Why Chinese watch brands are finally being taken seriously
As Behrens becomes the first Chinese watchmaker to exhibit at Watches and Wonders Geneva, collectors and industry insiders say a new era for Chinese watchmaking has arrived.
A new generation of Chinese watch brands is challenging old stereotypes and attracting collectors worldwide. (Photos: Courtesy of respective brands/Art: CNA/Chern Ling)
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It’s not just Gen Z and TikTok users who are having a very Chinese moment these days. The watchmaking industry appears to be Chinamaxxing, too.
At the annual Watches & Wonders trade show in Geneva this April, independent Chinese watchmaker Behrens made its debut, becoming the first-ever brand from the country to do so.
Drawing inspiration from the Bronze Eye-shaped artefact of the ancient Shu civilisation in Sichuan, Behrens transformed its exhibition space into a fusion of mechanical watchmaking and contemporary Chinese cultural expression.
For Jean Philippe Tarot, founder and editor-in-chief of Montres de Luxe, the moment felt both surprising and inevitable.
“At first I was a little bit surprised, but then I remembered that [another Chinese brand] CIGA Design won a GPHG Prize in 2021,” he said, referring to the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve, often regarded as watchmaking’s equivalent of the Oscars. “Which, in my opinion, marked the very beginning of the recognition of Chinese brands in the watch industry.
“In 2026, the fact that a brand like Behrens is attending Watches & Wonders is obviously very symbolic. It’s the very first time a Chinese watchmaker participates in a high-end watch fair in Geneva, the capital of the watch industry.”
More importantly, Tarot sees the development as a form of validation.
“It is clearly a recognition from the industry and from the market, that is the customers. And given their good work lately, their creativity and their collaborations, they deserved it.”
Tarot believes the implications extend beyond a single brand.
“From an industry perspective it also means that the watch industry is not anymore Swiss, Japanese or French but also Chinese. It’s the beginning of a new era.”
DAWN OF A NEW AGE
Such a statement would have seemed improbable even a decade ago. For years, the phrase “Made in China” carried negative connotations in the watch world. China was largely associated with low-cost manufacturing, inexpensive quartz watches and, at the industry's less savoury end, counterfeit products.
As Tarot put it bluntly, the market was once known for producing “perfect clones”. That segment still exists, of course, but it is now just one part of a much bigger story.
In recent years, a new generation of Chinese brands has emerged, one focused on design, craftsmanship and technical innovation rather than simply affordability.
Brands such as Atelier Wen, Behrens, CIGA Design and Shanghai Watch have steadily built followings among collectors, while names such as Sea-Gull Watches have begun attracting renewed attention for capabilities that extend far beyond movement manufacturing.
The shift mirrors a broader transformation taking place across China itself. Whether in electric vehicles, smartphones, artificial intelligence or robotics, China is increasingly moving from manufacturing-led growth to innovation-led leadership.
Asian consumers who once looked to Europe or the United States for cutting-edge products are finding compelling alternatives much closer to home. Tarot believes watchmaking is following a similar trajectory.
Few people have observed that evolution more closely than Sugiharto Kusumadi, founder of Singapore multibrand retailer Red Army Watches (RAW), which carries brands including CIGA Design, Lucky Harvey and Shanghai Watch.
“I actually started representing Chinese watch brands much earlier than most people realise – back in 2008 with FIYTA,” he said. “Looking back, I think the market simply wasn’t ready yet. Consumer perceptions towards Chinese watches back then were still heavily shaped by price stereotypes rather than design or innovation.”
Today, the landscape looks markedly different.
“Five or six years ago, many collectors dismissed Chinese watches almost automatically,” he explained. “Today, the conversation is far more nuanced. Enthusiasts are beginning to separate low-cost mass production from genuine Chinese watchmaking creativity.”
The appeal, he added, extends beyond value.
“Younger buyers especially are much more open-minded – they care less about old stereotypes and more about whether a watch feels exciting, original, and worth the money.”
GROWING CONSUMER INTEREST
Among those buyers is collector Benjamin Tan, whose entry into Chinese watchmaking came through a CIGA Design Blue Planet Titanium in 2022.
“I fell in love with its iconic design, unique take on time-telling, comfort, and value,” he recalled. The watch, he said, announced “the arrival of Chinese watchmaking as being able to stand toe-to-toe with any timepiece in its price range, and even double it.”
Yet pricing was only part of the equation.
“Besides obvious aspects like value from a pricing standpoint, I believe that it’s true creativity in design,” he offered. “Often quirky designs that somehow work, that no established Swiss brand, especially those from the big two groups or even independents, would even want to consider.”
His admiration is particularly evident when discussing Behrens.
“What I love most about Behrens is its courageous approach to watch design yet still being able to remain coherent in its design philosophy,” he said. “Even radically different designs share similar DNA aesthetically and mechanically.”
That growing curiosity was evident in Singapore in May 2026 when RAW hosted a gathering for collectors and media featuring Sea-Gull Watches and Shanghai Watch – the first such event for both brands in the city-state.
For many attendees, the event challenged assumptions. Collector Deborah Wong, one-half of the Ticktockbelles, admitted that her understanding of Chinese watchmaking had largely been limited to movement manufacturers.
“My knowledge of Chinese watchmaking was primarily centred around movements such as Sea-Gull and Peacock,” she said. “I had minor knowledge that Sea-Gull produces timepieces but was surprised at the extensive portfolio of watches that they actually offer.”
Particularly unexpected was the discovery that the company produces highly complicated watches, such as a split-seconds chronograph.
“During the event, I also learnt that they produce high complication watches, which was not what I expected.”
That reaction was precisely what Sea-Gull Watches’ Singapore distributor hoped to achieve.
“At our inaugural Sea-Gull event in Singapore, we aimed to redefine perceptions by showcasing six high-end Master Sea-Gull collections, each valued at over S$100,000,” explained Lim Yong Keong (YK) of BIG Time Singapore. “This exclusive display surprised attendees, revealing Sea-Gull’s unrecognised expertise and commitment to crafting luxury timepieces.”
COMING FULL CIRCLE
Perhaps this level of technical sophistication should not come as a surprise. After all, China has one of the world’s oldest traditions of timekeeping. From ancient drum and bell towers to the night watchmen who once patrolled cities announcing the hours, measuring time has long occupied an important place in Chinese civilisation.
In the late 11th century, the polymath Su Song designed and oversaw the construction of a towering astronomical clock tower, centuries before modern watchmaking emerged in Europe.
History, however, is rarely linear. Political upheaval, isolation and war meant China’s watchmaking story unfolded differently from that of Switzerland. It was only in recent decades that Chinese manufacturers have begun translating industrial capability into globally recognised watchmaking expertise.
But the journey is far from complete. Tarot believes Chinese watch brands still need to develop a stronger sense of luxury. Yet he remains optimistic.
“Chinese brands will count in the watch industry in the next decades. For sure.”
Wong perhaps summed up the changing mood best.
“Just like labelling watches as male or female watches, I think it is high time to remove the ‘Made in XXX’ stigma,” she offered. “Weight upon quality, craftsmanship and creativity as compared to where the timepieces are made.”
In other words, quality, craftsmanship and creativity matter more than country of origin.
If Behrens’ appearance in Geneva is any indication, the rest of the watch world may soon have to do the same.
Here is a primer on seven brands making waves in contemporary Chinese watchmaking – including one founded by a Singaporean entrepreneur.
ATELIER WEN
Year established: 2018
Origin city: Hong Kong
Key products: Perception, Millesime
Price range: US$3,000 – US$6,000
Founded by French entrepreneurs Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, Atelier Wen has become one of the most respected ambassadors of contemporary Chinese watchmaking. A crowd favourite at watch fairs, the brand often draws enthusiasts in large numbers, particularly at events such as Spring Sprang Sprung in Singapore.
Rather than competing on price, the brand positions itself as a celebration of Chinese artistry, partnering with master craftsmen to produce guilloche dials and highly finished timepieces that stand comfortably alongside Swiss competitors.
The Perception collection, in particular, has won praise for its intricate dial work, integrated-bracelet design and attention to detail. Production numbers remain relatively limited, further enhancing its appeal among collectors.
If anything, Atelier Wen – the name combines the French word for “workshop” and the Chinese word for “culture” – has helped redefine what a Chinese watch can be. The brand demonstrates that “Made in China” can stand for craftsmanship, cultural storytelling and premium finishing rather than simply affordability.
Among today’s emerging Chinese brands, it is arguably one of the strongest candidates for long-term collectability.
BEHRENS
Year established: 2012
Origin city: Shenzhen
Key products: Orion One, Rotary, Ultra-Light, Apolar, Perigee
Price range: US$2,000 – US$30,000+
If any brand symbolises the new era of Chinese watchmaking, it must surely be Behrens.
The independent brand – founded by Lin Bingqiang – made history in 2026 as the first Chinese watchmaker to exhibit at Watches and Wonders Geneva, a milestone many observers regard as a watershed moment for the industry.
Known for unconventional displays, satellite-inspired complications and radically futuristic aesthetics, Behrens has built a reputation for doing things differently.
Collaborations with respected names such as Vianney Halter and Konstantin Chaykin have further elevated its profile, while its increasingly sophisticated in-house engineering has earned kudos from collectors worldwide.
Unlike many emerging brands that draw heavily on vintage inspiration, Behrens looks firmly towards the future. Its watches often resemble miniature mechanical sculptures rather than traditional timepieces. The comparison is often drawn with brands such as MB&F, Greubel Forsey and Urwerk.
For collectors seeking originality, innovation and a glimpse of where Chinese watchmaking might be headed next, few brands are more compelling.
CELADON
Year established: 2012
Origin city: Singapore
Key products: Maison Celadon, Celadon Haute Horlogerie
Price range: US$1,500 – US$30,000+
Headquartered in Singapore but proudly made in China, Celadon deserves inclusion for its singular mission: celebrating Chinese artistic and cultural heritage through watchmaking.
Founded by Singaporean Benjamin Chee, the brand has gained international recognition for its exquisite hand-crafted porcelain dials, miniature enamel artwork and Chinese-inspired designs featuring dragons, cranes, peonies and traditional landscapes. Production is deliberately limited and highly artisanal.
Its watches – divided into the more accessible Maison Celadon collection and the high-end Celadon Haute Horlogerie collections – draw directly from Chinese history, mythology and traditional aesthetics, offering an alternative to the European narratives that dominate luxury watchmaking.
As collectors increasingly seek watches with distinctive identities and cultural depth, Celadon fills a unique niche. It is one of the strongest examples of how Chinese artistic traditions can be translated into contemporary horology.
CIGA DESIGN
Year established: 2016
Origin city: Shenzhen
Key products: Blue Planet, X Series, U Series
Price range: US$300 – US$4,000
CIGA Design, founded by industrial designer Zhang Jianmin, is arguably the brand most responsible for bringing Chinese watchmaking into mainstream global consciousness.
In 2021, its Blue Planet won the prestigious Challenge Prize at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, becoming the first Chinese-designed watch to receive such recognition. The watch’s innovative wandering-hours display and striking Earth-inspired dial captured the attention of enthusiasts worldwide.
What makes CIGA particularly interesting is its focus on industrial design. Its watches often prioritise visual creativity and user experience over traditional notions of heritage.
The result is a collection of watches that feel fresh, contemporary and relatively accessible. For younger collectors entering the hobby, CIGA Design frequently serves as a gateway into Chinese watchmaking.
LUCKY HARVEY
Year established: 2021
Origin city: Shenzhen
Key products: Mahjong Series, Dragon Series, Poker Series
Price range: US$500 – US$3,000
If Swiss watchmaking is often associated with restraint, Lucky Harvey embraces the opposite philosophy.
The young independent Chinese brand founded by Lin Xiaolin has become known for playful, conversation-starting creations featuring moving mahjong tiles, poker cards, dragons and other culturally inspired motifs.
Just as Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin has done with his Joker and Minions watches, Lucky Harvey injects a welcome sense of humour into horology.
Yet beneath the whimsy lies genuine technical competence. Many of its watches incorporate custom complications and mechanical animations that require significant engineering expertise.
Collectors who gravitate towards Lucky Harvey are typically more seasoned enthusiasts and novelty hunters, drawn to watches that are unlike anything else on the market. In an industry driven by personality and social media visibility, that uniqueness is a significant advantage.
SEA-GULL WATCHES
Year established: 1955
Origin city: Tianjin
Key products: 1963 Chronograph, Ocean Star, Master Sea-Gull Collection, Tourbillons
Price range: US$150 – US$100,000+
Sea-Gull Watches is the grand old man of Chinese watchmaking.
Established by the Chinese central government in 1955, it is widely recognised as China’s largest mechanical watch manufacturer and one of the world’s largest producers of mechanical movements.
For decades, many enthusiasts knew the company primarily as a movement supplier. Today, however, Sea-Gull Watches is increasingly showcasing the full breadth of its capabilities.
Its portfolio ranges from entry-level mechanical watches to minute repeaters, tourbillons and other high-complication pieces, many of which offer exceptional value relative to their level of complication.
The legendary 1963 Chronograph remains a rite of passage for many collectors. Then there is the Master Sea-Gull range, which is not sold online but only through selected bricks-and-mortar retailers and at special events. This high-end range, with prices exceeding US$100,000, includes double tourbillons, automaton watches and grand complications.
No discussion of Chinese watchmaking would be complete without Sea-Gull Watches; it represents both the industry’s foundations and its future potential.
SHANGHAI WATCH
Year established: 1955
Origin city: Shanghai
Key products: Under Moonlight Collection, 50s Collection, Zodiac Collection
Price range: US$500 – US$10,000+
Founded in the same year as Sea-Gull Watches, Shanghai Watch occupies an important place in China’s horological history. It was among the country’s earliest watch manufacturers and played a key role in making wristwatches accessible to generations of Chinese consumers.
Today, the state-founded brand is undergoing a revival, blending its rich heritage with more contemporary designs. Collections such as Under Moonlight showcase elegant finishing, mother-of-pearl dials and accessible luxury positioning that appeal to modern buyers.
Unlike some newer Chinese brands focused on disruption, Shanghai Watch’s strength lies in continuity. It offers a tangible connection to the country’s watchmaking past while adapting to contemporary tastes.
As interest in Chinese horological heritage continues to grow, Shanghai Watch is well positioned to benefit from a renewed appreciation of its legacy.
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