Hue: This charming ancient Vietnamese city is only an hour’s flight away from Hanoi

Nestled along the gently winding banks of the Perfume River in Vietnam lies the picturesque ancient city of Hue. Just an hour’s flight away from Hanoi, it is the old capital of the Nguyen Dynasty. Famed for its complex of Hue monuments, it became the first UNESCO World Heritage site in Vietnam in 1993.

“I feel like Hue is the land of poetry. It is a place that evokes a lot of emotions and where people form deep connections with the landscape and its culture,” said Shi Dang, a local tour guide.

The heartbeat of Hue is its elaborate Imperial Citadel with its imposing walls, ornate palaces, and picturesque pagodas on the north bank of the Perfume River – named for the distinct fragrance of fallen flowers in its water. Constructed in 1804, the citadel was Vietnam’s last royal residence and continues to charm travellers who cannot help but feel they have taken a step back into time when they see the imperial city.

“Being the capital of the Nguyen Dynasty for 143 years made Hue a unique cultural space as it offers insights into this ancient society,” said Shi. “This is why Hue continues to hold its own unique and distinctive charm for foreign tourists and Vietnamese people alike.”

Besides traditional imperial architecture, there are also elegant colonial French buildings dotted through the city. One of the architectural jewels is a mansion from the 1930s that was once the residence of the French Resident Superieure.

In 2005, the building was restored to conserve its early 19th century style Art Deco design. It was reopened in 2019 as Azerai La Residence, a brand owned by hotelier Adrian Zecha, the founder of the ultra-luxury hotel brand Aman.

Azerai certainly does not hold back on the luxe details. Set on a two-and-half-hectare site, the original mansion features a distinctive facade with long horizontal lines and nautical flourishes while its two wings are contemporary in design while still paying homage to Art Deco aesthetics.

Phan Trong Minh, general manager of Azerai La Residence, said. “The hotel features artistic elements and decorative wooden furnishings as well as motifs on the walls and ceilings that clearly showcase the Art Deco style. When guests visit, they find everything very gentle and comfortable, to the extent that they feel like they are at home.

Offering panoramic views of the Perfume River, the 122-room hotel was named by Time Magazine as one of the World’s 100 Greatest Places in 2019. Said Minh: “Travellers would never expect that they would have such a unique experience here in Hue.”

Famous guests who have visited over the years include the late Thai King Bhumibol Adulyadej, the former Queen of Denmark Margrethe II as well as actors Danny DeVito and Colin Farrell.

Another strong draw of Hue is its culinary heritage, which features exquisite creations not found elsewhere in Vietnam. “Food in Hue is unique because this is the land where the last emperors of the Nguyen Dynasty lived,” said Shi.

Royal fare, the pinnacle of Vietnamese cuisine, continues to flourish in the skilled hands of head chef Nguyen Dong Hai at Le Parfum, Azerai La Residence. He keeps tradition alive by meticulously recreating dishes once savoured by Vietnamese emperors. "The flavours start mild and gradually grow more intense with each dish. Each dish is served in small portions so that diners can fully appreciate the unique flavours of each bite,” said Nguyen.

Ingredients are painstakingly prepared and beautifully plated on every dish to serve as both a visual and gastronomic feast. “The people of Hue say that royal cuisine is not just meant to be eaten, but to be savoured with the eyes first," he shared.

The city also has a rich street food heritage, with more than a thousand local dishes to sample across the ancient city. To facilitate a deeper exploration of the culinary treasures sprinkled through Hue, bicycle excursions can be organised for guests at Azerai.

“Flavours that stand out are spicy and rich. Hue people usually cook with a lot of spices and seasoning, making the dish more flavourful,” said Shi.

A must-try is Bun Bo Hue, a savoury, spicy and aromatic beef noodle soup that captures the essence of central Vietnamese cuisine with every slurp. For another taste of street-style decadence, look out for Banh Khoai Ca Kinh – stuffed fish pancake. It is especially renowned in the Tam Giang lagoon. The fish are caught when they are in season and plentiful, and cooked with pancake batter and other ingredients like bean sprouts, shrimp and a blend of herbs to create a flavourful snack.

Whether sightseeing or having a royal feast, the key to enjoying life in Hue is to take things slow and to live in the moment. “Many people have forgotten the beauty of being slow. In other cities, due to the fast pace of development, it is easy to feel lost in the chaos. But in Hue, you get to savour the slow life.”