LVMH Watch Week 2024: Standout watches from brands such as Hublot, Zenith, Tag Heuer and more

Held in Miami from Jan 28 to Feb 1, the fifth edition of LVMH Watch Week saw an array of exciting novelties from Hublot, Tag Heuer, Zenith, and Bulgari. The event also saw the revival of two iconic independent watch brands, Daniel Roth and Gerald Genta, under watchmaking masters Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. A tribute timepiece with subtle updates from each brand was unveiled, much to the delight of watch connoisseurs.Hublot upped the ante and gave the world a peek into the future of watchmaking with its singular MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System timepiece that has no dial or hands. Tag Heuer and Zenith honoured the past by capturing the essence of their most emblematic timepieces, while Bulgari continued to enchant with watches that exude timeless elegance. Here, we put the spotlight on nine novelties from the event.   

HUBLOT

MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System

Measuring 54.1mm by 41.5mm, this architectural 592-component creation with no dial took five years to develop and here’s why. In place of the usual hands are four rotating displays: The hours and minutes in the upper third of the dial, combined with an invisible magnifying glass; the circular power reserve in the centre with green and red zones; and the seconds in the lower third, indicated directly on the tourbillon cage. Made from monobloc aluminium, it’s suspended and inclined, and a patent application is pending for this unique mechanical configuration.

Although complex in looks, the 50-piece limited edition MP-10 is read easily and naturally from top to bottom. Sharing the same white lacquer typography on black aluminium rollers, each indication tells the current time via a red triangular marker. For the winding system, instead of a flat oscillating weight that is used in a conventional automatic watch, Hublot engineers devised the ingenious verticalised HUB9013 movement to fit into the MP-10’s unique construction. Here, it incorporates two blocks of white gold arranged on a vertical axis along which they are free to move. And while the 22.4mm-thick case construction is simple (comprising the middle and caseback in shiny micro-blasted titanium), the sapphire crystal is Hublot's most complex to date as it combines inclined planes on three axes.

Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski

The collaboration between French sculptor Richard Orlinski and Hublot continues with the seventh Classic Fusion Orlinski timepiece. What sets this iteration apart is its graphic skeletonised dial with a tourbillon. Offered in two colours, it features the signature Orlisnski aesthetic on a polished ceramic case. Components of the manually driven HUB6021 calibre, like the crown and the six H-shaped titanium screws on the bezel, appear to be suspended by contrasting black PVD skeleton bridges on the vibrant yellow variant. On the other hand, the same components on the blue version are not coated. At 6 o’clock, the tourbillon can be admired from the front and back, while the power reserve between 8 and 9 o’clock indicates the impressive five-day power reserve. Only 30 pieces of each 45mm reference will be produced.

ZENITH

Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar

Collectors will know that Zenith’s triple calendar chronograph has reigned for over 50 years as one of the El Primero’s most emblematic variations. With its bezel-less design and domed sapphire crystal, the watch maintains the exact proportions of the A386 from 1969, while accommodating the high-frequency chronograph with a full calendar, and moonphase at 6 o'clock. Available in a sporty silvery-white “panda” dial, opulent slate-grey, and a boutique-exclusive olive green, each 38mm version exudes sophistication with rose gold accents and meticulous detailing. A transparent caseback reveals the intricate El Primero 3610 calibre with a 60-hour power reserve. The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar is presented on a steel bracelet or calfskin strap that matches the dial colour.

Chronomaster Sport

One of two new 41mm Chronomaster Sport additions, the El Primero’s trademark tricolour scheme is elevated here in the line’s first bejewelled iteration. Featuring a radiant rose gold case and bracelet, its flashy bezel flaunts expertly set baguette-cut white diamonds, black spinels, as well as grey and blue sapphires. The dial is just as exquisite: Made from a slab of meteorite, it is hand-finished before it’s swathed in a golden colour that imbues the meteorite’s unique Windmanstaatten pattern with a warm glow. Adding to the complexity of working with the ancient space material, the dial is adorned with baguette-cut diamond hour markers and applied chronograph counters in grey and blue shades. Exclusively available at Zenith online and physical boutiques worldwide, the gem-set watch is powered by the latest El Primero 3600 calibre with an extended power reserve of 60 hours. Its sapphire display back allows one to see the movement’s contemporary architecture that boasts a sleeker, more open design with a blue column wheel and open rotor marked with Zenith’s star logo.

TAG HEUER

Carrera Chronograph and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon

The manufacture kicked off 2024 with two steel timepieces in vivid teal: The Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph, which is inspired by the iconic Dato layout, and a second iteration with a tourbillon.

While the iconic Dato look with a date aperture at 9 o’clock remains, the Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph’s notable technical enhancements include the case’s improved ergonomics, a gracefully curved flange, and a dial with circular brushed finishing. The 39mm watch showcases rhodium-plated indexes and hands, complemented by a teal green azure mono subdial at 3 o’clock. For easy reading of the indications, its domed sapphire Glassbox crystal has been re-engineered to have a curve that flows seamlessly over the flange and blends into the case. The watch features an open caseback that reveals the in-house automatic movement TH20-07 with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. Additional refinements, such as the bidirectional automatic winding mechanism, enrich this timepiece. A luxurious black alligator leather strap adds the final touch to the watch.

Also dressed in the same striking hue, the 42mm Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon at 6 o’clock features a tourbillon cage encased in a glass frame. The teal green flange, rhodium-plated applied indexes, and deep azure subdials surrounded by green rings, add flourish to the watch’s elegance. The curved Glassbox enhances the watch’s aesthetic appeal  ̶  the tourbillon and dial layout can also been seen from various angles. At the heart of the timepiece is the TH20-09 calibre, created by Tag Heuer Movements Director Carole Forestier-Kasapi and the Swiss watchmaker’s technical teams. And like the Carrera Chronograph, the watch comes with a black alligator strap.

GERALD GENTA

Mickey Mouse Minute Repeater

The legendary maison debuted at LVMH Watch Week 2024 with this unique watch featuring Mickey Mouse. First launched last year to mark the 10th edition of charity auction Only Watch, this piece now celebrates Disney’s centenary and the 40th anniversary of the brand’s collaboration with Disney. Conceived by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton’s master watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, who have both worked closely with Gerald Genta himself, this timepiece highlights Genta's signature design elements: The octagonal case, enchanting chimes, and high complications. Flaunting a fully enamelled dial, the whimsical 40mm watch is powered by the innovative in-house GG-001 calibre. A blend of horological mastery and playful charm, the minute repeater with jumping hours and retrograde minute movement serves as a delightful reminder of Genta’s creative genius.

DANIEL ROTH

Tourbillon Souscription

Widely loved by collectors in the 1990s, this independent watch brand is also experiencing a renaissance led by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Paying homage to the original design of 1988, the Tourbillon Souscription encapsulates the values of the brand that have remained unchanged over 35 years. Crafted in yellow gold, a metal exclusive to this edition, the case features the singular Daniel Roth aesthetic of a double-ellipse design ­– a cross between a square and circle. The dial also honours the brand’s history. Formed from a solid yellow gold plate, it is decorated with Clous de Paris guilloche like the original. Powered by the hand-finished calibre DR001, which was manufactured entirely in La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, it boasts a generous 80-hour power reserve and tourbillon regulator that captures the essence of the original design. As its name suggests, the 20-piece limited edition 38.6 by 35.5mm watch is available via a subscription basis.

BULGARI

Bulgari Bulgari