Exploring Bologna, Italy: Where to eat, drink and shop in the city centre

It’s hard to think of Bologna as modern or cutting-edge — or possibly even subject to the forces of time itself. Home to one of the world’s oldest universities, founded in 1088, this city of just under 400,000 in northeastern Italy thrives on its traditions. For centuries it has attracted hungry travellers dreaming of lasagna, tagliatelle al ragu (Bolognese sauce), tortellini and mortadella, to say nothing of the architecture fans who come to admire its beautiful squares, palaces and churches, some of which date to the fifth century, if not earlier. But beneath the spires of the Due Torri, the Two Towers from the medieval era — currently closed for renovations — that have long served as a city symbol, and all along Bologna’s famous porticoes, newly opened restaurants, shops and museums have taken this historic capital of the Emilia-Romagna region in refreshing directions.

FRIDAY

5pm | Peruse a palazzo

Get your bearings with a walk around the city’s main square, Piazza Maggiore, and the smaller Piazza del Nettuno, dominated by its giant Fountain of Neptune, before visiting the nearby Palazzo Pepoli, a palace that now houses the Museum of the History of Bologna. Dating back to the 14th century, the palace has exhibits on Etruscan life, the Roman era, the university and more. Be sure to connect your phone to the museum’s Wi-Fi for access to the excellent English-language guide, which includes audio as well as in-depth descriptive texts dedicated to each of the museum’s 36 rooms. Admission, €10, about US$12 or S$15.

6.30pm | Meet with modern art

You’ll find masterpieces from the past at landmark museums like the Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna, home to works by Raphael, Titian and others (admission, €12), but for excellent contemporary art, stop by Galleria Studio Cenacchi, across three floors of Palazzo Ghiselli Vasselli, an aristocratic home dating to the early 16th century. Since its opening in 2016, this excellent small gallery has showcased high-quality painting, photography and sculpture by leading artists from across the length and breadth of Italy, with shows changing frequently. Free entry.

7.30pm | Go to the grill

Bologna is home to very strong culinary traditions, but the food scene is starting to open up, notably at the Uno di Questi Giorni (“One of These Days”), a chic, airy bistro open since late 2024 where most dishes — even the salads, with grilled lettuce and kale — are wood-fired, and where you’re unlikely to find tagliatelle, tortelloni, lasagna or virtually any of the city’s other famous recipes. Order dishes like the smoked pork belly with cauliflower puree (€18) a la carte, or see what shows up on the surprise five-course tasting menu (€65). The drink menu includes rarities like Intrecci Masia 22, a dry and flinty wine-beer hybrid from Ca’ del Brado, a beloved farmhouse brewery in the village of Rastignano, just south of town.

SATURDAY

9.30am | People-watch over breakfast

As a laid-back university town, Bologna is naturally home to a strong cafe scene, especially on weekends. Students and professors alike love Pappare’, a modern coffeehouse where great pastries are backed up by bracingly strong java. For a quick bite, grab a crunchy and flaky cornetto integrale — like a whole-wheat croissant — stuffed with sweet hazelnut cream (€1.90) with a flat white, made with two shots of espresso (€4). Or if you’re feeling particularly peckish, find your spot and wait a few minutes for the cheerful staff to deliver a plate of toast, scrambled eggs and crispy pancetta bacon (€12) or whole wheat pancakes with maple syrup (€9), while you enjoy some of the city’s best people-watching.

11am | Shop for style

Bologna isn’t Milan, but you can still find plenty of great new and vintage clothing and home decor, particularly on and around Via San Vitale. Amid costume jewellery and men’s cashmere sweaters at Fratelli Broche, find museum-quality vintage pieces like a Jean Paul Gaultier crop top (€189) that you can easily imagine on Madonna at the height of her fame. A few doors down on Via San Vitale, Antonio Niero sells remarkable historical posters and prints, including old Vespa advertisements (from €100) and political posters. Closer to the Due Torri, the Fitzroy design shop has handmade ceramic espresso cups (€14.50 each) and prints (around €25), all from independent artists. Finally, stop by the two-year-old Lux in Art, which stocks small maps of Bologna from 1654 (€250), racy ex libris bookplates from the 1930s (€150), and framed, hand-painted reproductions of mid-18th-century prints showing the city skyline (€600).

12pm | Discover unknown influences

Bologna’s once-influential 19th- and early-20th-century painters aren’t as well known as they deserve to be. To rectify that situation, Museo Ottocento Bologna opened in 2023, showcasing 85 carefully chosen artworks in a narrow, intimate space, alongside temporary exhibitions by related artists. Gorgeous paintings by Luigi Bazzani, Emma Bonazzi and Guglielmo Pizzirani display unique takes on Romanticism, Impressionism and other artistic movements, offering a compelling counterpoint to the bigger names of those eras (admission, €12). Just around the corner, enjoy the beautiful antique instruments at the Museo Internazionale e Biblioteca della Musica which highlights the city’s important role for musicians and composers, including Mozart, who studied here when Bologna was the centre of musical knowledge in Europe. Admission, €5.

1.30pm | Taste an original

Mortadella, the pork cold cut speckled with white fat and, sometimes, pistachios, has exploded in popularity beyond Italy in recent years. Taste one of the best versions of it in a sandwich at Mo! Mortadella Lab, one of the top places to enjoy the deli meat in a city where its status is protected under European Union law. The menu lists a number of combinations with various cheeses and ingredients. The most popular, No. 10, combines thin slices of mortadella with smoked provola cheese and a couple of house-made potato croquettes on a fluffy rosetta roll (€7.50). For those who find mortadella basic, sandwiches with prosciutto, artichokes and eggplant are also available, or you can have one made to order.

2.30pm | Go back in time

Commune with the past at the Archaeological Museum of Bologna. ​​Start downstairs with papyrus scrolls, sarcophagi, mummies (both human and feline) and amulets of the two fingers of Horus, all part of one of Italy’s largest collections of ancient Egyptian artifacts. Then go upstairs into the more recent past, where the spacious wings include collections dedicated to Etruscan, Celtic, Greek and Roman cultures, including an intact, second-century mosaic floor depicting a Gorgon’s head that was unearthed in Bologna in 1914. The museum’s sprawling 14th-century building, the Ospedale della Morte, or Hospital of Death, is suitably atmospheric (admission, €6). Afterward, stroll the Quadrilatero, the old city’s romantic market district, where you can munch on a cream-filled cannolo (€2) while window shopping at the old delis, hardware stores and (mostly modern) clothing boutiques.

5pm | Declare a gelato champion

Locals have their own favourites for the best gelato in Bologna, though a couple of names stand out. Grab a scoop of “portici” flavour (cheesecake and salted caramel, named after Bologna’s porticoes) and one of rich pistachio (€3.30) at Gelateria Gianni, one of the local champions. Then, compare that with the slightly creamier take on pistachio and the earthy, rich bitter chocolate (€4) gelato at La Sorbetteria Castiglione, another highly esteemed producer. The 20-minute walk between the two should let you work off some of the calories and give you enough time to reflect on which one is best. If you’re uncertain, consider tasting both at least one more time.

7pm | Dine with wine

The traditional wine-focused restaurants in the centre have a long history, like Osteria del Sole, which claims a founding date of 1465. But time moves on, and new arrivals like 2025’s Bottiglieria – Vinibelli are finding appreciative customers interested in natural wines. Start with a glass of Koi Cheto, a flinty, mineral-forward version of pignoletto, a regional white (€6), and a small plate of thick sourdough bread and two local cheeses (€12), before moving on to a serving of diaframma, or hanger steak, served medium-rare with loads of garlicky chimichurri sauce (€15). With its dual role as a bottle shop by day, wine bar and restaurant at night, Bottiglieria – Vinibelli has plenty to discover on its shelves, with patient, English-speaking staff ready to help you find your next favourite.

9.30pm | Choose your scene

Night crawlers will find an array of great bars and cafes, with a wide variety of crowds. For a mixology-focused vibe, try Volare, where creative non-alcoholic cocktails like the aromatic Aperitivo Floreale (€7) back up seven listed variations on the martini (€10 to €15). A few blocks away, the dark and romantic lounge I Conoscenti makes house cocktails like the Project, a Manhattan-esque take made with vermouth, rye whiskey, sherry, white chocolate and Sichuan pepper (€14). For an artsy crowd, hit up Caffe Pathe, inside the recently reopened Cinema Modernissimo, an art-house theatre from 1915. When international directors and cinematographers show up for screenings, you can discuss the finer points of their oeuvre with fellow cineastes over classic (€10), low-alcohol (€8) or even no-alcohol (€7) cocktails late into the night.

SUNDAY

10am | Climb for a view

Grab a takeaway cappuccino (€2) and a strawberry-and-mascarpone croissant (€3) from Bottega Portici and head for higher ground. With the Due Torri closed for repairs until at least 2028, the best way to get a panoramic overview is at the 150-foot Clock Tower, part of Palazzo d’Accursio (book in advance online or at the tourist office on Piazza Maggiore). The climb is slightly challenging as it nears the tower’s second, higher observation platform, but even the lower level offers excellent views over the squares below, including the Neptune Fountain. Time your visit to just before the hour strikes to see the clockwork — first added to the tower in 1451 — spin from the inside. Your ticket will also get you into the Collezioni Comunali d’Arte, in the same historic palazzo, which has beautiful artworks from across the centuries.

12.30pm | Finish with the classics

After taking over a long-running family restaurant, Elisa Rusconi gained fame in Italy as a winner on the competition show 4 Ristoranti. The restaurant’s second branch, Trattoria da Me nella Torre, opened in 2024 under the 13th-century Galluzzi tower. Throughout the week, locals pack in for the traditional tagliatelle, served quite firm, with meaty, slow-cooked ragù (€16) and the massive cotoletta alla Bolognese (€25), a breaded veal cutlet topped with cured ham and a super-rich cream sauce made with two-year-old Parmigiano-Reggiano. But you should make your reservation for Sunday, since it’s the only day Ms. Rusconi serves her take on one of the city’s most famous dishes: lasagna Bolognese (€17).

Evan Rail © The New York Times.

This article originally appeared in The New York Times.