This restaurateur’s modern Keralan food was recognised by the Malaysian Michelin Guide two years in a row

In the heart of bustling Kuala Lumpur amid an ultra-competitive F&B landscape, Meriam Alfonso is making waves in the culinary world with her celebrated restaurant Kayra and its coastal-themed sibling, Coast by Kayra. Born into a family with deep culinary roots, Meriam’s passion for Keralan cuisine is both a personal and professional journey that began long before she ever opened a restaurant.

Meriam’s story is steeped in the rich tradition of Keralan food culture. “Growing up as the youngest in a large family, my life revolved around Kerala Restaurant, the family business my grandfather started in Johor Bahru in 1949,” she explained. This early exposure to the restaurant industry ignited her passion for food and hospitality. Her formative years were spent surrounded by the aromas and flavours of Keralan cooking, a heritage that has profoundly influenced her culinary journey.

Meriam’s fascination with Keralan cuisine has always been at the forefront of her career. She spent years refining and reinventing traditional recipes, striving to add a modern element while maintaining their authenticity. This dedication culminated in the opening of Kayra in 2016 in suburban Taman Tun Dr Ismail, Kuala Lumpur. “In Kayra, I had the privilege of curating menus and bouncing ideas off our talented executive chef, Sal Sabeel,” she said.

The name “Kayra” is derived from the root word of Kerala, “Kera”, which means land of coconut. “Kayra reflects the authentic and contemporary essence of our cuisine, drawn from memories of flavour and recipes handed down to provide a unique culinary journey through Kerala's rich flavours and traditions,” Meriam explained. This name symbolises the central role of coconut in Keralan cuisine, a theme that is evident in many of Kayra’s dishes.

In 2019, Kayra moved to a more prominent location in an upmarket neighbourhood mall, Bangsar Village, a charmingly decked-out space decorated with murals and warm, welcoming colours. “We decided to move Kayra to Bangsar Village to enhance the dining experience and reach a broader audience. The move allowed us to provide our patrons with a more accessible and comfortable environment,” she said. This move has allowed Kayra to continue its mission of bringing the rich flavours of Kerala to a wider audience, combining traditional recipes with contemporary presentations.

Meriam describes Kayra’s food as “modern Keralan cuisine”, which aptly encapsulate the hearty yet elegantly presented dishes found there. “While it stays true to the traditional flavours and techniques of Kerala, as that can be seen from our more traditional big plates, yet it introduces contemporary elements and presentation styles, setting it apart from conventional Kerala food,” said Meriam. “For me growing up with a big family, communal table dinning is what I remember and the dishes created in Kayra was essentially driven by that. Take for example, fish moilee is a comfort dish for me, and communal style dining sits at the heart of every Malaysian, and so we took these elements and came up with something that was comforting and yet flavourful, something everyone would enjoy together and today we know Kayra, is known for its Fish Moilee Biryani.”

This delicious interpretation has found loyal fans among Kuala Lumpur’s diverse demographic and garnered the restaurant recognition from the Michelin Guide in their Michelin Selected list for 2022 and 2023. “Since its inception, Kayra has continuously refined its menu and dining experience to meet the growing expectations of its patrons. This evolution is evident in its consistent recognition by the Michelin Guide," Meriam shared. Indeed, the accolades have increased visibility and credibility, attracting more diners to experience Michelin-recognised Keralan cuisine.

The success of Kayra inspired Meriam to open Coast by Kayra at The Starhill in Bukit Bintang, a high-traffic area known for its shopping malls and tourist attractions. Coast by Kayra focuses on the nautical heritage of Kerala and offers a sea-to-plate dining experience that highlights the vibrant seafood offerings of the Malabar coast. “The idea of opening Coast by Kayra emerged from our desire to explore and showcase the unique culinary heritage of the Malabar Coast in a more focused and distinctive manner,” Meriam said. The restaurant features charcoal grills and an innovative selection of vegetarian dishes, catering to diverse palates.

Since it opened its doors in January this year, Coast has continued in Kayra’s successful trajectory and the restaurant is constantly packed with regulars and new fans. Meriam’s recommendations if one dines there are Coast-exclusive specialities like Mini Appam with Sea Tiger Prawns or Mushroom & Coconut, Lobster Ulartiyath, Shellfish Malabar Masala and whole Grouper Pollichatthu.

Kayra's unassuming yet remarkable rise to become the darling of food aficionados, with reservations being an absolute necessity, is a testament to Meriam's unwavering dedication to her culinary roots and her innovative approach to elevating Keralan cuisine, which has garnered her a devoted following. She also highlighted how both Kayra and Coast by Kayra have thrived under the leadership of head chef Sal Sabeel and manager Anthony Augustine. “The journey has been intense, challenging, and dynamic. The highlights include tapping into our collective creativity and building our Kayra family,” she reflected.

This single-minded dedication to showcasing the flavours of Kerala has enriched the culinary landscape of Kuala Lumpur. Her restaurants speak volumes of the enduring appeal of Keralan cuisine, offering diners a memorable and delightful culinary journey. As Meriam looks to the future, she envisions further innovations and continued growth, with the possibility of expanding to new locations, including potentially returning to her roots in Johor Bahru and even across the Causeway to Singapore.

A tale woven with passion, heritage, and culinary mastery, Meriam Alfonso's narrative unfolds through Kayra and Coast by Kayra, where she pays homage to her family's legacy while fearlessly pushing the boundaries of Keralan cuisine. Her journey is a celebration of tradition and innovation, bringing the rich flavours of Kerala to the world stage.