The future is lustrous: Mikimoto Japan’s boss on how the pearl specialist is winning over a new generation

Pearl jewellery was once associated with a particular group of older, prim-and-proper women – the type to “clutch their pearls” at anything scandalous to show their disapproval. But these days, it’s seeing a revival among younger, fashion-forward jewellery wearers.  

At the forefront of this evolution is Japanese maison Mikimoto. In fact, Mikimoto is so deeply synonymous with the lustrous gem that it has become the benchmark for excellence in cultured pearls.

While the brand’s origins date back to 1893 when Kokichi Mikimoto created the world’s first cultured pearl, in remains the foremost pearl specialist to this day. Yet even with such a storied legacy, the maison is not resting on tradition. While a pearl necklace is as classic as they come, in recent years, Mikimoto embraced modernity – exploring bold designs and contemporary collaborations for fresh expressions of pearl jewellery that speak to a new generation of wearers.

In 2020, Mikimoto announced a collaboration with avant-garde fashion brand Comme des Garcons (CDG). The partnership married two seemingly opposite worlds – CDG as an unconventional fashion house known for its boundary-pushing designs and Mikimoto with its legacy of timeless, classic craftsmanship.

Then in 2024, Mikimoto launched yet another unexpected collaboration, this time with Hollywood luxury label Chrome Hearts, resulting in a collection of pearl novelties with a distinct rock-and-roll edge. “The collaborations with Chrome Hearts and Comme des Garcons were strategic initiatives designed to generate brand buzz, attract new customer segments and infuse a fresh, unconventional perspective into Mikimoto’s heritage,” said Yasuhiko Hashimoto, executive vice president of Mikimoto Japan.

Among Mikimoto’s latest highlights is the Bow Charm collection, which brings a modern, elegant twist to the ribbon motif, crafted in glistening pearls, diamonds and gemstones. The bow motif is translated into a collection of high jewellery titled The Bows, where the ribbon transforms into statement pieces, including cascading lace-like necklaces, coloured gemstone-encrusted bows and multifunctional jewels.

Pieces in the collection have been worn by both male and female celebrities, such as Malaysian actress Michelle Yeoh, Chinese actor and model Song Weilong and Thai actor James Jirayu.

“The DNA of Mikimoto lies in its rich heritage as the pioneer of cultured pearls, a steadfast commitment to exceptional craftsmanship, and an enduring ability to evolve while staying true to its origins,” Hashimoto noted on the lasting appeal of the brand. “Its success over the decades is defined by consistently delivering the highest quality pearls, reimagining designs to resonate with modern tastes, as seen in the Bow Charm collection, and embracing bold collaborations with brands such as Chrome Hearts and Comme des Garcons.”

Hashimoto shares more on Mikimoto’s evolving audience, jewellery buying trends and how the brand is balancing heritage with innovation to stay relevant in today’s global luxury market.

Could you share more on the demographics of the typical Mikimoto customer and how it is changing?

Mikimoto’s customer base is evolving beyond its traditional association with elegant, sophisticated women to include a younger demographic and a wider range of clientele including both men and women interested in pearl and coloured stone jewellery.

Today’s customers are seeking more personalised, versatile pieces, with a growing interest in unisex designs that reflect modern lifestyles. This shift highlights a trend towards self-purchasing and collecting, rather than purchasing solely for special occasions.

How important is the Singapore market for Mikimoto? What are some buying trends you’ve noticed for this market?

Singapore remains a highly strategic market for Mikimoto, with exciting developments on the horizon. We continue to see a refined appreciation for pearl jewellery that carries a personal narrative, reflecting a broader shift toward self-expression and modern elegance. Buyers are moving beyond convention, favouring versatile pieces that seamlessly transition from day to evening.

Mikimoto specialises in cultured pearls. Are there any challenges with this?

As a specialist in cultured pearls, Mikimoto holds itself to exceptionally high standards, and maintaining that level of consistency is both a responsibility and a point of pride.

At the same time, evolving consumer preferences present exciting opportunities to expand creative expressions, blending Mikimoto’s unparalleled expertise in pearls with a growing interest in coloured gemstones and contemporary designs. It’s less a challenge and more a continuous journey of innovation while staying true to the brand’s heritage.

What are some of the most popular Mikimoto collections? Which are the more popular collections in Singapore?

Launched this year, the Bow Charm collection has quickly become one of our signature lines and is already on its way to becoming iconic. Alongside this, the M Signature collection continues to resonate strongly with clients. In Singapore, while timeless classics remain popular, there’s a clear preference for designs that feel personal and versatile, jewellery that effortlessly balances elegance with individual expression.

How have collaborations with CDG and Chrome Hearts performed and how have they opened new avenues for the brand?

While we’re unable to share specific figures, these collaborations have undeniably helped us broaden our reach by introducing cultured pearls to a younger, more fashion-forward audience, while reinforcing our relevance in the global luxury space.

The collection with Chrome Hearts, in particular, has seen extraordinary demand, so much so that it’s become incredibly difficult to purchase, with limited quantities produced and pieces selling out almost immediately.

These collections also included unisex designs. Do you see a growing audience for pearls amongst male jewellery lovers?

Yes, unisex designs are an integral part of Mikimoto’s strategy, reflecting the rising appeal of genderless jewellery. We’ve also observed a notable increase in male customers visiting our boutiques, which speaks to the growing appreciation for pearls among modern men.

What is Mikimoto’s approach to high jewellery and how does this shine through in The Bows?

Mikimoto’s high jewellery approach is deeply rooted in craftsmanship and creative expression, which will be highlighted at the upcoming launch of our high jewellery collection during Paris Couture Week in July.

The bow motif, a beloved motif all over the world, has seen a resurgence in popularity and is perfectly captured in The Bows high jewellery collection, which has resonated tremendously with clients and reaffirmed Mikimoto’s position at the forefront of luxury jewellery design.

What are some other jewellery buying trends you’ve noticed?

We’re seeing a growing number of registered customers seeking coloured stones alongside pearls, reflecting a desire for more distinctive and expressive designs. This is particularly evident in Asia, where customers are adding personal touches to their pearl jewellery. In response, we’ve introduced carefully selected coloured stones into our high jewellery collections to meet this evolving demand.

What markets or regions are you most focused on for future growth, and why?

Asia remains a key focus for future growth, with Singapore at the forefront. In addition to our flagship at Marina Bay Sands, we’re currently exploring the possibility of opening a second boutique to expand our presence in the market.

Lastly, what does luxury mean to you?

Luxury, for me, is about relaxation and happiness. It’s a very personal and subjective experience.