Dragons, diving hotspots and designer villas: Why Labuan Bajo could be Indonesia’s next great escape

Sunsets in Labuan Bajo hit different. Here, on the western edge of Flores, Indonesia, the molten gold disc dips below the horizon, daubing the sky in brilliant shades of vermillion, crimson and salmon. The colours bleed into one another like secrets too beautiful to keep. Occasionally, billows of dark grey clouds frame the spectacle and heighten the contrast.

I’m admiring nature’s theatrics from an enviable perch: The Nera Lounge in TA’AKTANA, a 70-key Marriott-run luxury resort that clings to the side of a hill. Appropriately enough, “nera” means “red” in the local Manggarai language.

Labuan Bajo is fairly well known among nature-loving, outdoorsy types – divers, cave explorers, jungle trekkers – as the gateway to Komodo National Park. But the arrival of TA’AKTANA, the town’s first international, five-star hospitality marque in 2024 ushered in a new era, welcoming honeymooners chasing romantic escapes, affluent families who want the Komodo experience without roughing it, and wellness seekers who want barefoot beauty with five-star polish.

It speaks to a discerning crowd accustomed to global standards in finery. For athletes on retreat, the resort boasts the island’s only Olympic-sized pool; a hot tub and cold plunge in the spa; and kayaks designed for professional racers. For mixology mavens, there’s Maiga! Bar, which recently hosted Nico de Soto, the man behind Paris’ Danico (No. 49 on The World’s Best Bars list).

All this in a pocket-sized town of about 7,000 souls. A drive through the town, which hugs the curvaceous coastline, reveals a clean, well-maintained settlement that echoes the Bali of yesteryear: Streets lined with cafes, restaurants, small boutiques, homestays, dive shops, vehicle rentals, and tour operators. Very charming, made all the more so by the joyful, carefree attitude of the locals.

Clarissa Eckold, 32, a yoga instructor who visited in 2018, said that her first impression then was that “the city area was not great, [it] felt a bit stale”. But much has changed since then, thanks to the Indonesian government’s efforts to develop alternative destinations to Bali to solve overcrowding.

William Tan, 39, a commercial director who holidayed here in 2025, shared: “I visited [Labuan Bajo] many years ago. I’m just amazed at the [current] development and ease of travel.” The launch of Jetstar’s twice-weekly direct flight to and from Singapore in March 2025 gave the town a shot in the arm; following the cessation of the airlines’ Asian operations in July, Scoot will fill the void from October.

The Jetstar flight brought travellers like Tan and Andy Joshua Lim, 46, a creative manager whose itinerary included three full days of diving. He enjoyed “exploring the sights of Komodo National Park, Cunca Pilas waterfall and Rangko Cave”, as well as observing “reef sharks, octopi, manta rays, green turtles and scorpionfish” on his dives.

FRONTIER SPIRIT BUT MAKE IT LUXE

The drive to TA’AKTANA takes less than 10 minutes from the airport. Construction sounds can be heard reverberating across the bay as more hospitality players enter the fray. Ayana paved the way for luxury stays when it opened in 2018; brands like Plataran and Katamaran followed. TA’AKTANA positions itself at the very top of the luxury heap. Given its scale and variety of accommodation, it’s hard to dispute this.

The resort sprawls across 16 hectares – that’s more than 22 football fields – and encompasses 45 suites, 17 garden or pool villas, seven overwater villas, and a three-bedroom mansion with a pool. Entry-level suites clock in at 70 sq m (753 sq ft, or about the size of a three-room HDB flat) and cost Rp 8 million (US$490; S$632) per night. Not exactly chump change, but a value proposition in comparison to resorts in Bali.

Overwater villas aren’t common in this part of Indonesia, but, as general manager Peter-Paul Kleiss asserted, it wasn’t merely about bringing a new level of luxury to Labuan Bajo; it was about creating an experience that connects guests to their surroundings.

“The Overwater Sea Villas are inspired by the traditional Mbaru Niang stilt houses of the Manggarai people. They float above calm waters, allowing guests to feel immersed in nature – from sunrise over the islands to the gentle sounds of the sea below,” he said.

My travel companion and I were there in the high season (July to September), and occupancy is above 70 per cent. Most of the visitors, said Kleiss, are multigenerational families from Indonesia, China, Singapore, the US and UK, travelling for leisure. “We’re also seeing exciting growth from Australia, Germany, Switzerland, Italy and Malaysia.”

We stayed in a 100 sq m One Bedroom Villa, which has a living and dining area; bedroom with king-sized bed; bathroom with twin vanities, a bathtub, shower and walk-in-wardrobe; a small pantry and a powder room. Outdoors, there’s a pool and wraparound terrace that extends from the pool deck to the living and dining areas as well as the bedroom.

It’s luxurious but not overdone, with thoughtful touches along the way. In the wardrobe, sunhats are provided in addition to tote bags. There’s a steam iron in case your silken eveningwear needs touching up. Power sockets are conveniently located by the bedside. And a drying rack sits on the outdoor deck, ready to receive your swimwear or other laundered items.

A STRONG SENSE OF PLACE

Ambling around the resort, it becomes clear that the owner – who prefers to remain anonymous – has great taste and a strong sense of national pride. Art and artefacts from Nusantara, the Indonesian archipelago, are liberally sprinkled throughout. These are juxtaposed alongside sculptures made of recycled plastic, a nod to environmental consciousness and the importance of preserving Labuan Bajo’s fragile ecosystem.

Bali and Singapore-based designer Alvin Jo of A&P Interior adroitly captures the essence of Flores’s natural beauty and cultural wealth. Buildings sport distinctive conical thatched roofs reminiscent of traditional Manggarai village huts, rooting the resort in local heritage. Carved timber, volcanic stone, and handwoven textiles speak to the island’s topography and artisanal inclination.

Authenticity isn’t easy to find these days, but TA’AKTANA delivers it in spades. Elements of local culture are subtly woven into your stay – not shoved in your face or down your throat. The coffee served at breakfast (a heady, aromatic mix of Arabica and Robusta) grows on the island; to deepen your experience, you can opt for a coffee roastery session at the resort’s cafe, where staff will give you a crash course on local coffee culture. Most of the coffee, I’m told, is only for domestic (Flores) consumption – so drink your fill while you’re here, and pack some to go.

Another unique local ingredient is sopi, an alcoholic drink made by distilling the fermented sap of palm fruits. The resulting liquor is sweet, clear and strong (alcohol content: 30 to 50 per cent ABV) with an aroma of overripe fruit. Traditionally drunk at local graduations and weddings, the staff at Maiga! Bar serve it in cocktails – or you can do a deep dive with a sopi masterclass, where the head bartender will guide you in making your own sopi cocktail.

“Labuan Bajo is still developing as a destination, and that’s part of its charm. At the same time, our guests arrive with five-star expectations, and it’s our responsibility to meet them without compromising the soul of the place,” explained Kleiss. “We invest in rigorous training for our team, many of whom come from the local community, to deliver service that feels both world-class and warmly personal.”

AN ALL-INCLUSIVE RESORT, REDEFINED

With seven F&B outlets on-site, you technically never have to leave. One evening we had a sumptuous Rantang (tiffin) dinner at Umasa, the Indonesian eatery, washed down with a coffee-based cocktail; another night we dined on freshly caught seafood sashimi and ceviche at Taba, the contemporary Japanese restaurant, before enjoying live music and drinks at Maiga! Bar.

On weekends, the resort’s tiny stretch of beach transforms into a mini-Jimbaran at twilight – except cosier and more private. On offer: Grilled seafood, Singapore laksa, and sweet treats like Bandung es doger, savoured with sand between your toes and stars overhead. If you’re feeling peckish at any time, the all-day dining venue Leros has got you covered.

The amenities on offer also make TA’AKTANA self-contained. Families can easily spend the entire day by the pool, flitting back and forth between the Kids Club and the small beach. Honeymooners might want to sidle up to the pool bar for Palomas and selfies before indulging in self-care with a couple’s massage at the wellness centre.

If you’re athletically inclined, take advantage of the resort’s range of watersports – it’s free for guests, and available at the jetty pier. There’s stand-up paddleboarding, water biking, kayaking and snorkelling. The latter is great for beginners and kids – the waters are calm and clear, with a depth of around five metres. Morning (about 9am to 10am) is best: You’ll see schools of fish darting about the reef as they feed. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a green sea turtle.

ADVENTURE BECKONS

Not far from the resort, you can do a 20-minute trek up to Bukit Amelia for sunrise/sunset vistas, or go cave-exploring. Two that come highly recommended are Batu Cermin Cave (Goa Batu Cermin), a 15-minute drive away, which features shimmery, mirror-like surfaces from calcite deposits; and Rangko Cave (Goa Rangko), a 30-minute drive away, which has a striking blue pool that seems made for Instagram.

We decided on a half-day excursion to Komodo National Park by boat. The park isn’t limited to a single island – in fact it sprawls across three big islands and dozens of smaller ones. And yes, Komodo dragons live on the big three. Unfortunately for us, two of the three – Komodo (famous for its pink beach) and Padar (famous for its iconic shaped hills) – were off-limits on the day of our visit for safety reasons. Strong winds from Australia created rough sea conditions and large waves, and as a precaution, the government issued a temporary advisory.

But all was not lost. Hopping aboard the Buena Ventura, the resort’s own four-engine, three-man crew, we sped towards Pulau Kelor with our guide. The tiny island is famed for its turquoise waters – we spotted baby reef sharks – and a short (10 minutes) but steep hike to the summit, where stunning panoramic views awaited.

We were not disappointed: From the peak, we were treated to scenes reminiscent of the Aegean: Hilly islands stretching as far as the eye can see, small boats dotted across azure waters, and Pulau Kelor’s own coral reef and white sand beach.

Pulau Rinca was our next stop. Home to the Loh Buaya Komodo National Park, this was where we observed the iconic reptiles in their natural habitat. Designed like a mini safari, the park had boardwalks, well-marked trails, open plains, hills, and wooded expanses. Visitors must be accompanied by official guides, each one wielding a big wooden stick in case things got wild.

We spotted at least 10 of them (total population on the island: About 1,500) of varying ages and sizes, the biggest being around 3m long. A short, easy hike up to the island’s summit gave us stunning views of the landscape. It recalled the African savannah with its rolling hills, gold-tinted grassland, and pockets of denser vegetation.

With Komodo Island’s pink beach off the menu, our guide took us to a lesser known, but just as impressive, natural wonder called Strawberry Rocks. This was a rocky outcrop that sported swirling patterns in vivid shades of pink, lavender, brown and beige – not unlike a marble cake. Getting there was no mean feat, however.

With no jetty available, we had to leap off the front of the Buena Ventura and onto the outcrop itself. Then it was a steep and treacherous climb up to the top, loose pebbles underfoot and jagged rock edges adding to the challenge. In the end it was worth the effort: The stark contrast between the pink rocks, blue sea, and green vegetation was surreal and unforgettable.

BEYOND THE DRAGONS AND DIVE SITES

“Flores has so much to offer beyond its waters,” maintained Kleiss. “And many of these land-based experiences remain beautifully under-the-radar. One of my personal favourites is exploring traditional Manggarai villages, where guests can witness ikat weaving firsthand and learn how these intricate patterns tell stories passed down through the generations.

“Watching the sun rise over volcanic lakes like Kelimutu is equally transformative – it’s a reminder of nature’s artistry and the spiritual significance it holds for local communities.”

For travellers considering a trip to Labuan Bajo, don’t be obsessed with following your planned itinerary. Volcanoes might erupt, causing flight disruptions. Or the seas might be too rough for sailing, snorkelling or diving. The travellers we spoke to also had other practical tips.

“Pre-planning the trip is important,” shared Eckold. “I would recommend starting off with a day package exploring all the nearby islands briefly, and then deciding on revisiting any.” For Tan, suncare essentials are paramount. “For hiking, a certain fitness level is required and the sun can be quite intense, so don’t forget to bring a hat and apply sunscreen before the hike.”

Lim, meanwhile, urged visitors to be environmentally minded. “Travel light, and do not take anything from Komodo National Park, whether corals, pink sand or wildlife. Your bags will be thoroughly scanned and [such items] will be confiscated by airport security.”

As for whether Labuan Bajo has the potential of being the next Bali or Lombok, Eckold said yes. “But I don’t want it to be the next Bali or Lombok, because it’s so pristine. Some places deserve to stay unspoiled, away from the crowds of mass tourism.”

The writer was at Labuan Bajo at the invitation of TA’AKTANA.