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This food entrepreneur – whose great-grandfather was the cattle king of Singapore – opened a steakhouse specialising in smoked meats

Isrudy Shaik is the visionary behind ASAP & Co, a Muslim-owned steakhouse in Telok Ayer specialising in smoked meats that are meant to be enjoyed the primitive way.

This food entrepreneur – whose great-grandfather was the cattle king of Singapore – opened a steakhouse specialising in smoked meats

Isrudy Shaik, founder of steakhouse ASAP & Co. (Photo: Aik Chen/CNA)

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In the kitchen of ASAP & Co, a Michelin star poster graces one of the walls. It symbolises its founder's aspiration to one day achieve culinary excellence for the steakhouse, which specialises in smoked meats.

Isrudy Shaik first opened the restaurant in October 2020. His background, however, is in the arts scene. He spent his formative years studying fine arts at LASALLE College of the Arts, and subsequently worked at gallery exhibitions as a coordinator at CarriageWorks in Sydney, Art Stage Singapore and the NTU Centre for Contemporary Art.

It was during his time in Australia where he discovered his passion for meat. “The apartment my wife and I were staying in was located next door to a Lebanese butchery. I would always hang out with the butchers, learning about different meat cuts such as ribeye, striploin. Sometimes, I would also follow them to the farms, where I witnessed how the cows are raised and their dietary habits,” Isrudy shared.

The couple would also barbecue a lot. “Barbecue is part of the Australian culture, so when we had visitors, that’s what we would do,” Isrudy said.

ASAP & Co specialises in the art of smoking, where its meats are smoked to perfection. (Photo: ASAP & Co)

The pair eventually moved back to Singapore for new job opportunities, but retained their passion for barbecue. Isrudy installed a barbecue pit in the balcony of his home, and continued to hone his skills for smoking meats. With the encouragement of friends and family, he eventually launched The Smok House, a private dining business. “We were always full house on Saturdays and Sundays, but COVID-19 came and we had to pivot to doing deliveries,” Isrudy recalled.

Despite the success of the delivery business, Isrudy longed for a physical space. “I believe my customers deserve a nice environment where they can dine, and where I can see that smile on their faces when they first bite into their steak. This inspired me to leave my full-time job and open a restaurant,” he said.

He named the restaurant ASAP & Co – “asap” means smoke in Malay – and opened first at North Bridge Road before moving to its current location in Telok Ayer. ASAP & Co specialises in the art of smoking meats, which according to Isrudy, is rooted in the Palaeolithic era, also known as the Old Stone Age. “Humans first discovered smoking during this period by accident, when the dead carcass of an animal was left by the fire. That’s how they realised that meats taste better when cooked by fire,” he explained.

Isrudy learnt the art of smoking after picking up barbecuing as a hobby during his time in Australia. (Photo: Aik Chen/CNA)

At ASAP & Co, steak is to be enjoyed the primitive way. The steakhouse has no gas service. Instead, fire is the main star as the beef is smoked with choice wood such as cherry, oak, and apple, naturally enhancing its flavour.

The restaurant serves premium beef in a variety of cuts, sourced from a network of award-winning farms worldwide. It is Muslim-owned and is meant to be inclusive to all, Isrudy said. It also offers non-alcoholic wine pairings to go with the meats. Its customer demographic is currently split evenly between Muslims and non-Muslims. Situated within the CBD, the establishment attracts a bustling crowd of working adults during lunchtime. Come evening, Isrudy noted, "We see couples on date nights and professionals hosting business dinners."

A4 Miyazaki Wagyu Ribcap. (Photo: ASAP & Co)

The restaurant features a chef’s table, where diners can observe the craft of smoking. “The chef’s table mimics people sitting around a campfire. When you barbecue, the rule is that you cannot barbecue alone. Barbecues are a gathering,” Isrudy reasoned. 

An unusual, somewhat morbid, Beef Mortuary lets them see up close hunks of raw beef. It is where the meat ages and tenderises before undergoing the smoking process.

“We want to educate diners on what a good quality steak is supposed to taste like, including the different cuts, levels of doneness and their unique textures and flavours,” said Isrudy on his vision for the restaurant.  

Isrudy’s background in art is also evident throughout the restaurant. Hanging on the walls are various artworks inspired by famous pieces that narrate the story of beef and meat, including a print from Andy Warhol’s iconic Cow series.

Themed artworks, inspired by famous works, hang on the walls of the restaurant. (Photo: ASAP & Co)
The Beef Mortuary, where the meat ages and tenderises before undergoing the smoking process. (Photo: ASAP & Co)

Aside from ASAP & Co, Isrudy is also the co-owner of brunch cafe Mondays and Asian smokehouse Cherry & Oak. Mondays serves Modern European brunch classics, along with coffee and desserts. Cherry & Oak serves a meat-forward menu with Asian influences. Aside from smoked meat platters, it also serves fusion dishes such as Laksa Linguine, Nasi Lemak Bakar and Nusantara Aglio Olio. 

Cherry & Oak's beef smoke specialties. (Photo: Cherry & Oak)

“I wanted to open more restaurants which are Muslim-friendly yet welcoming to everyone,” Isrudy said on why he expanded his culinary businesses.

Interestingly, Isrudy is the great-grandson of Kader Sultan, who, back in the 1910s, was known as the “cattle king of Singapore”. A wealthy businessman, Kader Sultan was a cattle trader and had established the Straits Cattle Trading Company. “My great-grandfather had a lot of cattle, and I have a lot of beef in my inventory, so maybe some of his DNA was passed down,” Isrudy remarked with a small laugh.

The interior of Mondays cafe. (Photo: Mondays)
Mondays serves brunch classics along with coffee and desserts. (Photo: Mondays)

When not hard at work at the steakhouse, Isrudy is a passionate cyclist. He owns a total of 11 bicycles, from BMX bikes, gravel bikes, retro mountain bikes and more. While he used to do road cycling, these days, he prefers embarking on exciting off-road adventures instead. “Cycling in the forest relaxes my mind because it is very quiet. It’s less stress for me since there are no cars honking behind you. The only thing I need to look out for is wild boars!” he quipped.

On occasion, he also bike-packs to destinations such as Batam and Desaru. His most challenging journey to date was riding from Singapore to Malaysia on a fixed-gear bike. “Sometimes when I have a piece of good quality meat, I call up my friends and we cycle to the beach and have a small barbecue,” Isrudy added.

His preferred level of doneness for meat is "slightly under medium rare." "My wife prefers it rare. In fact, one of the reasons behind opening the restaurant was my wife's love for steak. She was always challenging me to make her an even better steak, and I believe I've done my part," Isrudy shared. The couple has four children, ranging in age from 16 to 3. He cooks steak so frequently for his family that, he joked, "even my youngest can distinguish between Wagyu and Angus beef!”

Isrudy is a passionate cyclist and enjoys embarking on off-road adventures. (Photo: Isrudy Shaik)

Isrudy hopes to expand ASAP & Co beyond Singapore. “We will start near first, maybe expand into Malaysia or Thailand. We already have customers from Malaysia, Brunei, Indonesia, Dubai and Saudi Arabia who dine here just to eat our steaks,” he shared.

His ultimate goal, however, is earning the Michelin star. “It’s not just me working towards that goal, but everyone on the team,” said Isrudy. Earning Michelin honours is a bold, ambitious dream, but the restaurant has already garnered other accolades. Recently, it was awarded the Diamond Award at the 2024 HalalTrip Gastronomy Awards. The Diamond distinction recognises establishments that have “set new benchmarks in halal dining, excelling in creative presentation, balance of flavours, quality of food and innovation in their menus,” according to its organiser.

Until that elusive star is in his hands, Isrudy is content in simply dishing out top-notch steaks for the steak-loving community. “The most important thing,” he said, “"is seeing my customers smile."

Source: CNA/st
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