Why Michelin-starred Chef Tam’s Seasons in Macau changes its menu every 15 days

No meal at Chef Tam’s Seasons is ever the same. If you don’t visit within two weeks of your last meal, that is. Nestled in Wynn Palace Macau, Chef Tam’s Seasons has made a name for itself from the moment it opened its doors to guests for its ever-evolving menu, a feat attributed to the culinary prowess of chef Tam Kwok Fung.

For chef Tam, change is not merely a necessity; it is also a passion. With each new iteration of his menu, he embarks on a journey of culinary exploration, pushing the boundaries of traditional Cantonese cuisine while paying homage to its rich heritage. But what exactly does it take to curate and execute a Michelin-starred menu every 15 days?

24 SOLAR TERMS

For the uninitiated, the concept of the 24 solar terms was created by the ancient Chinese. They divided the year into equal segments (15 days) based on the Earth’s movements around the sun, allowing them to perceive and structure subsequent changes in nature over the seasons throughout the solar year. This concept allowed them to better understand their environment and apply this knowledge to guide agricultural affairs and farming activities.

“I conceptualised Chef Tam’s Seasons in the direction of 24 solar terms for Cantonese cuisine. In spring and summer, there are certain vegetables [available] only for this season especially in Guangdong. I wanted to do something unique and different,” he said. Drawing inspiration from the ancient wisdom of the 24 solar terms, chef Tam orchestrates a symphony of flavours that mirror the ever-changing tapestry of nature. Each dish utilises fresh, locally sourced ingredients to encapsulate the essence of that time of year.

For chef Tam, the 24 solar terms serve not only as a framework for menu creation but also as a testament to the profound connection between food and nature. By preserving the spirit of the micro-changes of climate in each season that are iconic to Cantonese cuisine, he has created a unique culinary philosophy unto itself.

“I think many people believe that changing the menu is ambitious, but for me, Chef Tam’s Seasons is the smallest restaurant in terms of size in all my years working as a chef. Compared to other restaurants I’ve worked in — some of which go up to more than 170 seats — there are only about 40 plus seats in total here at Chef Tam’s Seasons, so we can really concentrate our energy and efforts to create the best seasonal dining experience for every guest. Rather than seeing it as a challenge, it’s quite interesting and fun for me. Plus, the average age of our team is quite young, so they have sufficient energy to handle the work, which includes learning on the job daily.”

INGREDIENTS MAY CHANGE BUT TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES STILL REIGN

Even though the menu changes, there are some fundamental elements that are adhered to to ensure consistency and efficiency in the kitchen. “The dishes change every 15 days, but I focus on crafting dishes based on traditional techniques and methods of Cantonese cuisine. I then add seasonal vegetables and fruits and come up with different combinations with the proteins, for example meat and seafood. This ensures that even though the ingredients and combinations are different, there’s still an anchor of tradition in the cooking.”

He elaborated: “We will be faithful to the traditional practice, but we also have a lot of fresh techniques here at Chef Tam’s Seasons, complete with some combinations that other restaurants would not have done.” The baby pigeon, for instance, is served in many other restaurants, but chef Tam chooses to use sand ginger to go with it, a unique seasoning technique used in Guangdong. Wynn Palace, where Chef Tam’s Seasons is located, also places a strong focus on highlighting and showcases Chinese wines. “We have a menu of seasonal Chinese teas, and a menu of Chinese wines, all of which have a lot of interesting elements.”

In a rapidly evolving culinary landscape, chef Tam’s is committed to uphold the traditional techniques.

“One of the dishes that was commonly served in Hong Kong and Macau in the 1980s for banquets, especially in the winter, is Pot Cooked Abalone and Sea Cucumber. In fact, a lot of older Cantonese folks will remember having this dish. Still, due to the economic environment and the limitations of kitchens and chefs, the original highlight of this traditional dish has diminished. The abalone and vegetables are served separately. Abalone is to be tasted first and then the vegetables are to be dipped and eaten with the remaining sauce of the abalone, which is an old style from the 1980s.”

TEAMWORK MAKES THE DREAM WORK

Those who have dipped their toes into the world of F&B will know that running a restaurant isn’t an easy feat. In fine dining, not only are the kitchen staff trained to serve each dish with precision, but the front-of-house must be equipped to skilfully explain dishes to guests, and answer any queries they might have when it comes to ingredients and techniques.

“Every time we change the menu, we will first list all the unique seasonal elements, and then discuss them with both our kitchen and the service team,” chef Tam explained. “We look at whether we can harmonise seasoning and presentation before we decide on each dish. Of course, we also consider the wine pairing and seasonal tea pairing to see if there is any inconsistency, and whether there is a reasonable echo. Sometimes, we think of a dish that is seasonal in terms of ingredients, but if the handling time is not feasible, we will drop the idea. For example, some meat needs to be cooked for a long time, and that impacts the serving time of each dish, so we have to think again. In addition, the overall dining experience consists of teamwork and communication between the service team and the kitchen, which decides whether the delicacies can be presented in a very standard manner.”

EFFORTS RECOGNISED

Chef Tam has a list of accolades under his belt: Chef Tam’s Seasons has one Michelin star in the bag (not counting those from his stints at other restaurants) as well as a spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 (Number 49, if you were wondering). He was also the first in Macau to be crowned Chef of the Year by the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide 2023. The Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, launched in 2018 by Chinese e-commerce platform Meituan, is an annual restaurant guide that focuses on Chinese culinary preferences, listing top restaurants in both domestic and international cities.

For a chef who has served dignitaries, from politicians to royalty across his years of experience — more than 30 years in fact — chef Tam remains humble and down-to-earth. “While I’m extremely thankful for every accolade and title that the restaurant, the team and I have been given, I make it a point to constantly remind myself and the team that it’s the recognition of one year of hard work. Instead of focusing on what we’ve already achieved, we have to put in our best effort at all times for the next year. After all, the benchmarks are different and ever-changing; all we can do is simply do our best and focus on the dining experience for the guests.”

Chef Tam attributes the success and differentiating factor the restaurant has to teamwork. “Even though our restaurant has only been open for less than a year – I've been at Wynn for seven or eight years – most of my team have been working with me for years. We have a deep bond, and we are more understanding of each other.”