Why Vilnius and Riga should feature on your eastern Europe travel plans

Two historic capital cities offering cobblestoned medieval streets, proud culture, a compelling dining scene and some of the best value travel in Europe are now linked by a sleek new train that connects them in just under four hours.

Vilnius and Riga may not feature at the top of many European city break lists, but both are easily accessible from Asia through Middle Eastern carriers or via other capitals such as London, Berlin and Paris.

We started in the Lithuanian capital of Vilnius, an EU member since 2004. Lithuania was founded back in 1253 and boasts a proud history and fierce independence – in the 14th century, it was one of the most powerful states and largest countries in Europe, extending from the Baltic to the Black Sea.

That history is writ large in the charming, historic capital, one where almost two million visitors every year tread its medieval laneways. Seemingly at every turn there’s a Baroque church, unsurprisingly given that 75 per cent of the country are Roman Catholic – the only Baltic nation to hold this distinction, as Latvia and Estonia are both majority Lutheran. Intriguingly, however, the Baltic states were the last remaining pagan counties in Europe, with Lithuania holding out until 1387 as the last country formerly baptised into Christianity.

Among 55 churches, by far the most stunning is the Cathedral Basilica of St Stanislaus and St Ladislaus of Vilnius, overlooking the four-square kilometre UNESCO-listed Old Town. Built on the site of a former pagan temple, it features an extraordinarily ornate Italian baroque chapel housing the coffin of St Casimir, a saint who has another beautiful church dedicated to him in a 17th-century former Jesuit monastery.

Unusually, the cathedral’s 57-metre-high bell tower, dating back to the city’s foundation, stands separately in front of the cathedral and is one of the symbols of Vilnius. Another is Gediminas Castle Tower sitting atop a hill which affords it by far the best views across the city. It’s a short but steep 10-minute walk uphill from the Cathedral, but a funicular is another option.

One of the joys of visiting Vilnius is that it is eminently walkable, so wandering the ancient streets of the Old Town which are filled with cafes and boutiques, restaurants and galleries, makes for perfect people watching.

Vilnius University, one of the oldest in Central Europe, is well worth a visit and the city’s 50,000 students – out of a population of just 600,000 – imbue it with a youthful dynamism.

A stroll down Gediminas Avenue, Vilnius’ main street, means perusing multiple stores, including a number selling amber. The fossil resin dating back millions of years is found in great quantities across the Baltic and is crafted into elegant jewellery, while another popular take-home is beautiful local linen.

The five-star Radisson Collection Astorija Hotel was a perfect base, sat within easy walking distance of everywhere you’d want to visit – but even if limbs became weary, the ride-hailing Bolt – there’s no Uber in Lithuania – barely reached more than €4 (US$4.35, S$5.80)for any trip. The hotel’s expansive rooms and suites are elegantly decorated to reflect the Art Nouveau exterior, while their Brasserie offers excellent dining experiences and their top-tier Junior Suites start from just SG$380 (US$285) per night.

The next morning with Lukas Misiunas, an English-speaking city guide, revealed fascinating and occasionally gruesome stories of Vilnius’ many layers of history. The former market square for example, today outside the city’s elegant Town Hall, was for centuries the scene of popular public beheadings.

We wandered the Jewish quarter together, a formerly vibrant district as Lithuania was always historically tolerant of other religions – Napoleon even called Vilnius ‘The Jerusalem of the north’, thanks to thousands of Ashkenazi Jews who had made it home. Ultimately, more than 200,000 of them died in the Holocaust and moving art installations on local walls remind passers-by of some of the faces who once lived there.

Another spot was Hales Market, dating from 1906, where stalls groaned under a variety of local produce, despite our visit coming in winter. Foremost among them, pork in myriad forms, often smoked in strings of sausages or wedges of lardo for frying, but also air-dried. Generally, it was older ladies who tended the stalls, proffering tastes at every turn, whether from buckets of vibrant pickles or incredible local honeycomb from Lithuania’s extensive forests. Indeed, foraging is not only legal but positively encouraged, as seen in a number of meals at local restaurants.

The Michelin Guide have already bestowed their coveted stars on Latvia but not, as yet, in Lithuania. Regardless, a burgeoning dining landscape is taking diners in interesting new directions, even if the joke is that Lithuania’s national dish is ‘potatoes with potatoes’.  It’s certainly true that they make regular appearances on menus, especially in Zeppelin dumplings, so named for their elongated size.

In a charming 18th-century building near the university, Ertlio Namas celebrates historical Lithuanian cuisine through a contemporary lens. Chef Tomas Rimydis oversees a dinner tasting menu that starts with rye bread with poppy seed and yeast butter, before dishes including a zander and carrot mousse – zander being a popular game fish, like a perch – then beetroot soup with lamb and mushroom dumplings, finishing with veal accompanied by parsley puree, turnips and apple sauce.

An historic restaurant famed for its game dishes, Lokys serves up hearty, carnivore-driven plates which celebrate the country’s produce. The ‘Lokys House Regale’ was an epic plate of boar, game sausage, venison – and beaver. The history of eating beaver – which tastes just like a slightly gamier pulled pork – came about as Catholics deemed it a fish, allowing them to eat it during the holy period of Lent. The restaurant’s remarkable ancient wine cellars are well worth a visit and make for atmospheric and romantic dining spaces.

Finally, to a popular new spot, a food hall in a light-filled atrium called Paupio Turgus. Surrounded by tech and travel companies, it’s a popular option for business lunches but also people popping in for everything from local beers and spirits to pizza or yakitori, dumplings to pan-Asian dishes.

Getting from Vilnius to Riga, the capital of neighbouring Latvia, has just become much smoother thanks to the recent launch of a new international route linking the two countries. It’s a frankly brilliant travel experience, starting in the spotless Vilnius train station, built in socialist realism style. On board the train, a first-class ticket cost just €30 (US$33, S$44) for a four-hour journey through the Baltic countryside. Coffee and excellent brownies are included and brought to your seat, while the Wi-Fi speed would put most train companies to shame.

One of the joys of train travel is how it deposits you in the heart of a city, as in the Latvian capital, Riga. It’s just a five-minute taxi ride to the five-star Grand Palace Hotel, a true icon of the city’s hospitality landscape and a member of Leading Hotels of the World. Originally built in 1877 as Latvia’s Central Bank, it was turned into a boutique hotel in 2000 and continues to draw a discerning local and international clientele to the heart of Riga's historic Old Town and its UNESCO World Heritage monuments.

Riga was built from 1201 by Germans crusaders who forcibly converted the local pagan population to Christianity. The city’s main Cathedral, built from 1211, is Latvia’s biggest medieval church features a remarkable array of architecture, from Romanesque to Gothic, Baroque and even Art Nouveau. One unmissable experience is an organ concert, taking place every weekday at midday, while sturdy limbs will enjoy the 217-step climb up to the tower.

Unsurprisingly, the cathedral sits in the heart of the Old Town, Vecriga, alongside landmarks such as St. Peter's Church and the House of the Blackheads, named after a 16th-century guild of craftsmen. Wandering the streets with multi coloured houses and warehouses is a lovely way to spend a few hours, while free city tours are also available – although tips are understandably expected.

Another unmissable sight is the iconic Freedom Monument from 1935, a symbol of Latvia's independence commemorating those who fought for the nation's freedom, while around Alberta Street, the Art Nouveau District is also rich in architecture with elegant, intriguing facades and details the work of famed architects including Mikhail Eisenstein.

One Riga attraction that really wowed was the Central Market which, remarkably, is one of Europe’s largest, thanks to the vast buildings’ former roles as hangars for Zeppelin airships. There are impressive arrays of seafood, meats, cheeses, yoghurts and honeys, while the fragrance coming from stalls covered in dill and other herbs is striking.

As with its Baltic neighbours, traditional Latvian cuisine tends to be hearty with plates like potato pancakes and grey peas with bacon – far more appetising than it sounds. The arrival of The Michelin Guide has seen the dining scene grow in scope and renown, however, including one spot which blew us away.

Michelin awarded Shoyu a bib gourmand, a seriously impressive distinction at any time, but especially so given that its local chef Jevgenij Rimash has never been anywhere near Japan – but still manages to pull off stunning bowls of ramen.

Following perfectly executed gyoza, the Ichiran Tonkotsu ramen was a brilliant bowl to counteract the chill outside, filled with the finest imported ingredients. It explains why reservations are crucial for the tiny spot sitting a 20-minute walk from downtown.

Other dining options include Alaverdi, home to beautiful Georgian dishes such as dolma, vibrant salads and the decadent cheese bread called Khachapuri, but for local flavours, it was difficult to beat Folkklubs ala Pagrabs.

As the name suggests, it’s a live music venue for local bands and singers, but the cavernous space in lofty former wine cellars can also seat hundreds of diners. From the extensive menu, I was recommended the meatballs, sauerkraut, sour cream and roast potatoes – a great way to farewell the Baltics.