How Royal Mansour Marrakech is taking Moroccan gastronomy to the next level

On Sep 8, 2023, the serenity of the Atlas Mountains in Morocco was shattered. The devastating 6.8 magnitude earthquake left a trail of destruction, ravaging ancient buildings and disrupting the agricultural heartbeat of the region. Local staples like figs, olives, saffron, navel oranges, and dates were suddenly cut off, threatening livelihoods and the culinary fabric of the nation.

In the lush valleys where these ingredients are harvested, the quake not only damaged farmlands but also the supply chains that feed into the kitchens of Morocco and beyond. Markets that once buzzed with crowds, where fresh vegetables, aromatic spices and oils are traded, stood silent.

Yet amid this devastation, Royal Mansour Marrakech, a grand property fashioned after a sprawling medina emerged with a revitalised mission: To renew its commitment to work with local communities and catapult Moroccan gastronomy to greater heights.

In those early days following the quake, the hotel came to the nation’s aid. “Our attention is on how to help and support the local communities,” said Jean-Claude Messant, managing director of Royal Mansour Marrakech in a video on the hotel’s instagram feed. “All those villages in the Atlas Mountains were provided with food, medical equipment and clothing along with the help and guidance of the local authorities.”

Six months later, we saw a vibrant recovery in progress during a visit. Royal Mansour now also serves as a linchpin in the advancement of the local and national gastronomic scene, exporting its culinary ideas through its restaurants and even a cooking school. And it’s doing all this by working with rural growers and prioritising local produce — thereby aiding the country with a smooth recovery and helping the agricultural community it relies upon find its feet.

THE TASTE OF MOROCCO

The goal may seem like an abstract one, but food is an integral part of every culture. In a world that’s hyper literate on facets of European and now even Asian cuisine, Morocco’s gastronomy is often overlooked and summarised to merely tagines.

While the conical clay pots and slow cooking are indeed a big part of Moroccan cuisine, it is only the tip of the iceberg. At Royal Mansour, every gastronomic juncture is a study of the country’s culinary tapestry. And why not? The kingdom boasts beautiful ingredients grown and sourced from its vast topographic landscapes. There are blue seas to the north, fertile lands where fat grapes dangle precariously off vines and juicy oranges that beg to be plucked off their branches.

During teatime one sunny afternoon at La Grande Brasserie, the hotel’s French restaurant, huge olive branches swayed in the breeze. A suited server beamed as he wheeled over a trolley lined with jams, preserves, and amlou — a Moroccan almond, honey, and argan oil spread.

“All our jams are made here at the hotel, using only local ingredients,” he announced to the table.

Jerome Videau, Royal Mansour’s executive chef explained: “Ninety per cent of the ingredients are sourced locally for the majority of our restaurants and bars. This connection with our food system is particularly important to the Royal Mansour team at a time when the health of our planet is at such great risk. It also reflects our commitment to the local food network and sustainable practices.”

The path to igniting guest’s interest in Morocco’s food culture comes in many forms. One way is by weaving in local ingredients or culinary elements into well-known favourites.

The Paris Brest served during teatime  — a classic French dessert where choux pastry is filled with praline, cream and topped with almond flakes — is reinterpreted with the addition of amlou, which lifts the sweet ensemble with its dark, toasty notes. Another French classic, the Tarte Tropezienne where brioche is filled with cream is accented with the scent of orange blossoms, redolent of the orange flowers that bloom throughout Morocco in spring.

These were conceived under the direction of decorated French chef Helene Darroze who has multiple Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris, London and Provence. Since August 2023, she has led the transformation of La Grande Brasserie at Royal Mansour, injecting French savoir faire into the menu and service while maintaining a deep respect for Morocco’s farmers and growers.

“I take the time to develop true relationships with the local producers and I have clearly discovered an incredible abundance of fruits and vegetables, lamb, fish and seafood products,” she said in a press statement.

AN ODE TO A KINGDOM

Thoughtfully executed as these dishes are, nowhere on the property is an ode to the food culture of Morocco seen more than at its flagship restaurant, La Grande Table Marocaine. Here, well-loved dishes are interpreted through the culinary acumen of chef Karim Ben Baba who oversees the restaurant.

“I draw inspiration from my ancestors’ traditions, bringing them up to date, without ever compromising them,” he said. “I am proud of my heritage and of the Moroccan terroir richness that I try to enhance through reformulated old recipes.”

Chef Karim would have plenty to draw from. Moroccan cuisine weaves together the nation's history, culture, and communal values, embodying a rich blend of Arab, Berber, French, and Spanish influences. It also showcases geographic diversity as Morocco is a sprawling country that has snow-capped terrain in the Atlas Mountains, the arid Sahara desert and a Mediterranean coastline to the north.

“By the coast, we find a large variety of fish recipes while Berber regions’ popular dish is the tagine,” he said. “Fez is known for its rich Andalusian-influenced culinary heritage and the Pigeon Pastilla is the best example — even if historians are not clear about its origin and whether it is Andalusian or not.”

Indeed, each course was easily the highest expression of Moroccan cuisine. Fish, served whole which seems so far removed from the arid environs of Marrakech, was deliciously fresh, and succulent. Prawns which came in a petite bowl with onions and tomatoes had a crunchy bite and redolent of the sea. These came from Agadir, said the server, a major city that sits on the shores of the Atlantic Ocean, and the herb garnishes were grown from the hotel’s very own gardens.

“La Grande Table Marocaine celebrates the refined flavours and captivating perfumes of Morocco,” explained chef Karim. “This signature restaurant has brought tagines, pastilla, couscous and many other dishes that are exquisite symbols of the Kingdom, to their pinnacle of perfection.”

These exceptional culinary efforts have not gone unnoticed and in fact, are handsomely rewarded.

La Grande Table Marocaine's commitment to quality, authenticity, and innovation in Moroccan dining has earned it the 27th spot on the prestigious list of the Middle East and North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants. This accolade is a recognition of the restaurant's role in not only championing Moroccan cuisine but also elevating it on the international stage, making it a beacon for Moroccan culture.

GLOBALISING IDEAS ONE GUEST AT A TIME

Beyond simply offering a venue for dining, Royal Mansour is expanding its culinary horizons with cooking workshops for guests. The recent launch of a cooking school embodies this new direction. More than a learning facility, this school serves as a space where home cooks and aspiring chefs can experience the nuances of putting together a Moroccan meal.

Each class is conceived to be an intimate experience reminiscent of a family kitchen but kitted out with top notch professional equipment. A session we attended lasted three hours, where the instructor shared tips on the flavour foundations of Moroccan cuisine as well as common techniques — from slow cooking lamb to making your own ras el hanout at home — a ground mix of dried spices. The main recipe of the day was M’rouzia, a sweet and savoury lamb dish with raisins, almonds and honey.

“Many Moroccan dishes are slow cooked and a balance between sweet and savoury,” said our chef instructor in French as the aroma of onions, saffron and spices waft around the stove. “It’s a way for us to preserve meat before refrigerators were invented.”

In each session, the chefs share stories behind the dishes — how regional variations reflect Morocco’s diverse climates and cultures, or how historical trade routes influenced the availability of certain spices.

As the pot of M’rouzia simmered, outside, the sky was blue and the sun shining resplendent. At Royal Mansour at least, the culinary experience is one underscored with a deeper sense of purpose. One gets a sense that Morocco’s recovery is well under way, promising a future as enduring as the heritage it celebrates.