Yeonnam-dong, Seoul: A hidden gem filled with interesting cafes, shops & restaurants

The trendy district of Hongdae is one of Seoul’s most popular neighbourhoods and it is always bustling with activity and energy. However, if you’re looking for a more local but equally vibrant destination, follow the train tracks at the edge of Hongdae. They mark the entrance to the Gyeongui Line Forest Park to get to the lively neighbourhood of Yeonnam-dong.

Residents reminisce about a time when Yeonnam-dong was a well-kept secret; only a select group of people are privy to it.

“It was a place for the people who knew about the area. Even bars and shops were secret, hidden places that only I knew about,” said Jeon Jio, a French cuisine chef who has lived in the area for most of his life.

More recently, the Forest Park, a 6km-long walking path and park that was once part of a railway connecting Seoul to North Korea opened following years of construction, making Yeonnam-dong much more accessible to the public.

“Young artists from Hongdae began to flow here because of the cheaper rent, and interesting places opened one by one. Over time, Yeonnam-dong became famous,” observed Jio. “Nowadays, it has developed a lot and there are many famous brands and restaurants, so it has become a neighbourhood that you must visit at least once.”

Today, Yeonnam-dong is a melting pot of old and new, where traditional charm meets modern innovation. The park itself has become a big draw for its beautiful tree-lined pathways and lush green lawns – the perfect location for a leisurely afternoon picnic or a romantic sunset stroll.

But the winding streets that branch off from the park is where the real magic happens. Here, you will find a treasure trove of independent bookstores, artisanal shops, and cosy eateries waiting to be discovered. What sets Yeonnam-dong apart is how the locals are committed to preserving its unique character, with many businesses owned and operated by longtime residents who live and breathe the spirit of the neighbourhood.

Kim Hyo-Jin, a resident of 15 years, embodies this ethos with her cafe and store, Milieu Haus, a warm haven that serves up vintage charm alongside delicious brews.

“Unlike other downtown areas, Yeonnam-dong's commercial buildings are remodelled from residential villas and houses. So, if you walk into a small bar or store, you can feel the atmospheric, authentic vibe of the street compared to the stores on the main street,” said Kim.

One of the highlights of Yeonnam-dong is its thriving culinary scene, which boasts an eclectic array of cafes, restaurants, and bars that cater to every palate. From coffee shops serving artisanal brews to eateries offering innovative cuisine, there is no shortage of dining options to explore.

For instance, Jio co-owns L’Impasse 81, a French dining bar and charcuterie with Korean-French chef Gregoire Michot. L’Impasse 81, which references the year the two chefs were born, has been listed in the Michelin Guide since 2016.

When they launched in 2015, charcuterie that was made in-house was not common in Seoul, making the restaurant a novelty. “Those trying this for the first time might find it unfamiliar, but they soon realise that the saltier taste of charcuterie pairs well with alcohol and wine,” said Jio.

As one wanders deeper into the tiny alleys of Yeonnam-dong, there are also mom-and-pop restaurants to uncover for an authentic experience. For example, Woojuok Cold Noodle Restaurant offers North Korean style cold noodles that are especially popular on a hot summer day.

Known as Pyeongyang Naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles are topped with ingredients including slices of beef or pork, pickled radish and cucumber and drenched with a cold, refreshing broth for a light yet flavourful meal.

Owner Heo Je-Hoon, who has lived most of his life here offered this tip to curious travellers: “The closer you are to an alley with fewer people, the higher your chances of finding a good store that nobody else has heard of before, so take the time to explore the neighbourhood.”

Even the new businesses that have set up here are drawn to the area’s distinctive vibe. “If you go to the remote areas of Yeonnam-dong, there are a lot of secret whiskey bars hidden in the alleyways,” said Shin Gwang-Seok, owner of newly launched French wine bar A Trois Temps. “Many such bars are open until the sun rises in the morning, but the public does not know about them yet. I think it would be fun to find something like that and spend a night there in good company.”

Not surprisingly, some residents do wonder if this rapid development will impact their lives. Said Jio: “I have seen a lot of changes over the last 10 years, and I am worried that if the influx of people increases, building owners will raise rents, causing fun spaces to disappear and move to other places.”

Still, as the community grapples with gentrification and rising prices, there are still silver linings to savour, like the neighbourhood’s enduring appeal. He added: “Just as I had a great time in this neighbourhood when I was young, I think it is wonderful that the new generation has discovered Yeonnam-dong and enjoying this destination.”