Sailor-meets-saddler at Hermes’ Spring/Summer 2019 show
Lots of leather and nautical references all around.
If Hermes’ Artistic Director of women’s ready-to-wear had her way, the Hermes woman would be spending next season on an estate by the coast, where daily activities revolve around beachcombing or horse-riding.
That was the impression that CNA Lifestyle got from the French label's runway presentation held in Paris on Sep 30.
Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski re-envisioned the groom’s apron as a summer dress and the sailor’s smock as a parka, the latter offering protection against inclement weather or just sea spray.
Then there were bucket bags and gladiator sandals, perfect for traipsing on the shore. More nautical references could be found in boating knots, rope detailing, metallic eyelets and toggle fasteners.
Such technical elements lent utility to the luxury of leather – a material that featured strongly in the collection.
And speaking of leather, the designer’s mastery of leatherwork was in clear evidence throughout. Buttery soft calfskin appeared to drape the body whether it was a tunic, pantsuit, parka, full skirt, biker jacket or summer dress. Some garments boasted laser-cut perforations.
Finally, the palette of natural neutrals – sand, sea foam green, olive – and the House’s signature orange gave the collection a coherent, collected and coordinated look.