7 watches that feature unique and rare materials

Luxury watchmaking has long been defined by precision, intricate complications, and masterful craftsmanship, but today, it’s also a frontier for material innovation. From prehistoric resin to the rarest metal in the universe and space-age composites, brands are pushing boundaries with unique, resilient, and revolutionary elements that redefine creativity and engineering.

Hublot, ever the disruptor, continues its streak of world-firsts with the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, the first multi-coloured ceramic watch that took four years to perfect. Arnold & Son goes organic with the HM Steel Amber, which flaunts a dial crafted from 30-million-year-old Baltic amber, while Louis Vuitton’s latest LVKV-02 GMR 6 boasts a case made from tantalum, a metal rarer than gold or platinum. IWC Schaffhausen’s latest Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL for the Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team employs bulk metallic glass (BMG) to protect against extreme impacts. Meanwhile, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition showcases an iridescent automotive-paint dial, another world-first in watchmaking.

For those drawn to cutting-edge composites, Richard Mille’s RM 74-02 Automatic Tourbillon introduces Gold Quartz TPT, blending quartz fibres with 22k gold to create an entirely unique striated pattern on every case. And then there’s Panerai, which takes innovation further with the Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition that incorporates bronze salvaged from the restoration of the historic yacht Eilean. These seven watches prove that horology is as much about materials as it is about mechanics.

ARNOLD & SON

Sometimes, pushing boundaries means drawing inspiration from the depths of time, and the independent Swiss watchmaker does just that with the HM Steel Amber. Featuring a remarkable dial crafted from Baltic amber – a little-known material in watchmaking and a first for Arnold & Son – it showcases golden hues and a luminous depth that only nature could create.

Sourced from a rare 1.6kg block of prehistoric conifer resin fossilised over 30 million years, each dial is a one-of-a-kind canvas brought to life through Arnold & Son’s quiet mastery. Every ancient amber disc is meticulously selected, cut, and polished to perfection, ensuring that no two pieces are ever alike.

Housed within a 39.5mm stainless steel case, the HM Steel Amber is a masterclass in restraint, allowing the organic centrepiece to command attention. Its design is deliberately minimalistic, with two hands gliding over a dial that once held the lifeblood of primeval forests. Beneath this natural beauty lies the ultra-thin, hand-wound A&S1001 calibre delivering an impressive 90-hour power reserve. Paired with a deep imperial-green alligator leather strap, this 38-piece limited edition is a fusion of nature’s artistry and impeccable craftsmanship. It’s a true masterpiece for the discerning collector, who appreciates that true innovation often lies in honouring time itself.

GIRARD-PERREGAUX

When it comes to bold material innovation, the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Edition draws directly from the world of high-performance automobiles. Its defining feature is a vivid, iridescent dial created using automotive-grade paint, a rarity in watchmaking. Drawing from Aston Martin’s legendary racing heritage, the signature green hue is a nod to British motorsport and an engineering triumph.

Achieving this striking effect requires a painstaking 14-step manufacturing process, with 15 ultra-thin layers of paint meticulously applied before undergoing two controlled heat treatments. Unlike automotive painting, where minor imperfections can go unnoticed, this watch demands absolute precision, with the paint filtered through an intricate process to remove even the smallest grains. The result: A dynamic colour shift that plays with the light, transitioning between green and fiery orange at different angles.

At the heart of the 42mm titanium watch beats the GP03300-0141 calibre, a self-winding mechanical movement. With a 46-hour power reserve, it drives the chronograph complication, snailed counters, and skeletonised hands, elements inspired by Aston Martin’s design DNA.

HUBLOT

The Swiss manufacture’s legacy is built on boundary-pushing breakthroughs, and Magic Gold – the world’s first scratch-proof 18k gold alloy – was just the beginning. Now, Hublot takes its expertise even further with the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic, introducing another world-first: Multi-coloured ceramic.

Unlike simple surface treatments or painted coatings, Hublot’s proprietary Magic Ceramic process infuses vibrant pigments directly into the ceramic, a feat that required over four years of research and a pending patent. Achieving this intricate interplay of colour was no small task. Each pigment reacts differently under extreme temperatures during the baking and moulding process, making it notoriously difficult to achieve a flawless, uniform result. Hublot’s engineers overcame this challenge by developing a new technique that balances heat, pressure, and material composition to create a seamless multi-hued effect. The result? A stunning combination of pop art and precision engineering, with intense blue rings organically set against a dark grey ceramic bezel.

A 20-piece limited edition, the 42mm Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic is equipped with the Unico automatic flyback chronograph movement that complements its avant-garde looks. Finished in grey to complement the dominant ceramic tones, it’s topped off with a full black lined rubber strap.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

Innovation in materials is at the heart of IWC Schaffhausen and its latest Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff x Mercedes-AMG Petronas Formula One Team is a testament to that philosophy. Designed to withstand the extreme conditions of Formula One, this timepiece incorporates bulk metallic glass (BMG), an advanced material that enhances shock resistance beyond traditional metals.

As part of IWC’s Sprin-g Protect shock absorber system, the BMG spring shields the movement from extreme g-forces, dissipating impact energy before it reaches the delicate mechanics inside. Housed in a Ceratanium case, which merges the lightness of titanium with the hardness of ceramic, the watch embodies the sleek aggression of the Mercedes-AMG Petronas F1 Team’s race cars. The signature Petronas green coated Super-LumiNova accents provide a striking contrast against the textured black dial, while the hands and floating minute track enhance the watch’s bold, technical aesthetic. Powered by the IWC-manufactured 32101 calibre with a 120-hour power reserve, this timepiece also includes an additional black rubber strap.

LOUIS VUITTON

The LVKV-02 GMR 6, Louis Vuitton’s latest collaboration with Finnish master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, is a travel-inspired masterpiece that melds impeccable craftsmanship with one of the rarest materials in existence. Its 40.5mm Escale case is cast from a striking combination of tantalum with platinum lugs, bezel, and crown.

Tantalum, the rarest stable element in our solar system, is far scarcer than gold, platinum, or any conventional precious metal, existing at just one atom per 181 billion atoms of other elements. This lustrous, deep blue-grey metal is exceptionally durable, hypoallergenic, and corrosion-resistant, but its extreme hardness makes it notoriously difficult to machine – a challenge only few watchmakers dare to tackle. Its rarity, combined with the limited five-piece production run, makes the timepiece a true collector’s treasure.

The gold dial is a work of art, featuring hand-guilloche inspired by Louis Vuitton’s Damier motif and miniature painting evoking ancient stained-glass windows. A hand-engraved sun and moon day/night indicator in the maison’s hallmark saffron and blue hues hides Monogram flowers within its details.

Beneath the artistry lies a manually wound GMT movement in hand-finished German silver with two direct-impulse escapement wheels for improved efficiency and power reserve. Presented in a hand-painted Louis Vuitton trunk, the LVKV-02 GMR 6 is a statement of sheer horological audacity.

PANERAI

Limited to only 30 pieces, Panerai’s Radiomir 8 Giorni Eilean Experience Edition PAM01643 grants its owner exclusive access to the Mediterranean Experience, an immersive journey through Sicily’s hidden treasures. From a helicopter ride over Mount Etna to a private vineyard tour, the experience culminates in a sailing expedition aboard Eilean, a historic Bermudian ketch restored by Panerai. Access to this extraordinary experience is only available with the purchase of the watch.

It's only fitting that the PAM01643 carries Eilean’s legacy in its very structure. During the yacht’s extensive restoration, sections of its original bronze fittings were salvaged and repurposed for the timepiece. The bronze underwent a meticulous process of successive castings to purify it before blending it with new bronze to form the bezel, crown, and caseback medallion. This Panerai Bronzo alloy, composed of copper with 8 per cent tin, provides exceptional structural strength while developing a unique patina over time. Complementing these elements, the 45mm Brunito steel case undergoes PVD treatment and hand-brushing to achieve its rugged, vintage aesthetic.

Beneath the grainy beige sandwich dial that’s reminiscent of Eilean’s sails beats the P.5000 hand-wound calibre with eight days’ power reserve. The dark brown leather strap, stamped with “1936”, and an engraved dragon emblem – found on the yacht’s hull – cement this watch’s connection to Panerai’s rich maritime history.

RICHARD MILLE

The RM 74-02 Automatic Tourbillon in Gold Quartz TPT is what happens when high watchmaking meets high-tech alchemy. Dressed in Gold Quartz TPT, a material exclusive to Richard Mille, this 52.63mm by 34.4mm timepiece merges the technical resilience of quartz with the timeless allure of gold. Developed in collaboration with Swiss composite specialist North Thin Ply Technology, the material is made by layering ultra-thin sheets of quartz fibres, heating them under intense pressure, and embedding delicate 22k 5N red gold leaves. This achieves a radiant, translucent composite with natural striations that create a unique visual tapestry, which perfectly balances ruggedness and refinement.

At its heart is the calibre CRMT5, an in-house automatic tourbillon movement with a 50-hour power reserve. The openworked design showcases the movement’s intricate architecture, with hand-finished details and bevelled edges adding a touch of elegance.