Gold rush: How watchmakers have elevated the precious metal

Gold prices surged 27 per cent in 2024, marking the biggest annual increase in 14 years – and luxury watchmakers are proving that their proprietary gold alloys are worth their weight... and more. As Rolex quietly raised prices this January amid the rally, the demand for exclusive gold blends has never been more compelling. Beyond enhancing a timepiece’s intrinsic value, these alloys demonstrate a manufacture’s dedication to craftsmanship and innovation.

In its pure 24k form, gold has a reddish-yellow hue and is naturally soft, making it impractical for watchmaking. To improve strength, wear resistance, and colour stability, base metals like copper, silver, and palladium are introduced, creating gold alloys that refine aesthetics and durability. Today, 18k gold, which contains at least 75 per cent pure gold, is considered the industry standard as it strikes a balance between purity and practicality.

Among one of the most enduring innovations is Rolex’s patented Everose gold, which was developed to resist fading for a lifetime. Omega has built a diverse portfolio of four proprietary alloys – Sedna Gold, Moonshine Gold, Canopus Gold, and Bronze Gold – with each offering a distinct hue and metallurgical properties. Hublot’s Magic Gold is the world’s only scratch-resistant 18k gold, while its King Gold offers a deeper, more intense red tone. Meanwhile, A. Lange & Söhne’s Honeygold, IWC Schaffhausen’s Armor Gold, and Panerai’s Goldtech push the boundaries of hardness and resilience for greater longevity. More recently, Audemars Piguet’s Sand Gold and Chanel’s Beige Gold have redefined traditional gold tones with contemporary, sophisticated shades.

As gold prices continue to soar, these proprietary alloys reaffirm the watchmaking industry’s pursuit of excellence, showing that even one of the world’s most time-honoured precious metals can be reimagined, refined, and elevated to meet the demands of modern luxury. Here, we explore how these exclusive materials are not only shaping this evolution, but also defining the future of luxury timepieces.

ROLEX

In 2005, Rolex introduced its patented 18k pink gold alloy, Everose gold, which maintains its radiance and defy the natural fading that plagues traditional rose gold. A meticulously balanced blend of at least 75 per cent gold, 20 per cent copper, as well as palladium and indium, its exact formula remains a well-guarded secret. What isn’t a secret, however, is its unmistakable lustre and warmth – a deep, aurora-coloured gold shade that doesn’t fade with time. Rolex doesn’t leave anything to chance, which is why the precious alloy is cast in its own foundry in Geneva, ensuring unwavering quality and that signature long-lasting radiance.

A. LANGE & SOHNE

Gold is beautiful, but A. Lange & Sohne decided it should also be tough. Enter Honeygold, the Saxon manufacture’s exclusive 18k alloy that’s not only harder than standard gold, but also far rarer as it’s typically reserved for only Lange’s most exclusive timepieces. To date, only 12 models have been rendered in Honeygold, making them highly coveted among watch connoisseurs. Developed through years of metallurgical research, this patented blend of 75 per cent pure gold with special ratios of copper and zinc is reminiscent of luscious, golden honey – a rich and restrained warm, luminous hue that sits between pink and white gold. Honeygold’s increased hardness makes it more resistant to wear, proving that luxury doesn’t always have to be delicate.

CHANEL

Chanel has never followed convention, and its Beige Gold is proof of that. Inspired by Gabrielle Chanel’s love for beige, which started with the wet sand beaches in Deauville, France, this proprietary blend tempers gold’s brilliance with a soft, sophisticated warm hue. Designed to not age, Beige Gold made its debut on the bezel of the J12-365 watch in 2015 and since then, it’s graced other iconic collections like the BoyFriend line of watches as well as fine jewellery. Made up of 75 per cent gold, the precious alloy is the result of hundreds of meticulous trials.

PANERAI

Launched in 2016, the Italian manufacture’s proprietary Goldtech was engineered for durability. Flaunting a deep, rich red hue that stands apart from traditional pink or yellow gold, the secret lies in its composition – 75.6 per cent gold, 24 per cent copper, and 0.4 per cent platinum – that’s fine-tuned at Panerai’s Laboratorio di Idee to enhance colour and resilience. Unlike standard gold alloys, Goldtech is designed to resist fading and oxidation, while maintaining its hallmark, almost bronze-like warmth. Tougher than standard pink or yellow gold, it’s the perfect match for Panerai’s refined, tool-watch DNA.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

The Swiss watchmaker’s Armor Gold elevates classic 5N gold, or red gold, and enhances its resilience and longevity with cutting-edge metallurgy. A sophisticated transformation process refines its microstructure, making it significantly harder and more wear-resistant than conventional gold. Retaining the precious metal’s rich, warm glow, Armor Gold ensures that luxury doesn’t come at the cost of durability.

AUDEMARS PIGUET

In 2024, Sand Gold made its grand entrance on the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked timepiece. Depending on the light and angle, the proprietary 18k gold alloy subtly shifts between white and pink gold to impart a dynamic, ever-evolving appearance. Inspired by sand dunes bathed in sunlight, the exclusive material is made with a special ratio of gold, copper, and palladium that enhance its resistance to discolouration, while maintaining a sophisticated, warm hue. Its brilliance is further accentuated by Audemars Piguet’s signature finishing techniques of satin brushing and polished chamfers that amplify its rich play of light.

HUBLOT

Magic Gold

A ground-breaking innovation introduced in 2012, Magic Gold is the world’s first scratch-proof 18k gold alloy, which was exclusively developed in partnership with Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne, a public research university in Lausanne, Switzerland. Boasting a remarkable hardness of nearly 1,000 Vickers – far surpassing standard 18k gold (400 Vickers) and stainless steel (600 Vickers) – the revolutionary material is the hardest gold in the world. Produced entirely in-house at Hublot's high-tech foundry, it’s created by fusing boron carbide with 24k gold, resulting in a durable yet luxurious alloy. Magic Gold also boasts a distinctive shade of gold, making it instantly recognisable and a true testament to Hublot's pioneering spirit in watchmaking.

King Gold

Complementing the innovative Magic Gold is Hublot’s second exclusive 18k gold alloy, King Gold, that’s renowned for its redder hue compared to traditional 5N red gold. To achieve its unique colour, Hublot’s metallurgists increased the copper content, while incorporating platinum to enhance stability and prevent oxidation for brilliance that endures over time.

OMEGA

Sedna Gold

Introduced in 2012, Sedna Gold is Omega’s proprietary 18k rose gold alloy, which is designed to retain its rich, fiery hue for a lifetime. Named after one of the reddest planetoids in the solar system, this exclusive alloy is formulated with over 75 per cent gold, 20 per cent copper, and some palladium to enhance colour vibrancy and stability. While traditional rose gold can fade over time, Sedna Gold maintains its lustre and warmth.

Canopus Gold

Canopus Gold, which was unveiled in 2015, is Omega’s exclusive 18k white gold alloy that boasts exceptional brilliance, purity, and longevity. Composed of over 75 per cent gold, with 20 per cent palladium and a touch of platinum and rhodium for enhanced durability and radiance, this material is perfect for the Swiss manufacture’s high-end and diamond-set timepieces. Inspired by Canopus, a massive star 71 times larger and 10,000 times brighter than the sun, the alloy reflects the same celestial brilliance, making it a standout choice for those who appreciate understated luxury.

Moonshine Gold

Created in 2019, Moonshine Gold – Omega’s very own 18k yellow gold alloy – is inspired by the soft glow of moonlight against a dark night sky. With a paler, more refined hue than conventional yellow gold, this proprietary blend resists fading over time to maintain its colour and lustre far longer than traditional yellow gold. Comprising 75 per cent gold, with 14 per cent silver, 9 per cent copper, and palladium that accentuate its brilliance and durability, Moonshine Gold is a modern take on a timeless metal.

Bronze Gold