A pure Chardonnay: What you need to know about Chablis

Has there ever been a grape variety as divisive as Chardonnay? It invariably draws mixed reactions, from derision to delight, depending on which Chardonnay is served.

New World Chardonnays like those from California and Australia tend to get a lot of unnecessary criticism. Too oaky. Too buttery. There is also ‘ABC: Anything but Chardonnay’, a pithy phrase that became fashionable in wine circles — and ironically even among Chardonnay winemakers — and has overstayed its welcome. These charges levelled at Chardonnay mostly stem from a few trends, namely the white wine’s de facto role as a cheap house pour by the glass in a restaurant, and New World winemakers’ reliance on oak-ageing, which, to be fair, has become less pronounced in recent years as wineries go for leaner styles.

But serve those Chardonnay haters the other Chardonnay, a Chablis — a wine named after a region in northwest Burgundy — and watch them compliment it. Yes, the cynics among you are thinking, Yet another (pretentious?) preference for anything French in the wine world. We don’t deny that most wine lovers have a bias towards the French stalwarts. The choice may or may not be sincere; some wine drinkers do so to fit into a majority group, just like how a watch collector would claim that Rolex is tops even though he secretly favours Omega.

Francophilia aside, there’s good reason why Chablis gets more admiration than its Chardonnay counterparts across the world. First, its terroir is very unique. The vines are planted on Kimmeridgian limestone, a chalky, crumbly soil that dates back to the Jurassic period. This particular earth lends Chablis its distinctive steely, minerally character; a style that wine enthusiasts describe as ‘pure’.

Champagne lovers would be familiar with Kimmeridgian, too — the soil in Chablis extends north-eastwards into Champagne’s southern region of Cote des Bar, where Pinot Noir, instead of Chardonnay, is the dominant grape. Chablis northern location in Burgundy means it has a cooler climate than the rest of the region, allowing Chardonnay to develop more acidity and elegance.

THE FOUR APPELLATIONS OF CHABLIS

Chablis is not to be confused with wines labelled as Bourgogne Chardonnay or Burgundy Chardonnay, which is made in the rest of Burgundy outside the region of Chablis. The main difference between the two is the tendency for Bourgogne Chardonnay to be aged in oak. In Chablis, winemakers try to preserve as much of the wine’s clean flavour as possible by not ageing it in oak (with one exception: Chablis Grand Cru. More on this later).

Celine Jung, deputy group head sommelier of Park90 wine bar, said: “Chablis’ northern location and terroir contribute to [Chardonnay’s] purity and mineral-driven character; you get crisp acidity, flavours of green apple, lemon, and subtle flinty notes. In contrast, the varied terroir of Bourgogne Chardonnay produces wines that range from light and elegant to rich and oak-aged.”

Before you grab a bottle of Chablis from your favourite wine shop, you need to know the four appellations d’origine controlee (AOCs) of Chablis, geographically delimited zones that operate under strict winemaking regulations.

At the lowest AOC — and most affordable — tier, you have Petit Chablis, which can be made in all the 20 communes or villages in the Chablis region. Petit Chablis’ vineyards are usually located on higher slopes, where they can be cold and thus more challenging to ripen grapes. Most of the soil consists of limestone and sand, not the vaunted Kimmeridgian that can be found in the subsequent AOC tiers.

The next AOC tier is the simply named Chablis, where the grapes come from slightly more prestigious vineyards. Unless you have the sharpest of palates, the taste difference between Chablis and Petit Chablis may be hard to pick up.

The second highest appellation, Chablis Premier Cru, is where you would find a marked increase in quality and price. The Premier Cru appellation consists of 40 climats or demarcated vine plots, including 17 main climats. Some of the better known climats include Vaillons, Fourchaume, and Vosgros. A Premier Cru Chablis is allowed to add the name of the climat on its wine label, for example, Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume.

Finally, there is Chablis Grand Cru, which represents just one per cent of the region’s wine production. The appellation comprises seven climats: Blanchot, Bougros, Les Clos, Grenouilles, Preuses, Valmur, and Vaudesir. Like Premier Cru, the name of each Grand Cru climat may appear on the label. Chablis Grand Cru is also where the region’s dogma of ‘no oak’ isn’t strictly followed. Some producers ferment or age their Chablis in oak for a short period to obtain savoury accents. Subtlety is key here: The wood used is neutral or old oak so the wine doesn’t pick up the kind of strong, oaky flavours often found in Chardonnays from the New World.

“Often aged in old oak barrels, Chablis Grand Cru wines develop additional layers of complexity, unveiling nuances of honey, nuts and dried fruits while retaining their hallmark freshness and elegance,” said Jung. “The southeast-facing Les Clos vineyard stands out among the seven climats for its exceptional quality.” She added that Chablis wines typically exhibit a fresh, fruity character that is best enjoyed in younger vintages; however, older Chablis, especially Grand Cru, can develop beautifully over 10 years.

The praise dished out for the higher tier AOCs doesn’t mean you should ignore Petit Chablis and Chablis, though. Justin Wee, chef sommelier of Raffles Hotel Singapore’s La Dame de Pic, noted that while Petit Chablis and Chablis may not always bask in the same limelight as their more esteemed counterparts, they are “hidden gems awaiting discovery”. Because of lesser sun exposure and diverse soil compositions, those wines offer “hallmark traits of lightness, zest, and refreshing acidity”.

When it comes to food pairing, Park90’s Jung would match Petit Chablis with lighter seafood options like grilled shrimp, carpaccio, and oysters on the half shell. Pairing Chablis with spicy seafood dishes like Thai-style shrimp curry or Sichuan-style stir-fry may seem unconventional, she added, but the match is “surprisingly delightful” as the wine provides a “refreshing contrast to the dish’s spiciness”.

For Wee, a surprise pairing is Chablis with Indian cuisine, despite the “common association of spicy foods with fruitier wines”. “I find it pairs beautifully with Murgh Tandoori, a succulent grilled corn-fed chicken breast marinated in garam masala and yoghurt, which we serve at our Tiffin Room.”

CNA Luxury picks four Chablis wines to add to your cellar.

WILLIAM FEVRE, CHABLIS GRAND CRU LES CLOS 2020

One of the biggest names in Chablis, William Fevre owns 70 hectares of vineyards in the region, including 15.9 hectares of Premier Cru vineyards and 15.2 hectares of Grand Cru plots. Made from Chardonnay from Les Clos — Chablis’ largest Grand Cru climat — this Grand Cru spent five to six months on lees in French oak barrels. It offers floral and spicy notes, good acidity, and a minerally character.

S$195, from 1855 The Bottle Shop 

LOUIS JADOT, CHABLIS PREMIER CRU FOURCHAUME 2021

A negociant (merchant) and grower, the famous Maison Louis Jadot controls more than 200 hectares of vineyards across Burgundy. Chablis wines aren’t exactly top of mind when one mentions Louis Jadot — the company’s Pinot Noir offerings tend to dominate reviews — but they are well regarded by Chablis lovers for their consistent quality. The Premier Cru Fourchaume has a floral bouquet with notes of lemon, honeysuckle, thyme, and hazelnuts.

S$120, from Culina 

Founded in 1815, Domaine Billaud-Simon is known for making crystalline, mineral-driven wines. The 2021 was considered a classic vintage that showcased the region’s crisp acidity. The Premier Cru Les Vaillons flaunts a golden hue, an inviting floral scent, ripe citrus notes, and a linear finish.S$150, from Grand Vin 

One of Chablis’ young, up-and-coming winemakers, Vincent Dampt created his own estate in 2004 after winemaking stints in Burgundy and New Zealand’s Marlborough region. Made from young Chardonnay vines (average age of 10 years), the Petit Chablis is aged on its lees in stainless steel tanks for six months. This is a very clean, supple and fresh wine that would complement your cold cuts and oysters.

S$61, from Angra Wine & Spirit