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A tour of Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery, the 1-Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant in Penang

Award-winning Penang-based design studio Nevermore gives Aunty Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery a regal transformation.

A tour of Auntie Gaik Lean’s Old School Eatery, the 1-Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant in Penang

The new design concept is inspired by auntie Gaik Lean’s Peranakan heritage. (Photo: The Space Storyteller)

Of the four restaurants awarded a Michelin star in Malaysia’s inaugural outing, Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery stands out. Where three of the restaurants are known as fine dining restaurants, Auntie Gaik Lean’s in Penang is a modest family-run establishment decorated with nostalgic memorabilia. Despite this unassuming environment, the restaurant is an institution on the island. It is known for its authentic and delicious Nyonya dishes presided over by the eponymous chef herself, even before the Michelin nod. Nonetheless, with the spotlight now trained on Auntie Gaik Lean’s, its owners wanted to upgrade the interiors and turned to Nevermore, the award-winning Penang-based interior design firm.

“Auntie Gaik Lean's Old School Eatery opened in 2013 with minimal funding allocated for renovation. This restaurant holds a special significance in my heart, as my family and I have been loyal patrons for nearly a decade,” recalled Chuah Say Yang, Nevermore Group's creative director. “I was thrilled when I received the incredible opportunity to spearhead this project, following their well-deserved Michelin star recognition. It is an opportunity that simply cannot be overlooked.”

Situated in the heart of Georgetown, the 2,640 sq ft lot was formerly a jewellery shop. The project's primary objective is straightforward: An upgrade and to establish a distinctive identity. This involves a layout reconfiguration to extend the shared dining for a VIP room and transforming the existing safe vault into a private cellar.

The restaurant's facade was maintained but refreshed with regal royal blue paint. (Photo: The Space Storyteller)

As for an overarching concept, the designers were inspired by auntie Gaik Lean herself. “Auntie Gaik Lean’s recipes and culinary expertise are the essence and cornerstone of this establishment. She is regarded as culinary royalty within this gastronomic household,” explained Chuah. “In line with this regal theme, we chose royal blue as the primary colour for the restaurant's interior. Furthermore, we incorporated her Peranakan heritage into the design concept development to pay homage to her rich culinary tradition.”

The restuarant's old-school charm was preserved by retaining the existing heritage floor tiles. (Photo: The Space Storyteller)
Artwork by local mural artist Andha Ras graces the main dining hall, including a stylised depiction of auntie Gaik Lean. (Photo: Photo: The Space Storyteller)

While inspiration was readily available, this being an ongoing business, Chuah and his team had a short 20-day timeframe to execute the renovation so as to disrupt business minimally. To compound this, the outlet is located within the UNESCO Heritage Core area, which comes with its own set of restrictions.

Nonetheless, being well organised and prepared triumphed. “We submitted all the required paperwork, adhered to the approved working hours and boundaries established by the local authority council, with the commitment to complete the project within a 20-day timeframe,” said Chuah. The renovation was more a surgery than an overhaul. For starters, the outlet's old-school charm was preserved by retaining the existing heritage floor tiles. The restaurant's facade was maintained but refreshed with regal royal blue paint. To keep the concept's integrity, the designers went to great lengths to source kampung glass in shades of blue and clear. Peranakan panels spray-painted in regal blue with exquisite gold detailing were added to the foyer and VIP room for aesthetic enhancement.

Custom oversized pendant lights, inspired by traditional Peranakan lanterns, were made by local master craftsman Guan. (Photo: The Space Storyteller)
(Photo: The Space Storyteller)

The existing bar counter was relocated and replaced with a custom-made solid wood bar counter. Custom oversized pendant lights, inspired by traditional Peranakan lanterns made by local master craftsman Guan, were installed in the main dining hall. These hang below meticulously crafted custom acoustic panels adorned with an elegant flower motif, which were added on the ceiling to enhance the dining experience and control noise levels.

Interestingly, some decorations that now complete the design have a glamorous origin. “We acquired original props from the Hollywood set of Crazy Rich Asians (specifically, the infamous blossoming Tan Hua scene) through a close friend who is also an ardent collector of antique wood furniture, breathing new life into them as a prominent feature in our VIP dining room,” revealed Chuah. “These props were skilfully stained in dark walnut with delicate gold accents, and our team added intricate details to the solid wood pillar along with laser-cut panels adorned with solid brass hardware. This now serves as a captivating focal point.”

The design team even found original props from the movie Crazy Rich Asians to decorate the restaurant. (Photo: The Space Storyteller)

Artwork by local mural artist Andha Ras graces the main dining hall. Ras  painted stylised depictions of auntie Gaik Lean, blooming flowers and galloping horses by hand. The designers collaborated with a talented wall artist in the VIP room to create faux paintings, lending a rustic and textured touch to the wall treatment.  A custom-made Tok Panjang (the long table where feasts are traditionally eaten in Perakanan households) was crafted by reclaimed wood specialists from Chengal House to seat 12 guests in the VIP room. To finesse the tableau, magnificent floral bouquets in autumnal shades to accent the royal blue theme were put together by Florist Edward from Lervish Flower Couture for the window display.

Considering the intricacy and details in the design, it’s astounding that Chuah and his team completed the renovation in the stipulated 20 days. Unsurprisingly, Chuah reports that the clients, Auntie Gaik Lean and her son, Adrian, who is involved in running the restaurant, are pleased with the overall outcome and exceptional execution. The designer himself is hard-pressed to choose an aspect he particularly loves.

(Photo: The Space Storyteller)
“It’s tough to pick a favourite part as the restaurant area possesses its own distinctive character and unique selling point. We take pride in our ability to craft a space that artfully narrates a compelling story,” he said. “I deeply appreciate every aspect of this restaurant's design. My dedicated team and I invested significant effort into this project. There is nothing about the project that we are not satisfied with.”
Source: CNA/bt
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