Breitling CEO on building a cool, sporty chic watch brand: ‘The industry is super dusty’
Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling, sits down with CNA Luxury to talk about the growth of the brand, the meaning of neo-luxury and how he wants Breitling to stand out in a conservative watch industry.
“What do you think of our boutique?” quipped Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling. It was one of the first questions he asked me as we settled in for this interview at Breitling’s Raffles City flagship boutique in Singapore.
At first glance, the boutique doesn’t feel like a watch showroom, I told Kern. What struck me the most was its welcoming atmosphere, with a large, open space. Designed with a modern retro style, it feels like steeping into a loft apartment. “Everything is open, and that was a deliberate choice,” said Kern, adding that the goal is to ensure that customers don't feel intimidated to come in. “We want customers to feel good because Breitling is a feel-good company,” he said.
The design of Breitling’s boutiques is an indication of Kern’s direction for the company since taking the helm in 2017. Prior to heading Breitling, of which Kern is also a shareholder, the former Richemont veteran was involved with brands such as A Lange & Sohne and Jaeger-LeCoultre. He was largely credited for building IWC Schaffhaussen into a global success.
Breitling, known for its Navitimer, Chronomat and Avenger collections, has its roots in aviation. But in recent years, Kern has been steadily transforming Breitling from a niche aviation brand into a mainstream one. “We are a cool and relaxed brand,” said Kern. “Our advertising reflects what we call ‘inclusive luxury.’ While we may be exclusive in terms of price or distribution, we aim to be inclusive in how we communicate.”
Key to Breitling’s advertising efforts are its brand ambassadors, or what it calls “squads”. They range from sports stars in the field of surfing, triathlon, football and basketball, to actress Charlize Theron and ballet dancer Misty Copeland.
It’s a strategy that is working well for Breitling. In a 2023 industry report on top Swiss watch brands by Morgan Stanley, Breitling ranked in ninth position. It ranked at 19th in 2017.
“People buy an image and they love our brand image. The other Swiss watch brands are super conservative. The industry is super dusty, it’s really boring. But we are not like this,” Kern asserted.
In 2024, Breitling celebrates its 140th anniversary through a campaign titled 140 Year of Firsts. Throughout the year, the brand will recount untold stories behind its momentous firsts and other milestones.
Kern shares more about the mission of Breitling and why building a successful watch brand in the luxury industry is akin to cooking.
How would you describe the DNA of Breitling?
Breitling is the inventor of the [wrist-worn] chronograph. People don’t know that. Everything related to the modern chronograph with its two pushers was invented by Breitling. There's a huge craftsmanship DNA. There’s certainly an outdoor sports and aviation DNA but I think sports chic is what we stand for today.
Who is the typical Breitling customer?
That’s an interesting question because, in the past and still with some brands today, there was a focus on targeting customers based on income level, gender, or age. We don’t want that. Our goal is to cater to a particular style rather than a specific demographic. Whether you're a fan of Triumph motorbikes or enjoy outdoor sports like surfing, whether you're 20 or 60, male or female, we embrace a lifestyle approach over a socio-economic one.
Today, customers first connect with a brand and then select a design they like within that brand’s offerings before considering the watch's function. You are either a fan of Armani or Versace. You either like BMW or Mercedes. Once you've identified with a brand, you choose the model that suits you. This approach has shifted significantly from 30 years ago, when watch buyers would first choose a movement and design, before choosing a brand.
Your mission with Breitling is to create a neo-luxury brand. What does that mean?
First of all, the world is changing. We had the COVID-19 pandemic. Now we have wars. We have major instability around the world. The way we communicated luxury 30 years ago wouldn’t be appropriate today.
When we talk about neo-luxury, it is about casual luxury. It is also about inclusive luxury, meaning the brand has to be approachable. Thirdly, it’s about sustainable luxury. Today, you cannot run a brand without doing the maximum in sustainability. These are the fundamental values that are important in today’s environment.
Yes, sustainability is important for Breitling, as seen when it launched the new packaging.
We’re selling watches, not packaging, but we give consumers the choice. They can still order the classic packaging or get the new packaging that’s environmentally friendly. But less than one per cent of our clients are asking for the old packaging. We want to sell beautiful watches, not packaging that you throw away.
Tell us the reasons behind the revamp of the Avenger collection.
The Avenger is the toughest product that we have; it’s the most brutal. I always use the Avenger to show how our design codes have changed, which has now evolved to modern retro and sports chic. Previously, Breitling was like a Hummer car, very cool, but very niche. Today, we are like a Range Rover, Mercedes or Porsche SUV. A Porsche Cayenne is sports chic, a Hummer is not sports chic. This is how the brand has changed in tonality and style. Now, we also have many more women’s watches.
Are women’s watches a growing segment for Breitling, especially with the recent collaboration with Victoria Beckham?
That collection was very successful. We used yellow gold instead of rose gold, infused with Victoria Beckham’s signature colours and style. We are going to do other collaborations in the female segment.
We want to be the relaxed and cool alternative for women in the watch industry as we are for men. We are not into romantic or “flower power” themes. When you see a Breitling woman, you see her self-confidence.
What are some trends you’ve noticed in the watch industry?
The size of watches are going smaller. We are also seeing a comeback of yellow gold. The market has also become more colourful. We don’t have just black or blue, now we have ice blue, green, mint green, which I I think reflects society’s need for colour. Breitling has been doing colours since the beginning of 2017. We are a happy brand.
As an industry veteran, what do you think makes a successful watch brand?
In the luxury industry, you create a need. You create a product, style or design, and suddenly, people want it. These days, you can’t test the success of a product with consumer research. Everything is intuitive. It’s a feeling in the stomach, and the beauty of it is when your stomach feeling is right. It’s like cooking. You go to the kitchen, you open the fridge and you put in your ingredients and some salt, pepper, paprika…the food either tastes good or it doesn’t. And Breitling’s “food” tastes very good.
Breitling is celebrating its 140th anniversary this year. What can we expect?
We have lots of activities. We are opening a pop-up museum in Zurich, we have published a book called 140 Years in 140 Stories. At the end of August, we will launch a limited series of 140 pieces each of our iconic models featuring a new in-house movement – it's going to be something very special. So we have a travelling exhibition and new products to talk about this incredible brand and its roots.
What does luxury mean to you?
It's a reward. At least for me, you know you're successful when you buy something for yourself. Whether it's a car or a watch, they give us a feel good sentiment. I think we need these moments in life.
Do you have a favourite Breitling model?
If you are just starting your Breitling collection, I would go for either the Navitimer or the Chronomat. These are the watches I wear the most.
Lastly, a fun question – if you were a Breitling watch, which would you be?
Probably the Chronomat. It’s the most versatile watch, and I hope that I am versatile.