Bringing sexy back: Tank tops, latex dresses and corsets at Milan Fashion Week
Milan Fashion Week took place against the backdrop of the unfolding Ukraine crisis, but the show must go on. And what a show it was, with designers unveiling high-octane silhouettes and futuristic ensembles. Here are the highlights.
Milan Fashion Week was back in full swing for the Fall/Winter 2022-2023 season with a bevy of in-person shows. A-list celebrities sat front row as Gucci made its return to the runway after a hiatus, Giorgio Armani staged its collection after cancelling two shows in January, and Matthieu Blazy unveiled his first collection as head of Bottega Veneta.
Here are all the trends spotted for the season.
Matthieu Blazy, the new creative director of Bottega Veneta, made his long-awaited debut collection at Milan Fashion Week. Blazy succeeds Daniel Lee, whose surprising exit was announced last November.
Simplicity was key in Blazy’s collection, which featured looks such as a white tank top paired with straight-leg jeans. But the devil was in the details. The jeans were actually engineered from nubuck leather, printed to appear like denim.
When it came to accessories, the collection debuted the new Kalimero bag, slung over the shoulder and woven as one piece with no seams. Thigh-high leather boots feature the house’s signature intrecciato weave.
DOLCE & GABBANA
Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana embraced the metaverse with a virtual catwalk blended together with a real one. Virtual models dressed in the new collection were projected on a giant screen. When they reached the catwalk, they were replaced with real models who continued down the runway.
Throughout the collection, the house made a case for the return of the exaggerated 1980s shoulder pads, which featured on double breasted coats, cropped jackets and faux fur coat dresses. Other futuristic silhouettes included a red latex heart-shaped dress, one-legged trousers and asymmetric sunglasses.
With Milan Fashion Week taking place amid the backdrop of the Ukraine conflict, Giorgio Armani was the first fashion house to acknowledge the situation with a silent show. "My decision not to use any music was taken as a sign of respect towards the people involved in the unfolding tragedy in Ukraine," the designer said in a statement.
Looks sent down the runway included black velvet coats, short jackets in pastel hues and shiny, electric blue silk evening gowns and sequinned black and silver dresses.
It has been two years since Gucci staged a runway show in Milan. Alessandro Michele, known for his gender fluid approach, put the spotlight on masculine suits for women, including a navy double-breasted trouser suit and a velvet tuxedo with crystal detailing.
Michele also used the runway show to reveal what is possibly the hottest collaboration of the year: Gucci and Adidas. Models strutted down the runway in sporty chic outfits stamped with the Adidas clover leaf and the Gucci brand. Men’s suits in shades of royal blue and purple featured the Adidas stripes on the sleeves and trousers.
It might be the Fall/Winter season but Versace is committed to sexy, unveiling a collection characterised by corsetry. Supermodel Bella Hadid walked down the runway in a cinched red mini dress with corset details, which also made its way onto suiting and puffer jackets.
“Never shy or retiring, the Versace woman has a powerful and seductive sense of mystery, shifting in and out of sight,” read the show notes.
Prada also showed white tank tops paired with multi-textured midi skirts. Model Kaia Gerber opened the show in one such look, while actress Hunter Schafer of Euphoria fame closed the runway in an almost identical outfit.
Other looks included oversized coat dresses paired with handbags and Mary Jane shoes, tailored blazers with large shoulders, and coats featuring feathers on the sleeves.