’s Nutmeg & Clove and Analogue Initiative. “While many Taiwanese bars emphasise tea, an integral part of Taiwanese culture, we concentrate on incorporating Southeast Asian herbs and spices into our food and drink pairings,” said Chen.

BACK TO THE BASICS

But what keeps customers returning is still heartfelt hospitality.

David Ong, co-founder of Manila’s Curator, draws a balance between familiarity and creativity in his drinks, which often span the flavour spectrum of savoury, sweet, floral and fruity. He said: “Our guests tell us what they like but they also let us recommend to them. People come back because of our team and the hospitality that we deliver. There’s something in there for everyone.”

Chia pointed out: “In the present landscape, consumers place significant emphasis on both quality and overall experience. Cocktails, though essential, are just one element of a successful experience; excellent service and hospitality play equally vital roles.”

Jay Khan, co-owner of Hong kong’s Coa and The Savory Project, agrees. “More bars are keeping to the basics and spending more time on what really matters — hospitality. You don’t want to create a long list of complicated drinks that take up a lot of preparation time, doesn’t taste very good, and would probably not be ordered more than once.”

Beachfront bar Smoke & Bitters, located in Sri Lanka’s southern coast of Hiriketiya, defies the typical sleek-looking or minimalist 50 Best lister but defines the bar that is an expression of its destination with its rustic setting. Co-owner Don Ranasinghe said: “We’ve always focused on articulating the Sri Lankan F&B experience. We see a back-to-basics approach throughout the industry in Sri Lanka, as well as the rest of Asia, where over-complicated techniques, concepts and menus are stripped back to make going to bars more approachable and fun. Because that’s why we all go to bars in the first place, right?”

THE MISSION BEHIND THE VISION: COMMUNITY BUILDING

More importantly, bars are recognising that the best way to counter perennial staffing challenges is to invest in the talents one already has and be dedicated to their success.

Co-founders Sebastian De La Cruz and Philip Stefanescu encourage their staff to give input on over their Bangkok bar Tropic City’s operational and creative processes. Live music, guest DJs and artists are a regular part of the bar’s programming to bring the wider community together.

Besides running the 10-year-old Curator, Ong also runs a consultancy that mentors bartenders and develops bar concepts, including four new ones in Cebu. He said: “We’re at the stage where we want to share what we know. We look at cocktail capitals like Singapore, Tokyo and Bangkok and ask ourselves how we can be like them and elevate the local bar scene.”

Meanwhile, Lee was part of a committee that launched the inaugural Kuala Lumpur Cocktail Week this year. He said: “Our goal is to elevate the quality of cocktails in Malaysia while maintaining high standards of hospitality and service, especially for the Penrose team.”

Philip Bischoff, who is the beverage ambassador for Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts’ Asia-Pacific region, said: “Having been on the Asian bar scene for nine years, I’ve seen more creativity, consistency, quality and entrepreneurship than ever.

“I believe the biggest goal should be to create a healthy work environment and keep the team engaged, happy and passionate. Create an enjoyable culture for the team and provide growth opportunities. Constantly communicate and explain why we do things the way we do so that everyone is in the loop. That is how we can overcome challenges and stay ahead of the curve.”