Jewellery watches are among the most exacting
and creative horological wonders. Here are
eight of the most striking pieces of 2022
What separates a timepiece set with diamonds from an extraordinary jewellery watch?
It is truly difficult to say, but you will know it when you see it — and certainly
when you wear it, if you are fortunate enough. Such watches tend to be rare — many are
unique creations — and are designed to wow. Often they might not even look very much like
watches, and are sometimes so playfully audacious that they do not even feature gemstones.
Of course, watches of the latter sort will not appeal to traditionalists, just as fantastically
lavish objets may be a tad too ‘purple’ for contemporary tastes. While you cast a critical
eye on this selection, remember to save a place on your scorecard for how any one of these
might feel on the wrist.
THE SOFT
TOUCH
While the Cartier
Coussin Innovation
looks like just another
gem-set watch, this
is a clever illusion. It
feels like nothing else
in the world.
Cartier challenges the hard reality of precious metals and gemstones with this soft-to-the-touch Coussin Innovation watch. The watchmakers have employed material science and
3D printing to deliver a white gold mesh that allows the case to have the feel of a cushion;
Coussin watches are inspired by the shape of cushions.
PRISMATIC
FANTASTIC
Who needs to pry gemstones from the earth when there are technical solutions that require
the same level of fastidiousness and skill as traditional gemsetting? With the carbon fibre
composite MP-09 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Rainbow, Hublot has created the world’s first
wristwatch with coloured carbon fibre inserts. The idea is a wink and a nod to the traditional
watchmaking rainbow setting technique.
EACH OF THE LITTLE DOTS OF COLOUR IN
THE HUBLOT MP-09 CASE ARE THE RESULT
OF INDIVIDUAL INSERTS, BUT THE CASE FEELS
SMOOTH TO THE TOUCH.
STEALTH
MODE
The pure beauty of a fine timepiece is sometimes threatened by the mundane presence
of hands, which the Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi neatly circumvents by dint of being
a secret watch. The tiny manual winding movement works quietly behind a pavé dial
in the head of the snake, allowing what is one of the world’s most supple bracelets to
properly shine instead.
MINIATURISED
MAGNIFICENCE
It takes a lot for any watch to preen on the wrist like a peacock but Chopard gets the job
done, both literally and figuratively, with the Animal World Peacock. Forming the entire
bezel and spilling over onto the dial, the peacock is a miniature titanium sculpture that
features a staggering 2,230 gems of various types. It is a unique piece, which likely speaks to
the challenge of working with titanium in this form.
AS A BONUS FOR PURISTS, THE CHOPARD
ANIMAL WORLD PEACOCK WATCH USES
A SELF-WINDING MOVEMENT.
COSMIC
DANCER
The Gucci G-Timeless
Planetarium features
a unique set-up for its
hands, allowing them
stay out of the way of
the gemstones.
Speaking of party tricks, the Gucci G-Timeless Planetarium watch packs a couple,
including its unusual central tourbillon, which is almost concealed by the clever use of
diamonds. On command, the 12 green princess-cut tsavorites acting as hour markers spin
around the dial in an unexpected whirlwind of colour and light.
BEDAZZLING
BEAUTY
The Première watch began the story of watchmaking at Chanel 35 years ago, and the Chanel
Hors-Série Première Chain Charms is paired with iconic motifs of the luxury maison. So
as well as being a wristwatch, this one is also a series of charms, at least in one of the three
versions of this special edition.
THE CHANEL PREMIÉRE WATCH SHARES THE
LIMELIGHT IN THIS EXECUTION WITH FIVE OTHER
ICONS FROM THE LUXURY MAISON.
A GRAND
GESTURE
High jewellery is often marked by a sense of playfulness and extraordinary creativity, to
which Piaget adds multi-functionality with the Solstice Extravagant Touch. The white
gold Solstice sports a pair of amazing metiers d’art feathers that can actually be separated
from the watch and worn as earrings. The fact that the feathers are real, like the gems, is the
ultimate party trick.
COLOUR
THEORY
While other watchmakers satisfy themselves with mere colourful dials and straps, Audemars
Piguet put its gemsetting partners at Salanitro to work on delivering some serious fun instead
with the Royal Oak Selfwinding Rainbow in two sizes, 41mm and 37mm. The rainbow
gemsetting style is something of a watchmaking tradition, which Audemars Piguet also has a
bit of sport with by offering 10 versions of each model, instead of combining all colours on
one watch.
