Biyan Wanaatmadja: How Indonesia’s couture visionary stayed in the fashion industry for 40 years

Biyan Wanaatmadja, who turned 70 in October, is one of Indonesia’s most celebrated and enduring fashion designers, known for his exquisite craftsmanship, attention to detail, and a deep cultural connection to his native country. Age seems not to stale his infinite creativity. In November, at the time when others might have embarked on comfortable cruises into the sunset, Biyan opened a lush, plant-filled, 2,000-sq-m wedding salon in the hip lifestyle enclave of Kemang in south Jakarta. As always the case with Biyan, it’s the last word in sophistication and style. With nearly four decades of experience in the fashion industry, Biyan’s work blends Indonesian heritage with Western couture to create timeless, elegant, and contemporary designs. His distinctive approach has earned him recognition both in his home country and internationally, solidifying his reputation as a key figure in the global fashion scene.

HOW IT ALL STARTED

Biyan Wanaatmadja was born 1954, and raised in Surabaya, East Java, where he developed an early appreciation for visual arts. Growing up under comfortable circumstances, he spent much of his time exploring nature, which profoundly influenced his romantic aesthetic and design philosophy. “When I was young, I always found myself outside, surrounding myself with nature. I loved playing outdoors,” Biyan recalls. “I’ve always been sure of the beauty of nature; it was more a question of how nature could apply its beauty to people.”

Initially set on studying architecture, Biyan moved to Germany to pursue his dream. However, he shifted his focus to design during his second semester, a turning point that led him to study fashion at M Muller & Sohn in Dusseldorf and later at the prestigious London College of Fashion. This is when he developed his signature aesthetic of Western fashion with an Indonesian twist. After spending about 15 years in Europe, Biyan returned to Indonesia, where he embarked on his fashion career.

FOUNDING BIYAN

In 1984, Biyan launched his eponymous label in Jakarta, followed by the establishment of his ready-to-wear line, Studio 133, in 1985. These early collections introduced modern takes on traditional Indonesian dress, such as the Sumatran baju kurung and kebaya, but re-imagined oversized with romantic layers of contrasting fabrics in asymmetrical cuts, designs that reflected the evolving tastes of the Indonesian women at the time. “We started creating ready-to-wear that had a modern traditional spirit,” Biyan said. The collections were well received. Over time, as tastes shifted, Biyan’s designs adapted to contemporary fashions of the moment while always maintaining traditional, artisanal details.

Today, Biyan operates 11 boutiques in Jakarta and Surabaya and employs around 400 people, many of whom have worked with him for over three decades. He shows twice a year for Biyan and Studio 133 Biyan, his ready-to-wear label, and designs about 10 collections every year. His team remains a core inspiration for his creativity, as he fondly remarked: “Those that started working with me 30 years ago are still with me today. They’re the ones that motivate me always to move forward.”

DESIGN PHILOSOPHY AND AESTHETIC

“I have dedicated my life’s work to the pursuit of beauty,” said the maestro. This pursuit has led him to the use of vibrant prints, delicate embroidery, patchwork silk, and lace embellishments creates a romantic and eclectic aesthetic. His garments often tell stories through fabric, where each piece reflects a sense of heritage and craftsmanship that speaks to his roots in Indonesia, as well as his years of experience in Europe. Each of his pieces revolves around the craftsmanship of its creation, where he expresses his creative ethos through a vast array of painstaking material treatments, from embroidery and applique to pleating, beading and cut-outs. He translates culture and beauty into incredibly refined pieces that celebrate a balance between East and West. Through exploring age-old Indonesian traditions and fabrics Biyan has developed a nuanced artisanship.

The Biyan woman, as the designer describes, is elegant yet free-spirited, unafraid to explore new boundaries – essentially, a romantic. “The Biyan woman loves to move and feel free. She likes to explore and keeps an open mind. She appreciates the finer things while also being daring. Yes, she’s elegant, but she’s also a free spirit,” he explained. For Biyan, the essence of his designs lies in their versatility and the freedom women have to mix and match his creations in their own way, making each piece uniquely their own.

As the designer reflects on his long career, he notes that his aim has always been to create clothes that combine modernity with timeless beauty. “I’m inspired to create clothes that are more modern yet still have an essential classic beauty,” he said. “My pieces are meant to evolve with time, and I love seeing how they are worn in new ways.”

INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION

Biyan’s breakthrough into the international market came in 1998 during a period of political unrest in Indonesia. Amid this turbulence, he received an offer to showcase his collections at a multi-brand boutique, The Link, in Singapore — a pivotal moment that marked his first international retail venture. Though global expansion presented its challenges, Biyan’s perseverance paid off. His work is now available in numerous high-end retailers across Asia and the Middle East, with notable stockists from as far afield as America and China, with Lane Crawford, and Joyce Boutiques in Hong Kong and Shanghai, and Club 21 boutiques in Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand.

TIMELESS BRIDAL COLLECTIONS

In 2007, Biyan expanded his brand with the launch of his bridal collection, a move that solidified his reputation for creating elegant, ethereal gowns. Known for their intricate details and refined artistry, Biyan’s bridal designs offer a sophisticated alternative to traditional eveningwear, capturing both romance and modernity.

Despite the changing nature of fashion, Biyan remains committed to his core values. “As I mature over time, I don’t engage in the trendier aspects of fashion anymore,” he said. “I’m more of an organic designer now. I love just seeing where my designs take me, how they transform with the times and still keep the essence of beauty they had from the beginning.” His creations have taken on an artistic veneer, and have acquired the beauty of painting or sculpture, for Biyan is an artist at heart, and an avid art collector in leisure.

LEGACY AND CONTINUING INSPIRATION

Biyan’s remarkable journey from Surabaya to international acclaim is a testament to his dedication, creativity, and adaptability. With four decades in fashion, his designs have become a hallmark of Indonesian couture and have influenced countless well-heeled women who appreciate beauty without sacrificing freedom in their clothing.

His approach to fashion has never been about following trends but about creating timeless pieces that resonate with the spirit of the wearer. As he moves into the next chapter of his career, Biyan’s legacy continues to inspire, with his designs serving as a bridge between cultures and an embodiment of both tradition and innovation.

The bridal and occasional wear is available at the newly opened Biyan The Gallery at Jalan Ampera Raya 14, Jakarta.

The latest collections for Biyan and Studio 133 Biyan are available at https://www.biyan.com