Hidden gems in Johor Bahru: Unique dining experiences across the Causeway
From exquisite Japanese omakase to a private dining kitchen, your next best meal may be right across the Causeway.
Johor Bahru is a buzzing cornucopia of cheap and cheery delights ‒ whether it’s foot reflexology or seafood, groceries or car detailing, Singaporeans have long taken advantage of the favourable exchange rate found just a drive across the Causeway.
The capital of Malaysia’s most southern state, however, has come a long way from offering mere border town distractions with a burgeoning culinary scene that is sophisticated and absolutely delicious. Here are four spots that even the most demanding gourmand will find exhilarating.
MERVYN'S KITCHEN
Mervyn’s Kitchen has a magical fairy tale quality about it. As you approach the lodge-style house with its trailing vines and clapboard siding, it transports you to a charming log cabin complete with pines trees miles away from downtown Johor.
This is a private dining experience orchestrated by Meryn Pee, a local boy with a love for fine French patisserie and an affinity for seasonality. Pee’s culinary training is grounded in pastry, the art he learned in Paris, where he stayed on to cook at some of the city’s top establishments and realised that cheffing in a hot kitchen was his true calling.
Upon returning to Johor, he found a dearth of private dining available, so he got on social media to offer degustation menus of the best in-season produce in his rustic cottage-style home. Through word of mouth, Mervyn’s Kitchen is now one of the town’s most sought-after tables, with prior reservation weeks in advance recommended to secure a seat.
A meal there is typically seven courses long, whether in the cosy dining room adjacent to the open kitchen, which seats up to eight or in a private balcony up a spiral staircase overlooking the city. The French-inflected menus are imaginative, meticulously prepared, then plated with finesse and served with warm service for a memorable experience.
KAMII SUSHI ECO PALLADIUM
Known as the late Minister Mentor Lee Kuan Yew's Japanese restaurant of choice when he came to Johor, Kamii Sushi has been a mainstay in the Japanese dining scene for decades. However, since July 2020, their original outlet in Sutera has been offering only omakase-style menus in a sleek new environment. Upping the ante, the group recently opened Kamii Eco Palladium, an omakase restaurant in a luxurious setting.
The elegantly appointed restaurant features a 12-seater sushi bar where diners can watch the chefs in action against a serene backdrop of a water feature and Japanese cranes. A small lounge is also available for diners to have a pre or post-prandial tipple from the curated list of sakes.
Attention to detail is evident from every aspect of the dining experience, whether it's the personalised service or the exquisite tableware sourced personally by the chef from fine artisans in Japan. Ingredients are also imported from Japan and of the finest quality, all the better to be combined into premium fare like truffle, foie gras and abalone.
The nigiri sushi is exceptional here, featuring exotic fish crafted with precision, and brushed with the restaurant’s in-house Nikiri. Different omakase menus are available, ranging from the tasting menu to the most premium classic one, each more indulgent than the next.
FIREPITZ
A pandemic baby, FirePitz Restaurant fired up its wood charcoal grills when its chef, Jia Jiun (JJ) returned to Johor from Singapore during the border shutdown. With 13 years of experience in the F&B industry, JJ was one of the opening team members for Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant in Singapore.
Turning his attention to a first storey space in Horizon Hills, Nusajaya, FirePitz offers a convivial dining experience with a view of the lively open kitchen. Firepitz also has the distinction of being the first wood charcoal grill restaurant in Johor Bahru.
Since it opened, FirePitz has become the go-to place for gastronomically inclined carnivores to enjoy steak as their meats are fired with a direct grill, which amplifies the the crispy and charred taste of steak. Premium meat choices are available here, including wagyu, black Angus, Japanese A5 wagyu and Hanwoo beef.
While the meats are undoubtedly the stars of the show, FirePitz's small plates are a delight and include the likes of Burnt Caeser salad (featuring torched Romaine), grilled eggplant with miso, grilled fish collar and cheek.
PROJECT SMOKED
Nestled in an unassuming link house in a Johor Bahru suburb, Project Smoked is an American BBQ restaurant serving meats smoked with local mangrove wood accompanied by internationally award-winning craft beers.
Project Smoked is the brainchild of JB born-and-raised Bino, who had experienced southern-style barbecue while studying at the University of Minnesota, USA. It was love at first bite for the aspiring pitmaster who taught himself the art of BBQ during his summer break.
Upon returning home, Bino saw a gap in the market as he found out that most American BBQ restaurants in JB were halal with no pork or alcohol. He felt that to represent American BBQ most accurately, pork and alcohol were must-haves. As such, during the pandemic, Bino decided to start Project Smoked out of his parent's house as a home-based delivery Smoked Meat outlet. As demand for dine-in grew, Bino expanded Project Smoked into a restaurant in Taman Sentosa.
Project Smoked’s new home offers premium pork cuts like Iberico Belly Burnt Ends and Kurobuta Spare Ribs, as well as quality beef cuts like Black Angus Short Ribs and Angus Beef Cheeks. All these quality meats are lovingly slow cooked in their in-house wood smoker. These can be ordered in meat platters according to the size of the party and accompanied with sides like coleslaw, tater tots and dirty rice.