Treasure Island: Van Cleef & Arpels transforms an adventure on the high seas into high jewellery

What comes to mind when you think of the word “treasure”? Do you picture a wooden chest brimming with gold and glistening jewels? Does the idea of a treasure hunt on the high seas conjure up images of a pirate with a wooden leg?

Van Cleef & Arpels wants to take jewellery lovers on an enchanting quest for hidden treasure. Its latest high jewellery collection draws inspiration from a literary classic, reimagining Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic novel Treasure Island into a dazzling display of precious stones. The book, published in 1883, narrates the story of an adventurous young Jim Hawkins, who discovers a treasure map and sets out on an expedition to find this treasure, buried by a pirate on a deserted island.

Following an international debut for the collection in Miami last November, the collection had its regional launch in Phuket, Thailand this January. And for the French maison, the idea of a treasure hunt mirrors the art of jewellery collecting.

“Collecting is like building your own treasure chest. It’s very personal,” Julie Clody Medina, Van Cleef & Arpels’ Asia-Pacific president said in a roundtable with press. “As a collector on a treasure quest, you might be drawn to a particular stone that speaks to you, something with deep personal meaning, or a piece to pass down to future generations. You could also be guided by a theme.”

This deep sense of personal connection is reflected in the collection’s choice of rare, vividly-hued gemstones – from sapphires to emeralds, rubies and diamonds – each carefully selected. They bring to life brooches that take the form of pirates, palm trees, seashells and ships. Other pieces take a more abstract approach, like a stunning blue necklace that subtly captures the movement of waves.

“The stones that are used for this collection are just mesmerising,” said Clody Medina, adding that they were sourced four years prior to the collection launch. “The stones we look for are always based on weight, cut, and clarity, but we look for character as well. The character is the spirit of the stone.”

The collection also highlights the maison’s exceptional craftsmanship and signature techniques. Several pieces come to life through the iconic Mystery Set technique, where gemstones are seamlessly set without visible prongs or metals. Transformability is another key element. “A lot of pieces can be worn in different ways – you can detach a pendant that becomes a clip. The versatility of the objects, which are true pieces of art, is highly recognisable as Van Cleef & Arpels’ touch and way of crafting high jewellery,” said Clody Medina.

Like a true adventure story, the collection unfolds across three chapters accompanied by whimsical illustrations by French comic book artist and writer, David Beauchard.

The chapters – Adventure at Sea, Exploring the Island and Treasure Hunt – are best encapsulated by the Palmier Mysteriuex clip. The piece features three interchangeable motifs: a diamond-encrusted boat, a sun, and a chest of precious stones, each of which can be swapped to rest beneath the palm tree. The tree’s lush green leaves are crafted using Mystery Set emeralds.

Here are some other highlights from the collection.

CHAPTER 1: THE ADVENTURE AT SEA

Every treasure hunting adventure begins by setting sail. In this chapter, Van Cleef & Arpels delves deep into the maritime world. The Hispaniola clip pays tribute to the eponymous ship in the Treasure Island novel. The sails of the clip – in white gold set with diamonds – appear to be swelling in the wind, an effect accentuated by the interplay of horizontal and vertical lines in which the diamonds are set, which create a three-dimensional effect.

The Ecume Mysterieuse necklace features waves of diamonds set against Mystery Set sapphires. It references the marine genre of painting that was popular in the 19th century when Treasure Island was written.

A personal favourite of this writer’s is the Trio of Pirates clips, named John, David and Jim after the main characters of the novel. Pirate John strikes a cheeky yet confident stance, Pirate David stands atop gold bars and Pirate Jim sits perched at the top of a mast. The realism of each pirate was achieved through intricate green wax sculpture work, which enabled the body, clothes and accessories of each figure to be shaped by hand, prior to the lost wax casting process.

CHAPTER 2: EXPLORING THE ISLAND

Dropping anchor off the coast of a tropical island, lush landscapes and a myriad of precious flora and fauna await to be discovered. Nature has long been a source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels.

A standout creation of this chapter is the Palmeraie Merveilleuse necklace, with a hefty 47.93 carat emerald cabochon at its centre, set on a detachable pendant that can be attached to a clip. A crown of palm leaves forms this fully articulated necklace, with sweeping curves of gold and diamonds. The green of the emerald is reminiscent of lush foliage.

Named Tortue de Cocos in reference to an island located off the coast of Costa Rica, this whimsical turtle clip is endowed with a shell crafted in a curved three-dimensional volume, adorned with luminous blue oval sapphires arranged in a mosaic. Round and baguette cut diamonds form its legs, while two buff-topped emeralds form the eyes of the creature.

The Recif corallien necklace is crafted in the Rococo style of jewellery which embraces asymmetry and natural motifs. The necklace is inspired by coral reefs, featuring a 5.33 carat ruby from Thailand. The piece is Clody’s favourite in the collection. “I love the ruby, it’s a very intense and powerful red, and then you have the intricacy of the corals that really replicate what you see in nature,” said Clody Medina. 

A hidden surprise awaits in the Coquillage Mysterieux clip. The precious seashell sparkles with diamonds and glistens with Mystery Set rubies. The back of the clip conceals a fairy sculpted in white gold, holding an emerald while resting on a white pearl.

CHAPTER 3: THE TREASURE HUNT

The adventure culminates in the discovery of a hidden treasure chest. This chapter showcases an array of treasures inspired by cultures and historical periods from around the world. 

The Carte au tresor clip is a rolled-up treasure map made of yellow gold, with tiny engravings, painstakingly done by hand, highlighting different locations of the island, with a ruby indicating the hiding place of the treasure chest. The map is sealed with a twisted cord in rose gold, with two tassels that can move.

This chapter also showcases a series of statement rings, including the Coffre Precieux ring which gives pride of place to the stones traditionally referred to as “precious” – diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds. Crowning the piece is a 14.32-carat sapphire.

The Dieu du vent and Dieu du ciel clips reference two emblematic divinities from Mayan mythology – Huracan, the god of wind, storms and fire, and Itzamna, the god of the sky, night and day. They are adorned with a myriad of precious stones and crowned with majestic headdresses in hammered gold and diamonds.