Bvlgari and MB&F join forces for a wild take on the iconic Serpenti

What happens when you bring two titans in the watchmaking world together? The answer is magic.

Bvlgari and MB&F have joined forces for yet another unexpected collaboration, this time reimagining the iconic Serpenti, a timepiece known for its snake-inspired design, into a Horological Machine. The new creation arrives quite fittingly in the Year of the Snake. 

While Bvlgari's Serpenti watches have become an icon in their own right, they are mostly popular with women due to their feminine aesthetic. With this collaboration, the reptile is given a bolder, more masculine edge. 

The new Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti comes in three materials – 18k rose gold, grade 5 titanium and black PVD-coated stainless steel – each limited to just 33 pieces.

While the case of the watch is unmistakably reminiscent of a snake from the top-down view, it looks like a car from the side. That’s no coincidence. Both Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, director of watchmaking creation at Bvlgari, and Maximilian Busser, founder and creative director of MB&F, are car enthusiasts.

Five sapphire crystals, including those for the snake’s eyes, bring the serpentine shape to life. The rear features stepped sapphire crystal shaped like the flaps on the rear window of a sports car, and the crowns resemble car wheels.

This is not the first time that Italian jeweller and watchmaker Bvlgari has collaborated with independent watch brand MB&F. In 2021, the brands released the MB&F x Bvlgari LM FlyingT Allegra, which brought the colourful world of Bvlgari jewellery into MB&Fs Legacy Machines.

The design process behind the Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti was an intense one, resulting in hundreds of sketches and dozens of 3D-printed models, the brands said in a press release.

“At MB&F we specialise in ‘kinetic sculptures which give time’ so it was definitely our calling. Nevertheless, the biomorphic design of this watch created enormous challenges in terms of the case but also the movement,” shared Busser. “The intricate case is entirely machined with 5-axis 3D mills and holds the five sapphire crystals which were not only extremely complicated to make but equally challenging to fit due to the curved nature of the case and the desire for a water resistance of 30m.”

Inside the complex case sits an equally complex movement developed in-house by MB&F. Stigliani wanted to bring the Serpenti to life by animating its eyes and this was achieved through revolving hour and minute domes – the left dome making a full rotation in 12 hours and the right one in 60 minutes. Hand-applied Super-Luminova gives the “eyes” an eerie glow in the dark.

The star feature of the movement is a suspended 14mm balance wheel that represents the snake’s brain, beating at 2.5Hz, held in place by a three-dimensional balance bridge bearing the Bvlgari x MB&F signature.

Stigliani said the piece “was a pleasure to design, but technically very challenging to produce”. “The aim was to have a totally different vision. The snake is a magnificent object that appeals to many collectors. I think we succeeded in giving the Bvlgari serpent a new horizon. It is not just a feminine object linked to the brand’s DNA but, for the first time, a technical object that speaks to the Bvlgari aesthetic and showcases MB&F’s expertise. Like all good collaborations, it is a win-win project.”

The Bvlgari x MB&F Serpenti retails for S$218,000 (Black PVD, Titanium) and S$250,000 (Rose Gold).