The collector’s guide to 2025’s standout complication watches

Sure, a clean three-hand watch is nice and all – reliable, understated, polite. But sometimes you want more than to just tell the time. Enter complications: The fun little mechanical devices that watchmakers dream up, from keeping track of multiple time zones (worldtime) to timing your instant noodles (chronographs) and even when to look out for the next full moon (moonphases). In 2025, these mechanical watches represent one of the most exciting horology trends – where traditional craftsmanship meets modern innovation.

The catch? Complication watches usually come with complication price tags. But good news: Not all of them will require selling a kidney or two. Today’s smart collectors and enthusiasts are a sharp bunch, caring just as much about long-term value and smart spending as they do about high-performance movements and bragging rights.

From chronographs and worldtimers to perpetual calendars and chiming watches, here’s our hit list of complication watches that deliver plenty of mechanical fireworks without the eye-watering markup. Think fresh models (mostly from 2025), clever updates, and a whole lot of bang for your buck.

CHRONOGRAPHS

A chronograph is basically a stopwatch strapped to your wrist – useful, fun, and the kind of complication that makes your inner time nerd very happy. Whether you’re timing laps (or just your dog’s zoomies), measuring pour-over coffee brew times, or trying to figure out how long your pizza is “five minutes away”, a chrono has your back.

What separates good from “I’m just paying for hype" in chronographs? First, reliability. The movement should be solid, well adjusted, ideally COSC-certified. Next, movement quality: In-house column-wheel mechanisms tend to be more collectible and nicer to brag about, but some well-done third-party or modular ones punch above their weight. 

Then there’s water resistance and shock protection (so a bump or splash doesn’t ruin your fancy toy). Brand history/heritage counts too. If the name carries credibility, it helps you at resale or just bragging at barbecues. And finally, materials, finishing, design – think dial legibility, case material, lume, hands, pushers – and, of course, price-versus-what-you-get. A great chronograph value gives you all this without forcing you to sell your soul.

Tudor Black Bay Chronograph (M79360N-0014)

What it is: Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph takes the brand’s vintage-diver DNA and fuses it with motorsport vibes, resulting in a panda-dial beauty that screams versatility. At 41mm with 200m water resistance, it’s as comfortable timing laps as it is taking a dip. Inside ticks the MT5813, a COSC-certified chronograph calibre co-developed with Breitling, featuring a column wheel and vertical clutch. This is a robust, precise timepiece with all the pedigree you could ask for. New for 2025, a five-link bracelet that gives it a more sophisticated air. 

Why it’s good value: For what it’s worth, you’re getting a Swiss-made, chronometer-certified, in-house-adjacent chrono with vintage styling and bulletproof build. Tudor rides Rolex’s halo but does so without Rolex pricing, making this one of the best all-rounders for enthusiasts who want a luxury sports chrono they can actually wear hard without babying.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph (CBS2216.BA0048)

What it is: The Carrera is TAG Heuer’s icon, born in the racing pits of the 1960s, and this modern version channels that spirit beautifully. At 39mm, the proportions are spot-on, making it wearable across wrist sizes. It’s powered by the Heuer 02, an in-house calibre with 80-hour power reserve, column wheel, and vertical clutch – serious watchmaking chops for the price bracket. The glass-box sapphire crystal adds retro charm while enhancing dial depth and legibility.

Why it’s good value: Few chronographs carry the motorsport legacy of the Carrera, and this one does it without the hype-tax. You’re paying for a fully in-house, well-finished chrono with excellent ergonomics and long power reserve. The Carrera line has pedigree and collectability, but this edition also scores high on everyday usability. A future-classic in the making.

Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42 (AB0156161C1S1)

What it is: The SuperOcean Heritage B01 Chronograph is Breitling’s nod to its 1950s dive watches, mixing retro elegance with modern engineering. Sized at 42mm with a ceramic bezel and robust steel case, it’s as much a tool watch as it is a desk diver. Powering it is Breitling’s in-house B01 calibre – column wheel, vertical clutch, 70-hour power reserve, and COSC certification. The sunburst blue dial with panda registers makes it a looker both above and below water.

Why it’s good value: You’re getting Breitling’s flagship in-house chronograph engine in a watch with both diving and racing cred. The finishing is sharp, the movement is one of the best in its class, and the design bridges sporty and refined effortlessly. For collectors wanting a chrono that can do it all – with heritage, chops, and daily wearability – this is a serious contender. 

WORLDTIMERS/GMT WATCHES

If you’re a digital nomad or a frequent flier, a worldtimer or GMT watch is your best friend, letting you know immediately if it's breakfast time back home. A true GMT has a 24-hour hand or ring, while worldtimers map many time zones at once.

What makes a GMT worth it (beyond looking cool)? Legibility is key: Clear indication of the 24-hour scale, distinct GMT hand, good contrast, lume. Ease of operation matters – switching between zones shouldn’t be a brain teaser. 

Movement quality: Whether it’s in-house or not, modular or integrated, how robust it is, whether it's reliable over time. Anti-magnetism and durability help – you don’t want your timekeeper to go crazy just because you sat next to a laptop or walked through airport security. 

Brand heritage helps credibility (and resale value), materials and finish enhance desirability. The best GMTs give you all that: Travel functionality without needing a second mortgage.

Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Worldtimer (Ref. 215.92.46.22.01.006)

What it is: Omega takes its dive-watch muscle and packs in a worldtimer for globetrotters who don’t just sip cocktails by the pool – they actually swim in it. At 43.5mm, this titanium-cased beast is water-resistant to 600m and features a laser-ablated world map at the dial’s centre. Inside, the Master Chronometer calibre 8939 offers co-axial escapement, anti-magnetic tech up to 15,000 gauss, and a GMT/worldtime function. It’s rugged meets refined.

Why it’s good value: You’re not just paying for the complication here; you’re getting Omega’s best-in-class dive-watch engineering, METAS certification, and future-proof durability. Few worldtimers are this tough, this wearable in real life, and this handsome. For travellers who want a proper tool watch with genuine haute horlogerie chops, this Omega is a solid bet.

Nomos Glashutte Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer (Ref. 790 Blue)

What it is: Minimalist German design meets worldtimer practicality. The Nomos Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer takes a clean, Bauhaus-inspired dial and sneaks in an incredibly legible time zone display. At 42mm, it wears slim thanks to the in-house DUW 5201 calibre, which offers automatic winding, 42-hour reserve, and their signature swing system escapement. A push of a button jumps you between cities – intuitive and very Nomos.

Why it’s good value: You’re getting an in-house worldtimer with a genuinely unique aesthetic, a slim case that’s easy to wear daily, and German finishing that punches above its weight. It’s not trying to out-flex Swiss giants; instead, it’s clever, practical, and stylish. Perfect for design-forward travellers who want a complication that feels smart, not showy.

Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Worldtimer (Ref. FC-718NWM4H6)

What it is: Frederique Constant is all about democratising complications, and the Classic Worldtimer is Exhibit A. At 42mm, it’s elegant, balanced, and offered in navy or silver dials. The in-house calibre FC-718 keeps things simple: Worldtime, date, 42-hour power reserve, all adjustable via the crown (no fiddly pushers). The engraved world map on the dial adds charm without clutter.

Why it’s good value: You’re getting a fully in-house worldtimer with refined finishing and one of the easiest-to-use worldtime settings on the market. Frederique Constant proves you don’t need to take a bank loan to own a proper manufacture worldtimer, making it a darling for collectors who value brains, looks, and budget all in one.

CALENDAR WATCHES

Let’s face it, calendars are super handy. A quick flick of the wrist and you’ll know if it’s Tuesday, or even a leap year – without having to check your phone. Calendar complications come in different flavours: Simple date windows; annual calendars (which deal with 30-/31-day months, and only need a manual adjustment in February); and perpetual calendars, which are the big kahuna, automatically adjusting for leap years for decades without you messing with it.

Because of those extra mechanics, calendar watches tend to cost more. So for value, watch out for legibility (are the day/date/month displays easy to read?), movement quality (in-house or outsourced; how well engineered; do modular calendar add-ons degrade reliability?), thinness and wearability (a bulky perpetual can look like a brick under cuffs), sturdiness (material, case build, resistance to shocks), brand heritage (some names in calendar watchmaking are more trusted), materials and finish (hands, sub-dials, quality of printing/lume), and of course that price versus what you're getting ratio.

A calendar watch that gives you maximum utility with minimal compromise is a definite winner.

IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar 41 (Ref. IW344903)

What it is: IWC has taken its legendary Gerald Genta-designed Ingenieur case and stuffed it with a full-blown perpetual calendar. At 41mm, the stainless steel case keeps proportions neat, while the in-house 82650 calibre powers displays for date, day, month, leap year, and moon phase – all adjusted via the crown. Thanks to IWC’s Pellaton winding system, it’s as robust as it is refined, with a 60-hour reserve and sapphire caseback to admire the works.

Why it’s good value: Perpetual calendars often skew dressy, but IWC makes one you can wear with jeans. The blend of Genta design DNA, daily-wear toughness, and perpetual wizardry makes this a standout. Not going to lie, you’re paying luxury money here, but for an in-house, crown-operated perpetual in a sports case? That’s an investment-level piece with both flex and function.

Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture (Ref. FC-776SAL3H6, 2025)

What it is: Frederique Constant is at it again, breaking barriers with complications usually reserved for the ultra-elite. This 2025 release updates their perpetual calendar with a sleeker case design and a cleaner dial layout. Powered by the in-house FC-776 calibre, it covers all the essentials – date, day, month, leap year – and throws in 38 hours of power reserve. The 41mm stainless steel case and sapphire caseback keep things modern yet classic.

Why it’s good value: Finding a true in-house perpetual calendar that doesn’t break the bank is like spotting a unicorn. But Frederique Constant nails accessibility without skimping on finishing or functionality. Sure, it’s not dripping with haute-horlogerie handcraft, but it delivers perpetual sophistication in a package that’s both wearable and financially sane. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar (Ref. Q9088180)

What it is: The Polaris Perpetual Calendar is Jaeger-LeCoultre flexing its dual identities – sporty yet sophisticated. At 42mm, the stainless steel case is water-resistant to 100m – unusual for perpetuals – and houses the automatic calibre 868AA with a 70-hour reserve. The lacquered blue dial layers depth with calendar sub-dials and a moonphase that tracks both hemispheres. Bonus: It automatically adjusts until 2100, so there’s no need to fiddle with it for the rest of your life.

Why it’s good value: Jaeger-LeCoultre has always been the “watchmaker’s watchmaker”, and this Polaris proves why. You’re paying for a perpetual calendar you don’t have to baby – sporty case, everyday durability, and a calibre that’s all Jaeger-LeCoultre know-how. It straddles tool and complication beautifully, offering collectors a rare mix of real-world wearability and old-world horology.

CHIMING WATCHES

Chiming watches are the showmen of the watchmaking world – they don’t just show the time, they make the time audible. Whether it’s a minute repeater (you pull a lever, it chimes the hours, quarters, minutes), or a sonnerie (automatic strikes on the hour/quarter versus on demand), these are typically the most complex, most impressive bits of horological wizardry.

Value here is a whole different level. First, there’s the quality of the chime: Clarity, volume, harmony, whether the gongs are cathedral style (longer, more resonant), how nicely tuned the hammers are, how clean the melody is – this can make or break the experience. 

Case material helps a lot. Certain metals amplify well whereas other materials might produce dead muffled sounds. Finishing and design matters too, both visual and acoustic, along with robustness – how well it keeps working, and how easy/costly it is to service. 

Brand heritage is huge in chiming watches. Collectors expect finesse and history. And of course, there’s the price-quality ratio, because chiming watches are inherently rare and expensive (think six or even low seven figures), real value is getting that sonic performance and craftsmanship for what you pay. A sparklingly great minute repeater or petite/sonnerie that sounds great, isn’t absurdly fragile, and isn’t priced like it’s one of a kind is a rare treasure.

Christopher Ward C1 Bel Canto

What it is: In 2022, the Bel Canto put Christopher Ward on the map in a big way – and for good reason. It’s an automatic chiming watch (sonnerie au passage), which means it strikes the hour, every hour, on demand or automatically. Usually, this complication is the playground of six-figure Swiss pieces, but here it comes wrapped in a 41mm titanium case with eight dial colourways and the brand’s in-house modified SH21 base calibre. Design-wise, it looks more avant-garde than “entry-level Brit brand”. 

Why it’s good value: You’re basically getting a ticket into haute horology for the price of a nice holiday. The initial Bel Canto runs – including the “Azzurro Blue” and “Verde Green” – sold out in hours, and while those are now secondary-market darlings, Christopher Ward has kept the music going with the “Classic” line and collaborations like “The Red One” and “Wave”. Accessibility, desirability, and serious complication cred – all without heart-stopping service bills – make this one of modern watchmaking’s best value stories.

MeisterSinger Bell Hora

What it is: Known for its quirky single-hand watches, MeisterSinger upped the ante in 2021 with the Bell Hora, a sonnerie au passage chiming watch that rings once, on the hour, every hour. At 43mm, it’s a presence, but the design stays clean and legible in that signature one-hand format. The chiming module is built on a Sellita base movement, keeping it reliable and serviceable. Plus, there’s a “silence” pusher at 2 o’clock for when you’d rather not broadcast the passing of time.

Why it’s good value: Like Christopher Ward, MeisterSinger makes chiming accessible, but with its own eccentric twist. Here you’re buying a complication that’s typically stratospheric, wrapped in the brand’s playful, less-is-more philosophy. It’s not about high-polish prestige; it’s about charm and cleverness. A great choice for collectors who want horological fun without the financial fright.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon (Ref. 103986)

What it is: The Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon takes Bvlgari’s ultra-thin chiming mastery and gives it a stealthy, modern twist. Crafted in high-tech carbon, the case is lighter, subtly textured, and dramatically darker than its original titanium sibling, making it a futuristic, almost tactical statement on the wrist. At just 6.85 mm thick, it houses the BVL 362 calibre – a mechanical marvel with 42-hour power reserve and gongs precisely tuned for crystal-clear resonance. Geometric Octo design meets avant-garde material science, creating a chiming watch that’s as modern as it is sonically impressive.

Why it’s good value: In the world of minute repeaters, comparable chiming pieces from Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet easily soar into the high hundreds of thousands or millions at retail or auction. Here, Bvlgari’s carbon case adds lightness, shock resistance, and a bold, contemporary look, while retaining the engineering and sound quality of a traditional ultra-thin repeater. It’s a modern icon for collectors who want extreme technicality with a cutting-edge aesthetic.