‘Pieces of art for kings’: The watchmaker that makes fewer than 100 masterpieces a year

In the watchmaking world, high horology exists in a realm where timekeeping transcends utility and becomes an intricate dialogue between art, engineering and philosophy. In these rarefied ateliers, artisans labour over movements composed of hundreds of miniscule components, each painstakingly finished by hand. 

There’s an obsession over the smallest of details too, and to wear such a watch is less about telling the time and more about carrying a legacy on the wrist. 

Occupying a place in this world is Swiss watch brand Jaquet Droz. It was founded in 1738 by Pierre Jaquet-Droz, who created clocks, timepieces and automata for European royalty, including King Ferdinand VI of Spain, Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette of France, as well as for Chinese emperors captivated by European artistry. 

The brand was acquired by Swatch Group in 2000, and in 2022, it underwent a radical reinvention, spearheaded by CEO Alain Delamuraz. The new strategy involved closing all 176 points of sale, including both multi-brand retailers and single-brand boutiques, instead focusing on making bespoke orders directly with high-profile clients. Today, the only way to purchase a Jaquet Droz watch is directly through the manufacture itself. 

The modern-day Jaquet Droz is known for its exceptional metiers d’art and highly complex automata, often blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary artistic expression. The Imperial Dragon Automaton, for instance, features 19 moving parts on the dial that animate nine distinct movements, from the dragon’s undulating spine and opening jaw, to the flick of its tongue and constant rotation of its claws grasping a ball of red jasper. 

The Petite Heure Minute Red Gold Japanese Garden achieves a striking three-dimensional effect, its dial meticulously carved from mother-of-pearl to depict a serene landscape of water lilies, koi carp and a tranquil Japanese garden. 

Meanwhile, the Rolling Stones Automaton fuses pop culture and technical artistry. A tribute to the iconic band of the 1960s, it features miniature replicas of each member’s instrument, from Keith Richard’s five-string guitar, Mick Jagger’s harmonica and microphone and the drum set of the late Charlie Watts. Encircling these mini instruments are the band’s album covers on a vinyl record, which functions as an automaton. When activated by the pusher on the crown, the vinyl disc spins for at least 30 seconds, while the band’s signature red tongue emblem sways rhythmically.

Jaquet Droz produces less than 100 watches a year, an anomaly at a time when brands are increasingly driven by scale and visibility. The average price of a piece? Around 300,000 CHF (US$380,159; S$485,175). As Delamuraz puts it: “We are doing exactly what Pierre-Jaquet Droz did, creating pieces of art for kings. Our customers are the kings of today. They may not wear crowns anymore, but they are kings.” 

Delamuraz reflects on the philosophy shaping Jaquet Droz today, the human connection between artisan and collector, and what it means to create heirloom watches meant to be passed down through generations. 

If you could describe the DNA of Jaquet Droz in three words, what would they be?

Authenticity, passion and emotion. Authenticity means we don’t cheat. We have the legacy, the know-how to make a movement, an automaton and metiers d’art. We have the talent to do that. When I speak about what we do, I do so with passion because I truly understand what goes into a piece. All that gives emotion to a product. For me, there is no real luxury without emotion because you are not just buying a watch, you are buying a piece of art. Every time you look at it, it should move you. The world is completely crazy today, and that emotional connection matters now more than ever. 

What sets Jaquet Droz apart from other watchmakers in high horology?

I never consider another watchmaker or brand as a competitor, they are all partners. It can be Patek Philippe, Jacob & Co, Greubel Forsey, as long as these brands are able to convince a collector to invest in watchmaking, to believe in our art, we are doing the same job. 

Can you walk us through the process of making a Jaquet Droz piece with a client?

Clients will have contact with our artisans to see what they want. Some of our collectors know exactly what they want. Some have no idea, so we work together. It’s a partnership between the person who wears the watch and the person who makes it. There’s always a human connection. 

In the luxury industry over the past decade, purchases have often felt like commercial transactions: you know what you’re buying, but not who made it. That’s why this direct contact between collector and artisan is so important.

Is there a limit or guideline to the kind of crazy ideas a client may have?

Yes, politically, we have some limits. We have limits when it comes to religion too. So yes, we can go very far. I want to say the sky is the limit, but it’s a little bit before that. 

How would you describe the typical profile of a Jaquet Droz customer?

The common thread is that they have a passion for art. Once again, we are not selling watches, we are selling art. They are able to feel the emotion behind the art, because buying a Jaquet Droz is not a question of money. 

Is there a difference between what your Asia collectors are looking for in a watch compared to collectors from US or Europe?

I don’t think so. Around the world, you find the same kind of people who understand what we do and are willing to take the time to appreciate the object itself. They can come from anywhere, but they share a similar approach – they respect the craft and often buy with the idea of passing it on to family or to others in their circle. 

What I don’t like is when a customer says, “I’m buying a half-million dollar watch – how much can I sell it for in two years?” Then you should go to a bank. We are not a financial product. If this is what you want to do, go ahead, but not with us. 

So it’s like an heirloom piece to keep in the family for years.

Yes. I remember a client in India who said, “Let me call my son – I want to be sure he likes the watch.” He already knew it would one day go to him. I loved that – it shows the idea of transmission, of creating something that becomes a legacy.

At a time when the world feels a little unsettled, what’s the role of a brand like Jaquet Droz in such a climate?

Exactly, you are right. The world is grey, black and sad. So our mission is to bring colour, happiness and a positive vibe. And this is what we do with some of our watches, such as the Joyful Birds, which is inspired by inflatable art. 

As the leader of a heritage brand like Jaquet Droz, what does luxury mean to you?

For me, luxury is made up of many elements – know-how, culture, artistry – there are countless ways to define it. But at the very highest level, true luxury is something you cannot compare or even put a price on. It’s like art.

That’s what we strive to create: objects, pieces of art, that are truly unique. Uniqueness is probably the most important aspect of luxury – something you cannot find anywhere else. At Jaquet Droz, we’re fortunate to have the in-house talent to create pieces that are genuinely one of a kind.

So while there are many definitions of luxury, for me, it ultimately comes down to uniqueness – something incomparable, something you won’t find elsewhere.

This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.