Staying in a 'floating ryokan' in Japan: Can travelling with a bespoke agency make a trip better?

The ship’s horn sounds, indicating we are about to set sail. Up on the top deck of the elegantly minimalist Guntu – a “floating ryokan” that plies the Seto Inland Sea – passengers have gathered to enjoy the picturesque scenery as the ship pulls away from its home dock at the Bella Vista Marina in Hiroshima, Japan.

But unlike the air of cordial politeness that one might expect among a group of strangers who happen to be voyaging on the same vessel, the atmosphere feels more like a reunion of old friends.

Champagne corks pop in the background as passengers clink flutes and enthusiastically catch up with each other. Even I – a solo traveller – spotted several familiar faces I had travelled with previously.

This congenial cruise vibe is not by chance but rather by the design of its organisers, bespoke travel company Intriq Journey.

With its reflective gray-silver exterior that reflects the inky blue waters of the inland sea, it is easy to see why this striking sea craft is a bucket-list destination for the well-heeled. Yet, the Yashushi Horibe-designed luxury vessel is also notoriously difficult to secure passage on, in part because there are only 19 rooms, each of which come with enviably indulgent sea views.

So, to solve this supply shortage for its eager clientele, Intriq chartered the entire ship for one of its newly launched Intriq Signatures luxury small group tours.

With group sizes capped at just 16, this concept aims to make even the most elusive experiences (like a highly coveted two-night cruise on a floating hotel) more accessible to its travellers.

This is how I found myself, at the invitation of Intriq to experience how a small group trip can actually elevate one’s journey, happily exchanging travel adventures with past travel companions and also new friends I had just been introduced to.

Right away, I am struck by the value add-factor of being among experienced globetrotters, many of whom have previously travelled with Intriq on bespoke trips. Comprising travellers mostly from the region including Singapore, Hong Kong and Indonesia across a range of ages from working millennials to comfortably retired businessmen and professionals, it is clear most of us have visited Japan multiple times over the years.

No surprises then that the conversation is excellent, as are their travel tips that I hastily try to memorise for future travels. For instance, a couple with an affinity for Japanese artisanal crafts recount their tales of visiting car museums and brush factories. I bond with another traveller who has vast experience visiting independent ryokans across Japan and has a passion for the local seafood.

Additionally, besides benefiting from economies of scale, such as organising private charters or engaging guides who are experts in their fields, a travel concierge also accompanies the group on every Intriq Signatures trip. The role of this specialist is to smooth out small travel issues that may arise and to watch out for the travellers’ well-being. For example, our travel concierge gives us Vitamin C supplements and somehow manages to procure an eyewash when I mention an eye irritation that has been plaguing me.

Minor snafu averted, I can concentrate on more important things, like savouring the nosh on board the Guntu (pronounced: Gan-tsu) which is excellent and devised to take one on a culinary journey during the sailing. Focused on the best seasonal ingredients sourced from the Setouchi region, there is impossibly fresh catch from the Seto Inland Sea, where much of Japan’s seafood is sourced from as well as melt-in-your-mouth wagyu and locally produced somen noodles and Shodoshima island grown olives.

The ingredients can then be prepared in just about every way imaginable from being slow grilled on a binchotan to being simmered in a flavourful soup stock. There is also crisp tempura, moreish stews and of course, sushi or sashimi. That said, the latter is probably best enjoyed at the ship’s cosy six-seater sushi bar, which is helmed by a chef who has trained with sushi master Nobuo Sakamoto of the sushi restaurant Nobu at Awajishima.

Cuisine aside, the meticulously constructed ship emulates a ryokan through its interior design. For example, up to five different types of local wood were used to create the wood-panelled interiors reminiscent of classic Japanese architecture. (Fun fact: Due to potential fire hazards, the shipbuilders had to get special approval to use so much wood on a ship and incorporate additional safety measures during the construction.)

A personal favourite is the open air ofuro bath with hinoki cypress tubs that offer sweeping views of the inland sea. It is undoubtedly a magical way to enjoy the panorama of the open waters.

One essential element of a cruise is of course its day excursions that allow guests to stretch their legs, shake off cabin fever and be immersed – however briefly – in the local environment. To ensure this voyage would be unique to Intriq, the team specially crafted an itinerary to include stops at lesser known islands.

For instance, instead of stopping at the more famous “art islands” of Naoshima and Teshima, we anchored at Inujima. With a population of about 30 people, this island has been given a new lease of life through the conversion of an old copper refinery into the Inujima Art Museum, which is part of the Benesse Art Site Naoshima. The latter is of course arguably best known for its giant pumpkin sculptures by artist Yayoi Kusama, which are displayed on the island of Naoshima.

In contrast, on Inujima, the element of surprise is on our side since no one has been here before. We are merely told it is meant to be a commentary on industrialisation and modernisation. But until we walk through an unlit, winding underground passageway with our only source of illumination from a single rooftop skylight reaching us due to the ingenious placement of multiple mirrors, this theme is perhaps too large and abstract to grasp.

Maybe, I ponder, this is about how our basic needs, like light, can already be found in nature and that the trappings of technology are often extraneous. After this moving visit, our chatty group is uncharacteristically silent as we ponder deep thoughts.

Luckily, there are two more nights to go after we (reluctantly) disembark the Guntu. To complement this contemporary, floating hotel experience, the next leg of our trip takes us to Sekitei, a traditional ryokan in Hatsukaichi, Hiroshima which has been awarded 5 Red Pavillions on the Michelin Guide.

A 40-minute drive from Hiroshima city, this picturesque ryokan is situated atop a hill at the edge of the inland sea and overlooks the iconic Miyajima Shrine known for its “floating” red torii gate – though we are admittedly too far to see it clearly.

Unlike the communal vibes of the cruise, this is a much more private stay with intricately plated kaiseki meals served in the rooms. This allows one the headspace to emulate the Japanese penchant for quiet contemplation and to savour the fleeting beauty of the passing microseasons, like the flowers at the peak of the bloom in early summer.

But, I quickly realise while all this solitude is nice, having fellow travellers to share in these experiences is priceless too. So the next morning, I am genuinely happy when another traveller invites herself to my table while I savour my elaborate Japanese breakfast. Clearly, she feels the same way too.