3 days in Copenhagen, Denmark: What to eat, shop & see

It is now customary, if not mandatory, to start any article about Denmark and its capital Copenhagen with a reference to hygge, which Wiki says is a Danish word “that describes a cosy, contented mood evoked by comfort and conviviality”. Which for those of us who have an aversion to tacky tourism board slogans and marketing spiel is an annoyingly accurate description of the whole place.

Copenhagen, in particular, seems to have synthesised the art of living well into every layer of the city. Even the absurdly photogenic locals – tall, blonde, casually stylish, and Holger Rune-ish – seem to have stepped right off the thick, creamy pages of Kinfolk and Cereal magazines. 

All of which means is that there is plenty to do and gawk at in Copenhagen. As you wander the vast green parks and bounty of museums and art galleries; browse through the tightly edited fashion stores; and marvel at the sheer creativity of the design scene, don’t be surprised if you’re struck by a sudden need to go straight home and completely overhaul your entire wardrobe, homeware and furniture. An exposure to any amount of hygge will do that to you.

DAY 1

Get your bearings and a lay of the land with a canal cruise around the city, its harbour and canals. Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s also a great way to take in the major landmarks. Otherwise, if you’re feeling particularly independent, rent an electric boat, or download a digital walking tour. 

Make your way to Stroget quarter in the old town where cobblestoned walking streets and ancient squares now feature local designers, jewellers, and fashion retailers. Thoroughly immerse yourself in classic Danish design at Illums Bolighus, a sprawling four-storey temple of extremely covetable furniture and homeware. Bonus: They’ll ship anywhere in the world. 

Head down Ny Ostergarde for lunch at Beau Marche . Start with a quick browse through its hipster collection of vintage and contemporary design objets, and then pop into the adjoining alley courtyard where its tiny house cafe serves great French salads, sandwiches and freshly baked cakes. 

Just up the road on the corner is VIPP’s quintessentially Danish homeware, furniture and kitchen store where you can deliciously torture yourself trying to decide whether to get the white dinner plates or the sectional sofa.

DAY 2

If you’re in town during the summer, do like the locals do and take a swim in the harbour at Islands Brygge (Halvtolv 1436). The water is, no surprise, super clean and there are five pools to pick from, and a huge lawn on which to sprawl and sunbathe. In winter, head to Obro-Hallen to swim in neoclassical splendour, the pool sheltered from the elements by a soaring arched glass ceiling. An even more Danish thing to do would be to hit the sauna (and a biodynamic wine) after a dip in the harbour at La Banchina.

At any time of the year, no trip to Copenhagen is complete without a stroll through The King’s Garden, surely one of the most picture-perfect parks in the world, followed by a classic Danish lunch of pickled herring at Cafe Victor. 

Before heading back to the hotel for a nap, tick off your one touristy activity for the trip, and visit the 100-year-old Little Mermaid statue. Set on a pile of sea-washed rocks to the east of the Kastellet – one of Europe’s best-preserved star-shaped fortresses – the tiny, beautifully proportioned bronze and granite statue is worth the effort of battling through the tourist hordes that gather all day here at the edge of the harbour. 

DAY 3

Designmuseum Denmark hits all the right marks with its incredible collection of Danish design, furniture, textiles and graphic design, and Japanese colour woodcuts and Japanese book crafts (did you really think Japandi came out of nowhere?).

As tempting as it is to spend a whole morning here, it’s time for lunch – inventive modern Italian, today – with Copenhagen’s beau monde at Levi. By which time, you should be ready for ‘Start Again the Lament’ – a haunting sound and light installation currently showing at the Cisternerne, an underground water tank now transformed into a multimedia exhibition space (till Nov 30, 2024). 

Mark the end of a short but memorable trip with dinner at Zeleste, a local favourite whose menu of great wines and simple, but deliciously prepared, seafood is best enjoyed in the little courtyard. 

WHERE TO STAY

The Danish aversion to anything mass produced explains the proliferation of small, standalone businesses, retail stores, and restaurants, many of which have been family-run for a few generations. Even hotels stand apart for the singularity of their branding and clientele. Case in point is the Sanders, a charming boutique property located just behind the Royal Danish Theatre. Owner and former ballet dancer Alexander Kolpin has transformed his childhood haunt, the old Hotel Opera, into an intimate stage set dressed in a sleek mix of old world style and mid-century Danish classics. Another plus point for staying at the Sanders is that so many of Copenhagen’s attractions are all within walking or bicycling distance.

GETTING AROUND

There’s a reason why, despite its super high taxes and generally high cost of living, Copenhagen regularly tops surveys of the world’s most liveable cities: its well-planned, thoughtful public transportation system. Most Danes get around on a bicycle, leisurely windmilling along wide, clearly marked, safe cycle lanes to the office, business meetings and errands. For longer distances, they hop onto the brightly lit, comfortable, clean and efficient buses and subways. Taxis are expensive – there are no Uber or car service apps – but they’re probably the easiest and quickest way to make the 20-plus-minute drive to and from the airport. Smart tip: the Copenhagen Card gets you free entry to top attractions and museums, and free transport.