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Is Trilobe the next big thing in watches? The independent watchmaker aims to make something 'iconic'

Gautier Massonneau of independent watchmaker Trilobe talks about the brand's popularity after just five years, setting it apart from the big players, and the importance of looking beyond the watch world for inspiration.

Is Trilobe the next big thing in watches? The independent watchmaker aims to make something 'iconic'

Trilobe was co-founded in 2018 by Gautier Massonneau, a finance professional turned watchmaker. (Photos: Trilobe; Art: CNA/Jasper Loh)

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One look at a Trilobe timepiece is all it takes to know that it’s one of those rare creations that feels more like art than utility – a piece of French poetry in motion, if you will.

Co-founded in 2018 by Gautier Massonneau, a finance professional turned watchmaker, and luxury sector veteran Volcy Bloch, the Parisian independent watch maison’s timepieces take a defiantly modern approach and offer a novel visual experience. It is this very departure from standard design that has made Trilobe a name worth knowing among independent watch enthusiasts, as it stands out with an effortless Parisian cool that feels current yet timeless.

Massonneau’s ambitious foray into watchmaking was anything but predictable. He envisioned a watch that wouldn’t just keep time, but would reshape how it is experienced. With no formal training in horology, Massonneau relied on his innate curiosity and keen eye for design. Seeking the help of Swiss watchmaking experts, his first timepiece, Les Matinaux (The Morning), introduced a unique three-disc time display that has since become a Trilobe hallmark. Inspired by French poet Rene Char’s mid-century book of poems, this model presented a fresh, non-linear way to read time and captivated collectors with its understated elegance. The dial’s trio of concentric rotating rings feature Trilobe’s signature trefoil pointers, which move in a subtle, mesmerising pattern.

Les Matinaux, Trilobe's debut timepiece, introduced a unique three-disc time display that has since become the brand's hallmark. (Photo: Trilobe)

Les Matinaux paved the way for Nuit Fantastique (Fantastic Night) and Une Folle Journee (A Crazy Day), two subsequent collections that built upon Trilobe’s inventive offset design language. Inspired by Austrian writer Stefan Zweig’s works, Nuit Fantastique brings an ethereal elegance to the collection. Meanwhile, Une Folle Journee, launched at Watches and Wonders in 2022, channels the spirit of Le Mariage de Figaro by French playwright and clockmaker to the King of France, Pierre Beaumarchais, with its dramatic, three-dimensional dial layout that hints at architectural marvels.

Look closely and you’ll see that each model integrates Parisian architectural elements, from Sainte-Chapelle’s rose windows that inspired Les Matinaux’s openworked lattice detail at 8 o’clock to the Palais Garnier opera house’s chandelier reflected in the diamond-set Une Folle Journee. These tributes to Parisian culture give each watch an unassuming, but unmistakably French identity.

The Une Folle Journee is inspired by the chandelier in the Palais Garnier opera house. (Photo: Trilobe)

Massonneau also believes that true luxury lies in offering customers a uniquely personal experience, as seen in the Trilobe Secret collection. This range allows clients to personalise their watches with a starry night sky representing a specific date, time, and location significant to them, creating a deeply personal connection to the timepiece.

A defining moment in Trilobe’s journey came in 2022, when the Nuit Fantastique Dune won the Petite Aiguille award at the prestigious Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve (GPHG). This accolade, which honours exceptional timepieces priced under 10,000 CHF (about S$15,000), marked a significant accomplishment for the young brand, validating its unique and bold approach to watchmaking.

In October, we caught up with Massonneau, who was in Singapore for IAMWATCH – a four-day public event by The Hour Glass focused on independent and artisanal watchmakers. The 34-year-old spoke candidly about Trilobe’s journey, finding inspirations, and differentiating the young maison in the big world of watchmaking.

The popularity of independent watchmaking has grown exponentially since Trilobe’s launch in 2018. Have the expectations of watch enthusiasts changed as well?

Yes, and here’s a funny story. In 2018, a Parisian client told us, “Your watch costs the same as a Rolex?!” Now, clients say, “Wait, for the price of a Rolex, I can get that Trilobe watch?” The paradigm has completely shifted, thanks to many factors, including people like Michael Tay (The Hour Glass’ group managing director), who champions independent watchmakers. Don’t get me wrong, I love Rolex, but there’s a whole other world of independent watches beyond it. That said, watch collectors’ expectations are getting higher, which keeps us on our toes.

Nuit Fantastique Lumiere. (Photo: Trilobe)

Who is the Trilobe client?

Our fans range from 27 to 77 years old. For some, it’s their first watch because they’re looking for something other than a Rolex or Audemars Piguet; for others, it could be their 15th timepiece. But they all want the same thing: a truly unique watch – one that you can recognise from 15m away yet is a timeless classic.

You’ve achieved great success with Trilobe in a short five years, how did you do that?

What’s funny is that Volcy and I recently reviewed our original business plan, and everything went wrong. First, we launched at the perfect time in 2018... just as the Yellow Jacket protests erupted in France. Then COVID hit in 2020. But I always say it’s Darwinism – survival of the fittest. We’re good at adapting and evolving through crises

Initially, we relied on Swiss manufactures to make our watches, but as we grew, we realised that this path would mean constant shortages of watches and quality that didn’t meet our standards. We had two choices: wait for another crisis to free up our Swiss partners’ production capacities or take control and produce the watches ourselves. I decided that since the French create the world’s finest jewellery and couture in Paris, we could make the best watches here too. Our maison is located right in the heart of Paris on Avenue de l'Opera, which is incredibly cool and fitting.

What’s it like to be a relatively young brand that’s trying to make a difference in this centuries-old industry dominated by so many established players?

I’ve a very candid view on this. When it comes to watchmaking, I’ve two “flaws”: I'm not a watchmaker, and I'm not Swiss. So far, the industry has welcomed us because we’re not a threat to anyone.

And we take a distinctly different approach with Trilobe. I love food, so I’ll draw parallels with the culinary arts to illustrate our philosophy here. Our workshop in Paris is just across from Cedric Grolet’s patisserie, where his trompe-l'œil fruit creations perfectly capture what we envision for Trilobe. They’re pastries, yet so realistic that they resemble actual fruit, which is familiar yet entirely unique. It’s about reimagining the familiar in a completely new way, and that’s what truly defines us and sets us apart. We don’t pretend to be a big player; we know where our seat is, and we like it.

Les Matinaux L'Heure Exquise in blue featuring a moonphase complication. (Photo: Trilobe)

For the first time in 200 years, we are a watchmaker producing timepieces entirely in-house within Paris. This is something that makes us stand out. And while people still love watches these days, they’re not looking to spend excessively. This gives us the opportunity to offer them unique timepieces at a reasonable price, and I believe we’re doing well with this approach.

Has there been a moment when you knew you’re doing something right with your watches?

Just a week ago, I received a heartwarming email from a collector here in Singapore, who started a Trilobe fan club. He even shared some wrist shots of him and his friends wearing our watches. It was touching and very cool to see because these are people who genuinely believe in you, and take pride in supporting your brand, its products, and designs.

You come from a family of architects and designers, what do they think about your watches?

If I asked my mum what she thinks of Patek Philippe, she’d probably say, Patek what?” or even call it “Philippe Patek”. She doesn’t really know this world exists, but it’s fascinating to get her perspective. She shares my aesthetic sense, yet it’s a world she’s totally unfamiliar with. But my family has always had an entrepreneurial spirit – we’re builders at heart. I love that you can start with a simple drawing and then bring it to life with 25 people working together on the project. I thrive in stressful environments and love finding solutions to problems.

What’s your favourite and least favourite parts of independent watchmaking? 

My favourite part is the creativity, but it’s also the most hated. What I’m afraid of is creativity just for its own sake. Sure, I could easily come up with 10 crazy watch designs quickly, but I don’t want that – it just doesn’t make sense.

This is also why I prefer to be in Paris rather than Switzerland. Don’t get me wrong, I love Switzerland, and we go there often, but I’d encourage independent watchmakers to immerse themselves in culture and the arts, to be challenged by influences outside the watch industry. When you’re in a big city like Paris, New York, or even Singapore, you’re constantly exposed to diverse sources of inspiration. Sometimes, it feels like the watch industry in general isn’t looking beyond its own borders for ideas.

Tell us about the bespoke Trilobe timepiece you’re wearing now.

This is the Nuit Fantastique Secret watch in titanium. What makes it so unique is that you can personalise it with stars representing a special moment of your life, like a birthday, first kiss, or wedding day, as I did with mine. We developed an algorithm based on a book by Belgian meteorologist Jean Meeus, who calculated the position of 1,700 stars based on their longitude, latitude, and time of the year. So, with just a date, time, and location, we can pinpoint the exact position of these stars at any time in the past or future. The algorithm was a nightmare to code, but for us, this watch embodies the essence of luxury, as only you – and perhaps your loved one – know the significance of the stars displayed on the dial.

The bespoke Nuit Fantastique secret watch features stars representing a special moment in your life like a birthday, wedding or first kiss. (Photo: Trilobe)

Any advice for those starting their own independent watch brand?

New brands are popping up online every day. They take a dial from here, hands from there, and end up with a cool-looking watch. But where will it be in five or 10 years? Personally, I couldn’t do something that feels so short-term.

When we pitch Trilobe to potential retailers (including The Hour Glass) we have two slides that introduce our brand. The first shows 12 watches – ranging from high-end to entry-level names – all with white dials and two hands, but with the brands removed. We then ask retailers to guess the brands, and 99 percent of the time, they can’t. On the next slide, we feature iconic models, again without their brands, and everyone recognises each watch almost immediately. My point here is, as a small brand, we have to create something with the potential to become iconic.

It's public knowledge that you wanted A. Lange & Sohne’s Zeitwerk as your first watch, why that particular piece?

I would have loved to have invented the Zeitwerk; I’m jealous I didn’t come up with the design. It’s instantly recognisable from 10 or 15m away, and it’s relevant today and would’ve been just as relevant 100 years back. That’s our philosophy for Trilobe: to create watches that make sense in the past and future.

Source: CNA/st

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