How a former aerospace engineer made a 186-year-old Swiss clockmaker cool again

Swiss clockmaker L’Epee 1839 captivated the audience with its innovative kinetic masterpieces that seamlessly bridge the worlds of horology and art at this year’s Art SG, which was held in January 2025 at Marina Bay Sands. Themed Sculpted Time: The Art of Kinetic Horology, this showcase – presented in partnership with specialist watch retailer The Hour Glass ­– highlighted the maison’s unparalleled expertise in reimagining clocks as interactive sculptures that invite one to engage with time as a measure and muse.

Among the standout pieces on display were the Albatross, an ultra-complex 17kg steampunk airship inspired by Jules Verne’s Robur the Conqueror; Starfleet Explorer, a table clock in the guise of an intergalactic spaceship; and the futuristic spherical Orb – all of which were developed in collaboration with avant-garde Swiss watchmaker MB&F.

The exhibition was a fitting stage for L’Epee 1839, which has spent the last 185 years redefining the art of clockmaking. Under the leadership of its CEO and creative director Arnaud Nicolas, the company has evolved from a traditional clockmaking house into Switzerland’s only manufacture to specialise in one-of-a-kind, high-end kinetic horological artworks. In Singapore to attend Art SG, Nicolas sat down with CNA Luxury to chat about the journey of reviving the storied brand, the artistry behind its creations, and what the future holds following its 2024 acquisition by LVMH, the world’s largest luxury goods conglomerate.

A STORIED PAST

Founded in 1839 by Auguste L’Epee, the brand began as a specialist in music boxes and high-precision watch components before becoming synonymous with luxury table timepieces and carriage clocks. For almost two centuries, L’Epee has been the go-to clockmaker for royalty and governments and is frequently commissioned to create bespoke gifts for elite guests worldwide.

“L’Epee has always been tied to power and prestige,” Nicolas explained. “For decades, its clocks were presented as official gifts by the French and English governments, so many influential figures from around the world own a L’Epee clock.” The brand’s history of creating customised masterpieces for heads of state underscores its reputation as a purveyor of the extraordinary. But sadly, even a maison as illustrious as L’Epee wasn’t immune to challenges. By the early 2000s, traditional clocks had fallen out of favour, and the future looked uncertain for the manufacture.

A BEER AND A CRAZY IDEA

Nicolas didn’t set out to be the saviour of Swiss clockmaking – the opportunity arose almost by chance. He recalled: “We were at a bar having a beer when my business partner mentioned that L’Epee, one of Switzerland’s last independent clockmakers, was at risk of fading into obscurity. We went silent for two minutes, looked at each other, and said, ‘Let’s buy it!’” What began as a spontaneous decision would become a 16-year journey to reinvent the very concept of a clock.

However, Nicolas’ journey to revitalise the brand was far from smooth. “In the beginning, retailers hung up on me the moment I mentioned clocks. No one wanted them,” he admitted. Undeterred, the former aerospace engineer leaned into his vision, rethinking every aspect of clockmaking to transform the functional objects into evocative works of art.

What ultimately changed minds was when Nicolas decided to stop pitching and let the clocks speak for themselves. “When I placed one of our timepieces in front of the distributors, they’d stare at it in disbelief and ask, ‘Is this is really a clock?’ That’s when they began to understand what I saw and I knew we were on to something.”

When asked if he ever imagined making clocks cool again after acquiring L’Epee, Nicolas confidently replied: “Yes. When we purchased L’Epee in June 2009, I’d been looking for a clock for my home for some time, but I never found anything. They were all somehow boring, standard square objects... Nicely made, but not appealing. Something was missing.” That “something” became Nicolas’ mission to rediscover and with this vision, transformed L’Epee into a playground of creativity, transitioning from traditional clockmaking to becoming the leader of kinetic horological art today.

EXPRESSING TIME... THE L’EPEE WAY

For Nicolas, clockmaking is a rare discipline where science and art converge. “That’s why I left the aerospace industry,” he revealed. “For a scientist, aerospace is fascinating, but there is little room for artistic expression. Watchmaking is one of the only fields in which precision engineering and creativity coexist.”

Nicolas believes that true artistry must do one of three things: Evoke, inspire, or shock. “A piece of art has to speak to people,” he said. “It needs to tell a story, make them think, or stir an emotional response.” This philosophy runs through every L’Epee creation, ensuring that each clock isn’t merely a functional object, but a statement piece that makes time unforgettable.

One L’Epee clock that encapsulates this ethos perfectly is the Grenade – a compact, mantel timepiece. “We didn’t create the Grenade to emphasise war. Instead, its design turns an object associated with destruction into a poignant reminder of the preciousness of time and to seize the moment.” In Nicolas’ reinterpretation, the Grenade’s defining feature, the pin, is a winding key. “When you pull the pin on a real grenade, it becomes a dangerous object, but on this clock, pulling the pin brings it to life. It’s a symbolic act to remind us that time is fleeting and should be cherished,” he elaborated.

REINVENTING TIMEKEEPING

Nicolas explained his enduring relationship with Maximilian Busser, the founder of MB&F: “Max and I were friends first before working together. We share the same spirit and approach to business, which make our collaborations smooth.” Their partnership is marked by a seamless integration of artistry and engineering, with each creation a reflection of both men’s shared passion for innovation. “Not only do Max and I understand each other, our teams do too. If there’s a problem, we look for a solution right away to overcome the challenge. When you co-brand a product, it’s like a marriage because whatever happens to one spouse will affect the other,” Nicolas pointed out.

The L’Epee manufacture operates as a close-knit team of about 90 staff, with the maison offering three distinct lines: Carriage Clocks, a formal and classical collection; the Technical Line, which highlights complex movements within minimalist housings; and the Creative Line, where bold, imaginative, and avant-garde designs push the boundaries of horology.

Each clock is a labour of love, with Nicolas personally involved in every stage of development. “All L’Epee creations go through me,” he shared. “Fifty per cent of our business comes from customisation, so we always start with a blank page. I typically design the object with either an in-house team member or an external designer. Since I’ve an engineering background, it’s easy for me to assess what’s technically possible and how we can bring a concept to life.”

In addition to craftsmanship and artistry, a L’Epee timekeeper must literally withstand time itself. That’s why every one of its clocks is fully mechanical and can last for generations. “We still service L’Epee clocks that are over 180 years old,” Nicolas noted.

A DREAM REALISED

When asked what his dream clock would be, Nicolas pointed to one he’d brought to the interview – the Time Fast II that’s inspired by 1960s sports cars. “I envisioned it in 2009, sketched it on paper in 2016, and created the first piece in 2021. It took a long time to realise it because I’m very detail oriented,” he said proudly.

The kinetic sculpture is a masterclass in design. “The aluminium body was deliberately chosen because it mirrors the materials used in sports cars of that golden era,” Nicolas explained. The driver’s head with the clock’s escapement as the “brain” sits encased within a glass dome – a nod to classic racing helmets – while the tyres are flattened just enough to mimic those on an actual car at rest. Even the steering wheel and gearbox lever serve functional roles, setting the time and winding the clock respectively. “Luxury is in the details,” said Nicolas with a glint in his eye.

THE NEXT CHAPTER

In June 2024, LVMH acquired L’Epee, marking a new chapter for the company. Despite being part of the massive global luxury group, Nicolas stresses that the maison’s autonomy remains intact. “I may have revived L’Epee, but as an independent company, there are always risks and a major crisis could jeopardise everything.”

Now, under LVMH, L’Epee has the stability to weather challenges, while retaining its creative freedom. “Being part of LVMH empowers us and provides security, but what I truly appreciate is that we still operate independently. We’ve the backing of a powerhouse without the constraints that would compromise our vision or operations. It’s the best of both worlds – we can stay true to our ethos and explore new creative horizons at the same time. It feels like a dream, and I’m still pinching myself!”

THE FUTURE OF TIME

For Nicolas, the future of L’Epee is about rewriting the narrative of the clock. “You don’t need a clock anymore,” he said matter-of-factly. “Time is displayed everywhere – on your phone, your TV, even your microwave oven... but that’s exactly why clocks have evolved beyond function.”

He sees Art SG as an opportunity to reshape the way people think about time. Here, visitors will not only see timepieces, but they’ll also experience the emotion, artistry, and storytelling of time. “The spirit of the clock has changed,” he explained. “That’s what I want people to understand when they visit our booth.”

While L’Epee has no shortage of dedicated collectors, with one individual owning 32 of its horological sculptures, Nicolas isn’t focused on numbers. “Having one person buy 32 clocks is amazing, especially for a niche brand like ours,” he admitted. “But having 32 new customers who understand what we do? That spreads our message even further.”

As L’Epee moves into its next era under LVMH, the mission is clear: Expand its reach beyond traditional watch collectors and challenge the notion of what a clock can be. “Ninety-nine per cent of people still think of clocks as boring objects,” he said. “We want to change that. We want them to see that clocks can be extraordinary – and undeniably cool.”