Princess Diana’s personal effects to go under the hammer Jun 27

The British royal family continues to hog the headlines as they navigate a complex period in their history. King Charles’s reign has been overshadowed by the ongoing rift with Prince Harry, Kate Middleton’s battle with cancer, and his own struggles with cancer. Of course, the royals are no strangers to controversy, with the late Princess Diana constantly in the spotlight during the 1980s and 1990s.

Diana’s marriage woes and eventual divorce from then-Prince Charles, her relationship with Dodi Fayed, and her willingness to expose Princes William and Harry to real-world issues like homelessness and AIDS made her a tabloid darling. But she also enjoyed unparalleled global attention as a celebrity, thanks to her glamour, compassion and vulnerability. She was arguably the most iconic royal member of modern times.

Diana was the original fashion influencer, well before such roles were even dreamed of. From her fairytale wedding gown to her “revenge dress”, her outfits made daring statements and set global trends. Her evolving style, blending royal elegance with modern sensibilities, cemented her as a towering figure in fashion whose influence persists today.

More than 25 years after her tragic death, Diana’s life and story continue to captivate the world through movies, TV shows, documentaries, exhibitions and auctions. On Jun 27 (Thu), for example, Julien’s Auctions will hold a sale of Diana’s dresses, gowns and fashion accessories at the Museum of Style Icons in Ireland and online.

“This auction for Princess Diana also includes other royals such as Queen Victoria and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, so there will be over 100 items,” explained Martin Nolan, co-founder and executive director of Julien’s Auctions, via email.

A portion of the auction proceeds will go towards Muscular Dystrophy UK, benefitting more than 110,000 people in the country suffering from the muscle-wasting and weakening disease. “This is an important charity for personal family reasons to one of the consignors to this auction,” said Nolan, when asked why the nonprofit was chosen.

WINNING STREAK

As to what inspired the auction in the first place, Nolan pointed to Diana’s universal and enduring appeal, as well as the collectability of her personal effects, which sell for record prices. In December 2023, a blue-and-black star-embroidered dress by Jacques Azagury that Diana wore in 1985 and 1986 sold for US$1,148,080 (about S$1.5 million) at a Julien’s Auctions sale, over 11 times its estimate. It set a record for the highest price paid for a Diana dress at an auction.

In September 2023, Diana’s black sheep sweater by Warm & Wonderful sold for US$1.143 million at a Sotheby’s auction. In January of that year, Kim Kardashian snapped up a diamond and amethyst pendant that belonged to Diana for £163,800 (about S$280,000) at Sotheby’s. Her dresses and accessories continue to smash records as collectors and museums compete to own pieces from her legendary wardrobe.

“Julien’s has sold numerous garments belonging to Diana… for record-breaking amounts,” said Nolan. “This prompted clients who own Princess Diana’s items to consign to us, enabling us to assemble a really impressive auction for her.”

Among the highlights of the Princess Diana’s Elegance & A Royal Collection auction is a Murray Arbeid midnight blue strapless tulle gown with a fitted bodice, which she wore twice in 1986 – once at a Phantom of the Opera premiere and to a dinner at Claridge’s in honour of King Constantine of Greece. The gown carries an estimate of US$200,000 to US$400,000.

“Princess Diana wore beautiful custom-made fashions, but this gown was from the designer’s 1985 autumn runway show, which was offered in department stores,” explained Nolan. “Typically, designers who dressed the Princess would make custom pieces that no one else would wear. However, Diana enjoyed shopping for herself and purchasing garments ‘off the peg’. She typically frequented Harvey Nichols and Harrods.”

Another showstopping item is a magenta silk and lace evening dress designed by Victor Edelstein that she wore in London and Hamburg in 1987, with an estimate of US$200,000 to US$400,000. The off-the-shoulder dress features a Spanish flamenco-style skirt with three tiers of gathered lace flounces.

Edelstein first met Diana when she was pregnant with Prince William. He would go on to produce one of the Princess’s most memorable looks – an ink-blue velvet gown with a mermaid tail skirt that she wore when she danced with John Travolta at The White House in 1985.

“Princess Diana wore several evening pieces designed by Victor Edelstein,” said Nolan. “This particular design shows Diana’s preference for a dignified but delicate look. Her status as a royal prevented her from wearing extreme designs seen on fashion runways. She was able to balance formal design with her taste, such as her preference for off-the-shoulder necklines, fitted bodices with romantic skirts, and dark colours that made her look statuesque.”

DIANA’S PRIVATE LIFE

The auction also showcases ensembles created by one of Diana’s closest collaborators, Catherine Walker. Among them is a pink floral silk shirt dress which is estimated to fetch between US$100,000 and US$200,000. “Each of the items in this sale tells a story or captures an important moment in Princess Diana’s life. We have the pleasure of offering her beautiful gowns and items related to her private life as a mother,” explained Nolan.

Diana wore the silk shirt dress while competing in a race at Prince William’s school sports day in 1988. She was also photographed in the dress on Aug 22, 1991, leaving St Mary’s hospital in London, and again in 1992 when leaving Prince Harry’s school in Notting Hill.

Walker, said Nolan, not only dressed Diana, but also assisted in her public image. During her separation from Prince Charles, Walker was astute in dressing Diana in black for evening occasions, which the latter was discouraged from wearing as a royal. Walker also developed a streamlined silhouette for Diana, especially in her coatdresses and men’s tailoring-inspired gowns. In her designs, Walker used men’s suit jackets to give Diana a professional look.

To drum up interest in the auction, a pop-up exhibition with 25 lots was held at K11 Musea in Hong Kong in April. The exhibition then moved to Ireland, where it is put on show till Jun 27.

Sourcing items for an auction is a perennial challenge, shared Nolan, but less so in this case. After smashing the world record for selling the Jacques Azagury gown last December, many collectors contacted the auction house to consign their Diana memorabilia, hoping to ride the wave of interest and make a tidy profit.

“We curated this auction as our clients view Diana’s fashion as works of art and a sound investment,” explained Nolan. “Museums love to have Princess Diana items as part of their permanent collections as she is a huge attraction, and we always have this in mind when choosing the items we bring to auction.”

Another consideration that Nolan had was to include lower-priced items, to appeal to a wider audience. For example, there’s a Rayne violet leather semi-circle clutch expected to fetch around US$2,000 to US$4,000. Diana was photographed with the clutch in 1990 on an official visit to Washington DC, where she and then-First Lady Barbara Bush met with AIDS patients. She used the same clutch in 1992 during her tour of India, when she visited the Taj Mahal.

As for what advice Nolan can give to interested bidders, he said: “We always recommend that people know their budget when they come to bid in an auction. We also suggest that people buy celebrity items that they like and appreciate. These items are now considered an asset class, works of art that are likely to increase in value in years to come.”