Guide to Niseko: Where to go and what to do in Asia’s favourite ski town

The snow has melted, the flowers are in full bloom, and the travellers have thinned out of Niseko. Right about now, however, insiders are quietly locking up their winter holiday plans to this sought-after ski destination.

Why, you ask? The interest in Niseko has increased year on year, reflecting the general post-pandemic tourism boom in Japan. According to the Japan National Tourism Organisation (JNTO), April 2024 saw over 3 million travellers visit the country, a 4 per cent increase compared to the same period in 2019. And with the yen getting weaker, it looks like there’s no better time to make that trip.

“Last season felt like a turning point,” said Stephanie Chai, CEO and founder of The Luxe Nomad, the largest luxury vacation company in Asia that exclusively manages chalets and apartment hotels in Niseko, Rusutsu and Furano in Hokkaido. “There were a lot more American travellers last winter, and they’re discovering what Asians have long loved about Niseko.”

A WINTER LEGEND

Home to the Ainu, the indigenous people of Japan, Niseko’s story as a ski destination started when Lieutenant Colonel Theodor von Lerch Edora from Austria visited in 1912. During his trip, he explored Kutchan and became the first person to climb and ski Mount Yotei — an accomplishment cemented with a statue in town.

The popularity of winter sports in Japan started in earnest during the country’s participation in the 1927 Winter Olympics in St Moritz, Switzerland. The same year, Prince Chichibu went to Kutchan, and a newspaper headline called Niseko “The St. Moritz of the East”. The association stuck — Niseko and St Moritz are sister cities today — and the flurry of ski resort development in the 1960s gave birth to an entire new industry in Hokkaido.

It’s not only the impressive infrastructure that draws people far and wide. Niseko is a mecca for serious powder hunters who travel to experience Japan powder — ‘Japow’ for short — first hand. They say that once you’ve carved through this fluffy snow, nothing else comes close. And while European ski destinations tend to have a buzzier après-ski scene, the quality (and variety) of Hokkaido food and the appeal of bathing in an onsen while the snow falls outside ensure a very different alpine experience.

Outside of serious skiers and snowboarders, Niseko is also an established winter family destination. Travellers from Singapore, Hong Kong and Australia love coming for a white Christmas or a snow-filled Chinese New Year holiday. With a bid to win the 2030 Winter Olympics, Niseko is scaling up its ambitions and developments. While there will be a lot to look forward to, there’s already plenty to explore on your next trip to the “Aspen of Asia.” Here’s our cool-luxe guide to the latest finds.

STAY

Niseko Kyo

When it’s freezing outside, all you want is a warm, cosy place that puts you in the centre of the action. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Niseko Kyo, a new ski-in, ski-out luxury apartment hotel that has direct access to the Ace Family Quad Lift and an easy stroll to the bars and restaurants in Hirafu. The hotel has 22 stylish residences ranging from one to six bedrooms, some of which have sweeping views of Mount Yotei and the Hirafu ski slopes. Best yet? Many of the rooms have a private onsen — perfect for a me-time soak after a long day out in the cold.

Tsubasa Chalet

If space and privacy are the priority, then the five-bedroom Tsubasa Chalet in Hanazono is worth the splurge. Designed by Riccardo Tossani, the three-storey chalet has striking Y-shaped architecture with cleverly placed windows that frame views of the surrounding birch forest. Hosting up to 12 people, it has plenty of communal spaces to bond — the open-plan living area has enough room for a grand piano, and there’s also a 40sqm indoor and outdoor private onsen. While it’s only five minutes from Hanazono ski resort, a stay here comes with a dedicated driver. Class.

EAT & DRINK

Dan

The hottest après-ski destination right now is The Select, a curated collection of Sapporo establishments transplanted to Niseko. And you’ll definitely need to book ahead at Dan — a 10-seater modern Japanese restaurant named after novelist and poet Dan Kazuo. The restaurant’s culinary ethos emulates the writer’s respect for tradition and rebellious spirit.

Dining here feels like you’re in a shokunin’s studio, with a close-up view of chefs deftly slicing fish and arranging delicate plates. The smallest tasting menu has seven courses including the exquisitely presented Hassun-style seasonal sashimi, the abalone with lily bulb, lotus root and kuzu sauce, and the Matsusaka Wagyu beef sukiyaki. A memorable highlight? They ask you to choose your own sake cup and bowl, adding a personal touch to an already highly personal meal.

Bar Haku

The fridge door entrance of Bar Gyu+ may have made it an Instagram sensation, but this new arrival also has a visual spectacle of its own: The ice-encrusted Wa-jito cocktail. A twist on the mojito, the cocktail is enveloped by floating ice that surprisingly lasts well after you’re done drinking this refreshing creation. Helmed by award-winning mixologist Shirano, Bar Haku offers a range of classic cocktails, top shelf whiskey and original spirits including its own gin. It’s a lovely place for an aperitif before dining at neighbouring restaurants at The Select, or a chic nightcap.

Rikka

A short drive to Kutchan and you’ll reach Rikka, an intimate restaurant that prides itself on showcasing the diversity of Hokkaido produce. They offer an ala carte menu and an omakase tasting course; the latter works best especially if you’re coming for dinner. Expect to enjoy the juicy Akkeshi oysters with radish, large Shiretoko prawn topped with uni, a simple yet mouthwatering tuna roll, a wonderfully balanced chawanmushi, and the tasty Kamifurano katsu sando. It’s a gem of a place offering carefully prepared familiar and comforting Japanese food, all at an incredible value for money.

Roketto Niseko

Fusing Singaporean flavours with fresh Hokkaido ingredients, Roketto has carved its own space in Niseko’s competitive culinary scene. Chef Willin Low’s restaurant at The Maples Niseko has two faces: It’s a casual noodle and donburi spot by day and then transforms to a 12-seat omakase service at night. Delectable food aside, the friendly service and the sweeping views of the Hirafu slopes entice you to linger even after you’ve finished your bowl of Snow Crab Laksa Udon.

Shirabaka by Naniwatei

If you’ve already hit Afuri and don’t fancy any of the food trucks by Seicomart but craving for something casual, then Shirakaba by Naniwatei will hit the spot. Located in Niseko Kyo, it’s conveniently set beside the ski valet so you can easily amble in directly from the slopes. It serves up delicious Kaisen sushi bowls (a Hokkaido specialty!) in winter and sumptuous una-jyu (grilled eel) in the summer.

ACTIVITIES

Niseko Snowmobile Tours

Swap your skis and snowboards for a snowmobile with Niseko Snowmobile Tours, an adrenaline-pumping experience that offers a unique perspective on Niseko. Choose from the powerful rides, get an expert driving tutorial and off you go to explore Niseko's uncharted terrain. Manoeuvring the hulking machine appeared daunting at first, but once I got going, I could easily see the appeal (thankfully it’s easier than learning how to ski or snowboard). It’s an amazing feeling weaving through the snow-covered trees and climbing up gentle hills in the backcountry. The most exhilarating part, however, is accelerating through a plateau covered in fresh snow with Mount Yotei towering in the background.

Sea and Summit Media

Did you really do that black run if you don’t have a photo or video as proof? Enter Sea and Summit Media, Niseko’s trusted name for guided photography and videography tours. Founded by outdoor adventurer and photographer Chad Clark, the company has a team well-versed in capturing the perfect frame and traversing the terrain. They’ll take you to less-trodden slopes, accompany you as you amp up a snowmobile, and even take a lovely family portrait. The group also runs Hokkaido fly fishing tours and winter wildlife photography tours where you can see—and snap—local animals like white-tailed eagles, red-crowned cranes, Hokkaido red foxes and more.

ESSENTIALS

Niseko Black

There are ski instructors then there are Niseko Black ski instructors. The premier luxury concierge service prides itself in providing anything guests ask — and they like doing it with flair. Case in point: My private ski instructor Lucas Westgate met me at the exit of my hotel dressed head-to-toe in black Moncler gear. There’s plenty of substance to go with the style as I enjoyed a fun yet challenging three-hour private lesson that helped build my confidence and, dare I say it, gave me an alpine high.

Win D’ol Resorts Service

If you’re looking to spend an entire day out or enjoy a kaiseki dinner date, a babysitting service is a must. It can be tough to find availability during peak periods, so I was delighted to discover Win D’ol, a local company that covers Niseko and Furano areas.

To say they’re professional is an understatement: I arrived back to see a happy 18-month-old who showed me his first artwork made from strips of origami paper, as well as received a full written report from the babysitter. This attention to detail isn’t surprising as the service is led by Saori Maki, a former national cross-country skier and the wife of renowned alpine skier and four-time Olympian Kimura Kiminobu. Together, their company also runs the Kimura Kiminobu Ski School, which offers a range of group and private ski and snowboarding lessons. Once my toddler is ready, I know where to go!