Her family business makes medals for the army – she launched a jewellery brand as a spin-off

Clare Leong’s family business is a well-established operation that has been around for over 50 years. Established in 1968, Eng Leong Medallic Industries (ELM) specialises in the design and manufacturing of medals, plaques, trophies and decorations for government and military institutions, international corporations and clubs. 

In Singapore, its clients include the Singapore Armed Forces (SAF), Singapore Civil Defence Force (SCDF) and Singapore Police Force (SPF). Notably, ELM also produced the official medals of the 2015 Southeast Asian (SEA) Games.

Despite the company’s stability and success, Leong felt a creative pull to start something different. Due to the nature of the business, ELM operates quietly behind the scenes. But Leong began to wonder – what if the company’s legacy in precision metalwork could speak to a different audience? 

“We operate in a very B2B environment. The general public doesn't really know who we are. I started to imagine what it would look like if ELM were to be in a retail, consumer environment,” Leong recalled. As she pondered over the company’s strengths, one core capability stood out – it’s expertise in enamelling. 

“That’s when it hit me – why not start a jewellery brand for women? Medal-making is a very masculine industry and it would be interesting to start a brand for a completely different audience.” 

ENTREPRENEURSHIP IN HER 50S

Launched in 2021, Moss & Lupine is a handcrafted, demi-fine jewellery brand. Its pieces are crafted in nickel-free 925 sterling silver, finished in either 18K gold or rhodium plating. 

What sets the brand apart is its signature enamelling technique – a rare and intricate process that ELM has honed over decades of medal-making. The technique involves fusing powdered glass onto a metal surface through high heat, creating a smooth, durable and glossy layer of colour. 

Although starting a jewellery brand felt like “a natural extension of who we are at ELM”, it was not the only idea Leong came up with initially, she revealed. “I considered food and even pet-related products. But after speaking to a few people, I realised they weren’t the right fit.”

For Leong, it had always been “part of the plan” to join the family business. Since young, she visited the factory often, helping out with small tasks such as colour application and packing orders. She officially joined the company in her early 20s after graduating from university, and by her mid-30s, had taken over its management. 

Initially, Leong’s desire to branch into jewellery was met with some internal resistance. With the company already stable, “it wasn’t quite necessary”, she admitted. “And frankly, I’m 52 years old and at this age, most people would want to slow down. But there’s just something in me that wanted to do a little bit more.” 

Her own personal interest in jewellery was inspired by her mother. “She would always save up and buy pieces that she liked and that were meaningful to her,” shared Leong. Her mother also created matching jewellery sets for each of her five daughters, which were given to them on their wedding day. “It’s a very nice and meaningful tradition and I have started to do the same for my two daughters.”

INSPIRED BY NATURE

Moss & Lupine’s design inspiration is deeply rooted in Leong’s love for nature. “When I travel, I like taking long walks through forests or gardens. That’s where I see, experience and feel,” she shared.

The brand’s jewellery designs are shaped by floral and botanical elements such as calla lilies, peonies, silver-tree-ferns, palm leaves, plumerias and chrysanthemums. “For every collection we come up with, it always starts with a flower or a nature element, and then we weave in certain values we want to express.”

Moss & Lupine’s signature style evolved over time. Tapping on the brand’s roots in producing medals, early pieces were bold and statement-making, as seen in the Olivia & Odelia collection, which features a chrysanthemum flower set against an enamelled guilloche base. Recognising the need for more wearable, everyday designs, the Anelise collection was born, featuring a delicate clover motif with pastel enamel in shades of pink, turquoise and white. 

As the collections matured, the in-house design team introduced more depth and texture to the pieces by incorporating pearls and white sapphires, as seen in the Fosette, Amelia and Rosalie pieces. They are now exploring the use of semi-precious stones in future designs. There’s also a growing emphasis on form and silhouette, as reflected in the sculptural shape of the Lune collection.

“I like designs that are clean and elegant but still have a bit of intricacy and an artistic feel,” said Leong, who collaborates closely with the design team on each collection. 

GROWING ROOTS IN THE LOCAL SCENE

Moss & Lupine first began as an online store. To build brand awareness, it participated in events such as the popular Boutiques Fair, which allowed customers to experience and try on the jewellery in person. 

In the early days of the brand, most sales came from supportive friends and family. Leong was overjoyed when a stranger first made a purchase. “We started with just a concept and we weren’t sure if there would be a market for our designs. The first time someone we didn't know bought something, I was jumping up and down. It was very encouraging and felt like an affirmation,” Leong recounted.

The brand currently has a pop-up space at River’s Edge Abode, a retail and cafe concept located at Clarke Quay. Running till Feb 28, 2026, the space is a showcase of five homegrown brands. Alongside Moss & Lupine, they include apparel label Esse, lifestyle brand The Ordinary Co, handcrafted footwear brand Palola and boutique coffee brewers Cotob Coffee. 

Being around other local brands has been an energising source of motivation for Leong, although she admitted to initially feeling "very old" among the younger founders. “Seeing all these local brands around and the passion that they have has been a form of encouragement for me,” she quipped.  

JEWELLERY WITH MEANING

Prices for Moss & Lupine's pieces range from S$79 (US$62) for a pair of earrings to S$579 for a necklace, depending on design. For Leong, jewellery isn't just decorative, it's deeply personal and emotional too. “It’s a reflection of who you are and who you want to be,” she surmised. 

Around 90 per cent of the brand's customers are women, typically in their late 20s to 50s. “They want something different and they like the story that we tell behind each of our pieces,” shared Leong. 

From Rochelle to Anais, Ines and Celine, each Moss & Lupine collection is named after a woman, echoing the brand’s belief in the quiet power of feminine strength. One quality that Leong hopes shines through in the jewellery is confidence. “As women, we play multiple roles. Sometimes we don’t realise the strength in our own characters,” she mused. 

This belief also informed one of the brand’s most meaningful collaborations to date. In 2023, Moss & Lupine collaborated with Fashion for Cancer on a collection inspired by the Camellia flower. “It’s a flower that blooms only in late autumn and all through winter, a period of time where very little else grows,” shared Leong. “It symbolises strength and resilience and serves as a reminder of the courage of cancer survivors. It also reminds us that there can be beauty even in difficult times.”

THE FUTURE OF MOSS & LUPINE

At its core, “Moss & Lupine is a reflection of things that are important to me, such as good craftsmanship, a connection to nature and the joy of gifting something meaningful,” said Leong.

Her goal is for each jewellery piece to resonate on a deeper level with the wearer. “They can be a part of someone’s story or be gifted with love. In everything that we do, we try to weave in a sense of heritage, love and care.” 

Looking ahead, Leong envisions expanding the brand beyond Singapore, but hopes to first build a strong foundation in its home country. “I want Moss & Lupine to be well-recognised and trusted here first,” she emphasised. “If it’s good enough for Singapore, it will be good enough for the world. It will take time, but it’s something I truly look forward to.”