Worn by Rihanna and Bollywood stars, his family’s been making fine jewellery for nearly a century
Rooted in Jaipur’s royal past, the history of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas dates back to the 1930s. With fourth-generation creative force Yash Agarwal now at the helm of the brand, the storied jeweller continues to shine as a beacon of Indian heritage and artistry.

Yash Agarwal is the creative director of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas. (Photo: CNA/Kelvin Chia)
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During the lavish Ambani wedding festivities of 2024, which marked the union of Anant Ambani (the youngest son of Indian tycoon Mukesh Ambani) to long-time girlfriend Radhika Merchant, jewellery took centre stage as guests were draped with some of the most breathtaking gems on show.
At a pre-wedding party, singer Rihanna performed wearing a pair of diamond and ruby paisley motif earrings. During a blessing ceremony, Bollywood actress Alia Bhatt stepped out in a striking statement polki (uncut diamonds) necklace set in gold, adorned with precious gemstones.
Both stars were dressed by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas, one of India’s most storied and prestigious jewellery houses, known for its opulent bridal and high jewellery creations. At the helm of the brand’s creative direction is Yash Agarwal, a fourth-generation member of the Birdhichand family.
Agarwal describes his designs as “bold” and “artistic”. “We have taken traditional Indian forms and motifs and translated them into a modern and contemporary style, making them easier for the women of today to wear,” Agarwal said of his design philosophy. “This evolution is not my work alone; it’s a continuation of what my predecessors have done. Together, we have become the preservers of Indian culture and art,” he continued.
JEWELS OF JAIPUR
Based in Jaipur, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas has a history dating back nearly a century. It was established in 1930 by Agarwal’s great-grandfather. “He was working with the royal family of Jaipur as the treasurer for the state jewels,” shared Agarwal.
When Maharaja Madho Singh II had an infant daughter, Agarwal’s great-grandfather was tasked with travelling around the world to curate gemstones and jewellery for the princess, ensuring a collection fit for her until her marriage. After leaving his post, he founded the business. “Since then, the family has always been in the business of gems and jewellery,” said Agarwal.
Growing up with gemstone talk “from the breakfast table to the dinner table”, Agarwal initially had no interest in joining the family trade, wanting to strike out on his own. But when his father took him to a jewellery exhibition in Dubai, he discovered his true calling.

After attaining a degree in commerce from Sydenham College, Mumbai, Agarwal pursued formal training in jewellery design and gemology at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). He also took up an internship with Tiffany & Co in 2005, which gave him valuable insights into the merging of Western and Eastern designs.
As a jewellery designer, Agarwal draws inspiration from a myriad of sources. “I live in the city of Jaipur, which is known for its beautiful architecture and rich heritage. The city itself inspires me a lot,” he shared.
Jaipur, often referred to as the “Pink City”, is known as the city of colour and gemstones. “This has always been in my genes and DNA,” quipped Agarwal. While he does not have a favourite gemstone, he finds himself particularly drawn to emeralds. “But I don’t limit myself,” he added. “At this point of time, I am very attracted to rubellites and white-coloured tourmalines, but it changes. It’s infatuation, I don’t call it love.”



"NEVER DESIGN TO PLEASE OTHERS"
The brand’s clientele primarily includes ultra-high net-worth individuals, hailing from all over the world. “They are the ones who really love art and artistic creations. If they want to wear gemstones only as a portrayal of wealth, then I’m not the right person for them," Agarwal remarked.
It also has a celebrity following. Aside from Rihanna and Alia Bhatt, other Bollywood stars who have worn its creations include Kareena Kapoor Khan, Ananya Panday and Deepika Padukone.
Agarwal draws inspiration for his designs from a simple principle his grandfather had instilled in him. “He used to say, never design to please others. When you design for yourself, you become an artist. That has always been our ethos. We design jewellery that we ourselves would be proud to wear.”
Agarwal says that one of the biggest challenges jewellery designers face today is the advent of social media and its impact on originality. “There’s such an overwhelming influx of designs constantly appearing which, out of habit, seep into your subconscious. You end up absorbing images of what others have already done.”
To counter this, Agarwal and his team have a firm policy against relying on online platforms like Pinterest or Instagram for inspiration. “We prefer to personally visit places and immerse ourselves in their heritage and culture. Only then do we transform those inspirations into our jewellery designs.”
MEANINGFUL COLLECTIONS
One of Agarwal’s proudest collections to date is called Amer, inspired by the forts and palaces of Rajasthan, particularly the Amer Fort. This iconic structure is a captivating blend of Hindu and Mughal architecture. “The fort’s design beautifully merges Hindu and Islamic cultural elements, which inspired me to create an entire collection,” Agarwal explained.
Another collection close to his heart is Adaa, which drew inspiration from iconic women of style in Indian history, such as Maharani Gayatri Devi, Princess Sita Devi, and Razia Sultan, the first female ruler of the Delhi Sultanate. “I imagined myself as a designer in their time and asked, ‘If I had my own design style, how would I style these women?’” shared Agarwal.


Agarwal takes pride is designing bold, statement pieces. “Life is too short to wear a boring piece of jewellery. You should always create your own style statement,” he believes.
“Life is too short to wear a boring piece of jewellery. You should always create your own style statement."
PRESERVING TRADITION, CREATING ART
Through the decades, Indian jewellery design has always been a significant source of inspiration for the global market. Prominent Western jewellers from Van Cleef & Arpels to Tiffany & Co and Cartier still heavily draw on Indian techniques, styles and motifs.
“India has a strong, distinct ethos in its design language, encompassing Indian motifs, art, culture, and craftsmanship – all of which are truly unique,” said Agarwal.
Even beyond jewellery, Indian motifs, such as the paisley, are often reimagined in Western design. “The world is beginning to recognise India as the geocenter for the motifs it shares with the world,” Agarwal added.

For Agarwal, his role as a jewellery designer goes beyond creating beautiful pieces; he sees himself and the brand as custodians of Indian art and culture. As a fourth-generation jeweller, he also carries the weight of his family legacy. “I have to keep the name alive,” he said. “But at the same time, I try not to worry about that. For me, it’s about having fun while creating beautiful designs.”
Agarwal envisions elevating jewellery from a mere display of wealth to a celebrated form of art. "Jewellery should be seen as a collection of art, not just a commodity," he believes. "I hope more people will appreciate and collect artistically oriented pieces, rather than choosing jewellery solely based on the size of the gemstones."