This chef behind Potager, one of KL’s more talked about new restaurants, is in love with Malaysia’s quality produce
Executive chef of Potager, Masashi Horiuchi, reveals the aspirations behind Potager and how it celebrates local produce, art, and gastronomy.
Since the Michelin Guide debuted in Kuala Lumpur, the city’s already vibrant fine dining scene seems to have levelled up. One of the year's most anticipated openings is undoubtedly Potager, a crafted space nestled in the heart of Bamboo Hills, a dining enclave built on a lushly landscaped 16-acre site.
Opened in November 2023, Potager is led by executive chef Masashi Horiuchi, who is also behind the well-loved modern French restaurant Entier in Alila Bangsar. Horiuchi, whose culinary journey began in Europe, has worked in Switzerland, France, and the UK, where he crossed paths with renowned chef Joel Robuchon and served as sous chef for the two Michelin-starred L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon in London for five years.
The decision to move to Malaysia came after exploring job opportunities in Europe and Singapore. Intrigued by the abundance of quality produce in Malaysia, the chef seized the opportunity presented by Platform Hospitality Group to create a restaurant from scratch, leading to the birth of Entier.
With Potager, it was a new outlet for Horiuchi to explore his admiration for Malaysia's abundant high-quality produce.
“Potager simply means a kitchen garden, a place where the growing is respected and nurtured. And we wanted to really shine a light on the many hands that laboured ̶ from the farmers to artists, growers and the chefs ̶ everything that makes the dining experience cohesive and beautiful,” he explained.
Indeed, Potager offers a holistic experience that is truly one of a kind in Kuala Lumpur. “From the harmonious flow of the space to the incorporation of local art and artisans; the produce and talent that we highlight to the level of service we provide from the moment you make a reservation until you leave our restaurant. We pay homage to all the ingredients that are sourced, presenting them in delicious and creative ways,” he enthused.
At Potager, the menu marries Japanese precision and French finesse, influenced by his culinary school education in France. That’s not all. Horiuchi’s culinary identity is also deeply rooted in his childhood memories in Japan, where 'Western' cuisine incorporated touches of both French and Japanese influences. Growing up in a family connected to agriculture, the compote served in Potager reflects his grandfather's recipe..
The restaurant’s commitment to sourcing local ingredients underscores the beauty and variety of Malaysian produce, with every dish telling a story of the country's agricultural richness, from guinea fowl to figs. The menu itself is a dynamic canvas, which, while not strictly adhering to seasonal changes, evolves to captivate diners with exciting presentations of local ingredients. The corn dish stands out among the culinary symphony as Horiuchi's heartful creation. Inspired by a visit to Cameron Highlands, the dish encapsulates childhood memories, presenting corn in its entirety – kernel and bract in consommé, cob and husk in corn jelly, harmonising in a bowl.
The diverse team of chefs, each contributing their unique perspectives, further enhances the culinary tapestry. “For example, our head of pastry, chef Nico Ooi, draws inspiration from his childhood memories, infusing the surprise sorbet palate cleanser with the tropical fruit flavours he grew up with,” he explains.
Living up to its name, Potager has a small kitchen garden which is tended by a dedicated team growing herbs and edible flowers incorporated into the menu. The collaborative effort extends to the chefs' input on the types of greens planted, which contributes to the flourishing of this culinary oasis. Guests stepping outside the main dining space can stroll through the lush garden beds, connecting with the restaurant's essence.
Conceived as a truly immersive dining experience, Potager is a convergence of gastronomy and the arts, where the restaurant's philosophy is reflected in every aspect of the space. “Singapore-based design consultancy 932 Design helped us bring all these ideas to life. Throughout the space, the intention is to pay homage to every ingredient, producer, artist, and partner involved in making the Potager experience possible, telling the stories about their provenance and journeys,” mused Horiuchi.
Indeed, Potager’s motto of “Celebrating The Hands That Laboured” applies not just to the plate but also to how the team worked with many Malaysian creatives, from the serene central courtyard created by Penang-based landscape studio Sputnik Forest to floral artist Zahuohang’s feature wall sculptures fashioned from cyperus blooms, and rustic ceramics by James Seet and Marisa Ng, as well as paintings by emerging artists such as Nasrul Rokes, Alicia Lau, Adli Nazrin and Mulaika, juxtaposing marble, timber and terrazzo – every single element has been thoughtfully curated for the space.
Potager's team strikes a harmonious balance, combining experienced members from Entier with fresh additions to create a dynamic family. The collaborative spirit extends to Espace, Potager's platform for experimentation and boundary-pushing collaborations with guest chefs, where Horiuchi aims to bring unique and enriching experiences to the Malaysian dining community. While these plans begin to take shape, Horiuchi has simple but profound hopes for diners who dine at Potager in the meantime: “I am a firm believer in “Ichi-go Ichi-e”, which is a Japanese philosophy of treasuring the nature of a moment, with the understanding that everything within that space in time, happens only once.” Here, guests are invited to be fully present, savouring every nuance of the space, the team's welcome, and the sensory journey through each dish and drink.