Exploring Thong Lor, the Beverly Hills of Bangkok, Thailand

The network of streets that extend like tendrils north of Sukhumvit Road between Phrom Phong, Thong Lor, and Ekkamai skytrain stations offer some of Bangkok’s richest rewards.

Outside on the sidewalks, vendors tend to giant broth-stained terrines and manoeuvre sizzling woks over charcoal burners, the chatter from their customers cutting through the broiling tropical heat like galangal in a chilli-laden tom yam sour-spicy soup.

Lining these streets, an ever-replenishing of sleek restaurants and drinking venues include some of the city’s finest options for dining and imbibing.

Temple hopping and immersion into traditional Thai culture is not a thing in this part of the city, which is resolutely "new Bangkok". For entertainment and creature comforts, however, there are few better places to be.

Certainly, upper-crust Thais have long had a penchant for these neighbourhoods, evidence of which comes with the presence of ultra-salubrious mansions and the nose-to-tail parade of luxury cars that snake (slowly) down Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Soi Thong Lor) and Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Soi Ekkamai) at busy times of the evening.

There's a pleasingly egalitarian feel to the area with legendary all-night dining joints and long-standing speciality stores balancing out the organic juice bars, chic community malls and exclusive restaurants.

While there are plenty of hip coffee shops, spas and unique shopping options that vary from vinyl treasure troves to fashion boutiques to keep anyone occupied during the daylight hours, this part of Bangkok is particularly lively after dark.

EAT

Thong Lor has some of Bangkok’s most attractive dining options, with Michelin-approved venues sitting cheek-by-jowl with Japanese izakaya and a smattering of certifiable Thai classics.

One of the area’s top spots is the one Michelin-starred Canvas. Originally from Texas but with experience at kitchens around the globe, chef Riley Sanders puts his wandering ways to good use in a creative lineup of dishes such as shrimp noodles dressed in intense seafood sauce and mud crab prepared with lotus root and stem, swamp algae and rice paddy herbs.

Another venue with the Michelin stamp of approval is Cadence by Dan Bark. Dishes are, according to Bark, deeply personal and inspired by his own experiences. Creations like chawanmushi with leek, chorizo, and truffle; White Stripe Farm lamb with eggplant yoghurt and paprika and a selection of bites that incorporate uni, bouillabaisse, duck prosciutto showcase his skill at marrying elements of east and west.

Upscale Iberian cuisine is the focus at El Willy. Chef/owner Willy Trullas Moreno has laid down a marker with his “sexy tapas” since commandeering a space once occupied by the much-lamented Opposite Mess Hall. Big hitters in his sharing menus include an explosion de salmon y trufa (house-cured smoked salmon with Greek yoghurt and truffle honey) and salpicon y salmorejo, a slightly tart Andalucian cold soup that abounds with fresh shellfish.

As unlikely as it may sound, it can often be tricky to sample good quality traditional Thai cuisine in a contemporary setting. If you don’t want to pay top dollar at Bangkok’s very best restaurants or step back into the 1970s or 1980s at one of the city’s many long-running staples, then Supanniga Eating Room is as safe a bet as any.

Drawing on the culinary heritage of eastern and north-eastern Thailand mainly (although there are southern specialties as well) the venture has earned a deservedly formidable reputation. Standout dishes include the nam prik khai pu (crab meat with chilli paste), the yam pla salid tod krob (deep-fried leaf fish spicy salad), and an outstanding panang neua where meltingly tender beef shank combines with a rich coconut milk-infused gravy.

Rabbit Hole is prominent among Bangkok’s growing legion of world-class cocktail bars. Although the speakeasy-style decor – dark wood, compact space, and a back wall laden with booze – has become a stock in trade for cocktail bars in the Thai capital, several things mark Rabbit Hole out. The offerings combine classic drinks with creative concoctions such as a White Truffle Martini involving white-truffle oil-infused gin that is chilled to -18 degrees Celsius.

A collaborative approach is to the fore at Find The Locker Room, which mines the talents of renowned mixologists from Thailand, Japan and Singapore. Once located (the bar entrance is tucked behind a wall of lockers), the venue majors in radical spins on classics. For example, the “Bloodless Maria” uses mezcal instead of vodka and incorporates tomato sous vide.

Designer Ashley Sutton’s signature touches are all over Sing Sing Theater, a lively bar meets nightclub. Sing Sing abounds with decadent touches redolent of a Shanghai speakeasy, much in the vein of his legendary Maggie Choo’s over in the Silom district. This time Sutton has gone for a more futuristic feel, with traditional motifs clashing with space-age lighting. It’s all very lively and the buzz is reflected in an event roster that incorporates everything from film projections to live music and DJs.

SHOP

A characteristic feature of Thong Lor is its glitzy mini-malls. These all adhere to a similar ethos of high-end designer shops, wine bars and (of course, this is Bangkok) plentiful dining options.

The pick of these is arguably Eight Thonglor, which offers a great mix of culinary highlights balanced by independent boutiques and lifestyle retail. Picks at the mall include The Vintage Store, which specialises in items from discontinued lines by the likes of Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Flower Stage is an acclaimed Japanese florist that offers floral design classes. Other current highlights include Naraiphand, a centre for precious Thai handicrafts, and upscale barber, Barberford Reserve.

Located in a glasshouse surrounded by greenery Patom Organic Living is a natural haven in the bustling centre of Thong Lor. Derived as an offshoot of the renowned Suan Sampran riverside eco-park, it places its focus on the utilization of certified organic ingredients procured from an extensive farmer network. This commitment to freshness is vividly evident in a wide range of offerings that extend from fresh produce to skincare products.

ZudRangMa Records is a prime spot for vinyl lovers. Although it stocks a decent range of contemporary and vintage indie, soul and dance records, the store's speciality is retro Thai sounds. Check out the excellent compilations on its imprint. Take the opportunity to nip further up the street to Studio Lam, ZudRangMa’s house bar, where the shop's eclectic ethos is accompanied by a selection of premium cocktails.

RELAX

The lack of conventional tourist attractions in Thong Lor makes it acceptable to while away the hours in an onsen or a spa. The area’s mighty selection of great coffee shops and its smattering of galleries also deliver plenty in the way of diversion.

Located just by Thong Lor skytrain station, Palette Artspace is a splendid place to get a cultural fix. Art spaces are spread throughout every level of the building. The third and fourth floors, featuring minimalistic design and floor-to-ceiling windows, serve as the home for constantly changing exhibitions by Thai and international artists. On the second floor, you'll find dedicated areas for workshops and meetings.

If you like your Japanese-style bathing with a little seclusion, then Kashikiri 49 Onsen & Spa is the onsen for you. A beautiful complex, replete with the usual Japanese trimmings of bamboo, hinoki wood and manicured horticulture, offers seven private tubs, including four tubs for couples and four private massage rooms.

Stellar options include a two-hour treatment that includes a soak in the bath, a body scrub, and a hot aroma oil massage. Other massage categories include foot reflexology, Thai massage, and hot Asian herbal compress.

Other pampering options include Oasis Spa, which offers one of the most idyllic spa experiences in the Thai capital. The spa comprises cool white buildings with large wooden doors surrounded by lush greenery, calming ponds and water features. The meditative atmosphere is perfect for signature massages, hydrotherapy baths and herbal steam room.

STAY

Thong Lor welcomed a classy new addition to its contingent of luxury hotels earlier this year with the opening of MUU Bangkok. A member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection, the 148-room property has several strings to its bow.

Accommodations range from spacious rooms and suites to residences, starting with the 37-square-meter Deluxe King rooms and extending to the lavish 180-square-meter Thong Lo Suite, complete with a generous private terrace. 

Appealing extras include a rooftop infinity-edged pool, the acclaimed Otto Italian restaurant and direct access to Eight Thonglor.

Volve is another appealing boutique option in the hood. Coffee lovers will appreciate the fact that the hotel has collaborated with a small coffee roaster from Chiang Mai when they sample their morning Java. Other things we like include the hotel’s on-site restaurant, a modern take on a traditional Thai-Chinese eatery from the 1950s.