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This bartender's cocktail bar in Kuala Lumpur made it to Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023 list within its debut year

Have a drink at Jon Lee’s intimate Penrose bar where classic cocktails are made with impeccable precision and ingredients.

In the fickle Kuala Lumpur bar scene, the name Jon Lee is established enough among cocktail aficionados to have a loyal following. So, it didn’t come as much of a surprise when Penrose, the bar Lee founded in 2022, took a place in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023 list within the first year of its debut.

What is surprising is that Lee did not start with aspirations of being a bartender but as a chef. “I embarked on my professional journey in the restaurant industry right after completing my culinary arts degree. At the age of 21, I chose to establish a small bistro. However, after around a year, the business faced challenges, prompting me to temporarily step away from the culinary scene,” recalled Lee.

Despite this setback, Lee’s passion for the food and beverage field persisted, so he sought out opportunities in the bar sector, and during his training, an unexpected job offer came from Singapore. “While bartending wasn't initially my ambition, the pieces seemed to fall into place. Taking a bold step, I decided to embrace the opportunity and relocate to Singapore, despite being uncertain about what lay ahead,” he said.

The opportunity in Singapore turned out to be at the highly lauded Tippling Club, where Lee learned and honed his skills under its head bartender at that time, Joe Scholfield. Lee also credits its mercurial owner, chef Ryan Clift, with showing him the world of fine food and drink and guiding him with ferocious tenacity.

When the pandemic struck, Lee returned to Malaysia and, amid the lockdown, crossed paths with his current partners at Wildflowers, a contemporary restaurant in Kuala Lumpur’s Chinatown. “Through time, our camaraderie grew, and one of them threw out the idea: ‘What if we opened a bar in Chinatown?’ The proposal stirred up excitement in me, as I had been nurturing the concept of Penrose for quite a while,” he said. “However, the reality was that constructing a new bar required substantial time investment, and I also had reservations about delving into the Malaysian bar scene. Therefore, we collectively concluded that it might be wiser for me to kick things off by revitalising the Wildflowers bar programme.”

Even though Lee’s first foray into entrepreneurship hadn’t worked out, his passion for launching businesses remained undimmed. Penrose would mark his fourth venture. “Among all my endeavours, it is the most intricately planned and finely crafted enterprise. I think many bartenders and chefs reach a stage where they yearn for a space to showcase their creativity truly, and that's precisely what Penrose represents for me,” stated Lee.

Jon Lee dreamed up the concept of what Penrose should be, including the interior design. (Photo: Penrose)
(Photo: Penrose)

From the outset, Lee precisely envisioned Penrose's character, with design and functionality taking centre stage. To illustrate his ideas effectively, he even compiled a presentation for designers that truly captured his essence. Despite consulting with four other interior designers, none fully grasped the concept he aimed to bring to life. This was until he met Jun Ong and Kyle E from POW ideas who not only comprehended Lee’s vision but were also incredibly enthusiastic to be part of it. The designers created an intriguing entrance with a steampunk feel with a minimalist space seating an intimate 25 people, designed to put the bartender centre stage. “While my vision laid the foundation, it's undeniable that Penrose wouldn't have taken on its current form without the invaluable contributions of Jun and Kyle. Their involvement exceeded everyone's expectations, making the outcome truly exceptional,” Lee enthused.

Chic interiors aside, the star of the show is undeniably Penroses’s drinks menu which comprises timeless classics incorporating carefully chosen ingredients. The bar’s signature cocktail, the Rum Musa, a drink made using the Malaysian banana plant, from its fruit, peel, leaves, and even flower, encapsulates the bar’s ethos. “The distillation process with dark rum, burnt butter, and aged sherry makes this drink a Malaysian favourite while encompassing a timeless flavour that resonates with everyone and is closely related to the classic banana daiquiri,” explained Lee. “We believe that flavour has a significant impact on memory, culture, and emotion. Therefore, we base all our drinks on relatable flavours. We do not create experimental ingredients; we believe the best cocktails are made with familiar and delicious flavours.”

Rum Musa (Photo: Penrose)

Lee continues that Penrose can draw from a wealth of source material as there are thousands of classic cocktails in the world. However, he notes that if they do make the decision to divert from this, they would still stick to their philosophy of making drinks better. “I believe the only thing that will evolve is our palate as we drink and eat more in our lifetime. Hence it does develop but in a way that is quite personal with our guests and the flavours we will express in the future.” he said.

Poire Belle (Photo: Penrose)

Along with Penrose, the revered Bar Trigona at the Four Seasons was also on Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023, making it their sixth year in a row. Lee believes the success of this vibrant Kuala Lumpur bar scene owes a debt to the trailblazers who introduced the cocktail culture to Malaysia when the concept was still in its infancy. “Establishments such as Coleys, Three X Co, and Jungle Bird played a pivotal role in laying the foundation for the growth of subsequent bars,” he opined.

As for how making it on Asia's Best bars affected business, Lee is pleased but unperturbed. “Even prior to receiving awards, we've fostered wonderful connections with our guests, and our schedule has consistently been quite hectic. Things have become even more dynamic since the awards were bestowed upon us. Nevertheless, my team and I remain committed to upholding high standards of quality, consistency, and excellence,” he smiled.

The entrance to the bar. (Photo: Penrose)

These high standards include service with a side of education and empathy. “Cocktails may sometimes seem daunting but our mission is to dispel those apprehensions. We aim to embody both empathy and professionalism in our bartending, hoping to inspire our patrons to approach the world of bars and restaurants in Malaysia with greater openness,” said Lee. “Even if a guest's preferences may not align perfectly with a particular drink or establishment, we encourage a spirit of understanding and willingness to explore.”

As for how Penrose may evolve, Lee firmly believes that Penrose will always stand as a classic cocktail bar. “We're dedicated to keeping the classics alive while ensuring every visit is a consistent and top-notch experience. While we have exciting plans for new venues down the road, Penrose will still maintain our flagship.”

Source: CNA/bt

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