Escape the tourist crowd and discover the beauty of Furano in Hokkaido

If you think a Hokkaido holiday begins and ends with Niseko’s ski slopes or a Club Med buffet line, think again. While those spots are fabulous – and fabulously crowded – there is plenty more to discover just beyond the beaten path.

For a destination that is quietly making its way onto savvy travellers’ radars (the locals have long gravitated here), take a closer look at Furano in central Hokkaido.

A two-hour drive from Sapporo’s New Chitose Airport, this charming town offers all the postcard-perfect landscapes one would expect, like its famed lavender fields as well as a spectrum of things to do year-round from hot air balloon rides to visits to boutique wineries and cheesemakers. In winter, it is the “secret” spot among ski aficionados seeking a quieter alternative with its high-quality powder snow but also has plenty of other winter activities for those who prefer to slow things down.

Plus, boutique hotel digs and high-end residential options catering to international tourists are popping up, an indicator that this town is gearing up for its close-up.

Yet, for now at least, it still feels relatively uncrowded, offering the increasingly rare opportunity to explore, discover and simply live in the moment. So, whether you are chasing powder or petals, it might be time to add a pin to the town of Furano on Google Maps as a reminder for the next time you plan a vacay in Japan.

SIGHTS TO SEE: LAVENDER FIELDS AND BEYOND

The rolling purple hills of Farm Tomita’s lavender are as Insta-famous and dreamy as they come, especially from mid-June to mid-August when the flowers are in full bloom. From August to September, enjoy a kaleidoscope of colours as the Shikisai no Oka flower gardens blooms in full glory. And for a poetic snapshot, look out for the lone cherry tree growing in the middle of endless rolling fields. It is most popular among shutterbugs when it is in full bloom during cherry blossom season, but there is a certain melancholic beauty to it even in winter, when its bare branches stand stark against the snow-dusted fields.

In autumn, the landscape is ablaze in fiery hues of the red and golden foliage while in winter, the snow-covered landscape of Furano ski resort is a sight to behold.

WHAT TO DO: FROM SNOW TO SUNSHINE ACTIVITIES

What is unique is that there is a year-round cornucopia of activities to cater to every type of traveller.

In the warmer seasons, there are outdoor activities galore including golfing, cycling and horse riding tours, rafting and canoeing in Sorachi River and hiking in Daisetsuzan National Park.

A highlight is hot air ballooning, which is especially picturesque in summer when the weather is mild, the skies are clear and the landscape is at its most vibrant, with colourful flower fields and lush greenery. But this can also be done in winter, where the balloon floats above a serene, snow-covered landscape for a surreal experience.

When the snow starts to fall, Furano transforms into a winter wonderland with a diverse array of experiences including snowshoe walking and husky dog sledding. Beyond the usual ski and snowboard thrills, a surprising standout is ice fishing on Kanayama Lake. Despite how it sounds, it is actually a cosy and social experience, where you will sit snugly in a windproof, heated tent while waiting for smelt fish to bite through a hole drilled in the ice. Time slows to a conversational pace and the reward for your patience is getting the fresh catch fried to crispy perfection for a tasty snack.

For a quirkier slice of local life, join a cabbage harvesting tour, where you will get a chance to dig up lush giant winter cabbages that are buried under snow as a “natural freezer” to keep them fresh and preserve their sweetness. It takes a bit of grit to shovel the frosty snow, but the payoff is a freshly cooked farm-to-table pot-au-feu winter veggie soup made with the harvested cabbage.

INSIDER EXPERIENCE: LEARN ABOUT THE LAY OF THE LAND

There is no better way to learn about Hokkaido’s wild and pristine nature than with a guided snowshoe walk through a powdery, untouched snowscape in the pine forest with a local guide. As immersive as it is enchanting, even the most distracted individual will start noticing how the forest opens up as the guide shares fascinating tales of the forest and its inhabitants, like the fresh tracks of the elusive foxes to the deep claw marks of a bear that climbed a tree. Little details like the call of a woodpecker or the way fresh snow clings to pine needles become captivating and meditative. This is the Japanese art of shinrin-yoku forest bathing at its most peaceful.

TASTES OF FURANO: LOCAL DELICACIES, WINERIES AND CHEESE

This is a destination where the food is honest, unpretentious, and above all, fresh. The region’s fertile land produces an abundance of farm-to-table delights and local eateries make the most of it with straightforward yet satisfying cuisine.

For a satisfying bowl of comfort, Shinatora Ramen is a must-visit – its signature black garlic ramen will warm you up after a chilly day outdoors. And for a taste of soup curry, Hokkaido’s hugely underrated specialty which is essentially a rich curry-spiced broth loaded up with freshly cooked seasonal vegetables and tender chicken or seafood, join the locals at Furanoya. With varying levels of spiciness, this dish packs a punch in the best way possible.

If you are craving a more refined meal, Shirakaba at Nozo Hotel offers quality shabu shabu and a selection of Japanese and international dishes from locally sourced ingredients including Furano pork, Tokachi beef and farm-direct vegetables. It also has a sushi bar for melt-in-your mouth sushi and sashimi.

Beyond the plate, Furano’s wineries and cheese-making workshops provide the perfect pairing to the region’s rustic charm. There are two wineries in town which offer wine tasting experiences, including Domaine Raison, which also has an on-site goat farm where visitors may feed the goats grazing in the fields. Alternatively, the Furano Cheese Factory offers a simple mascarpone cheese making session featuring locally produced dairy ingredients – a pleasant way to while away an hour while living the simple life.

WHERE TO STAY: A NEW INTERNATIONAL BOUTIQUE HOTEL

When it comes to accommodations, Furano has traditionally been dominated by quaint local hotels and cosy holiday lodges. These days, there are several new luxury residences like Furano Intuition under construction and a new boutique hotel, the design-forward Nozo Hotel adds a refreshing upscale touch to the mix, bringing a dash of international flair to this picturesque destination.

Designed in soothing neutral tones and contemporary minimalist touches a la Muji, the compact 78-room property has been thoughtfully built to incorporate a wide range of facilities and amenities. For instance, its indoor-outdoor onsen bath area includes a cold plunge pool and sauna and there is an onsite gym – a rarity in Japan – as well. Situated a five-minute walk from the Kitanomine ski lifts, the hotel also has a ski locker room which converts to a bike room for outdoorsy gear in the warmer months. Plus, foreign guests will appreciate the hotel’s diverse, multilingual staff members who speak English and other languages – a level of hospitality that is typically found only in bigger cities.

For now, this under-the-radar escape remains a hidden gem, but with so much to offer, it is likely that its quiet appeal will not stay a secret for much longer.