Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025: Highlights from the world’s largest watch fair

The most ambitious edition to date, Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 united a record 60 brands at the Palexpo, including the highly anticipated debuts of Italian powerhouse Bvlgari and six cutting-edge independent watchmakers, such as Christiaan van der Klaauw, MeisterSinger, Kross Studio, Genus, Armin Strom, and HYT. Held at Palexpo from Apr 1 to Apr 7, the world’s largest horological event welcomed the highest number of visitors to date, drawing over 55,000 attendees – up 12 per cent from the previous year – and over 23,000 ticket holders during the three public days alone.

This year’s fair captivated the press, connoisseurs, and enthusiasts with a full-spectrum showcase of horology, where heritage heavyweights flexed their technical muscle and avant-garde maisons embraced bold, playful creativity. Among the sea of exceptional launches, these timepieces stood out – whether for their use of cutting-edge materials, technical brilliance, or daring design language. Highlights include: Cartier’s revival of its beloved minimalist digital timekeeper, Vacheron Constantin’s platinum-clad trilogy celebrating its 270 years of watchmaking, and Chanel’s S$1.62 million blue sapphire masterpiece. These are the showstoppers that turned heads, sparked conversations, and redefined what’s next in the future of fine watchmaking.

A LANGE & SOHNE

The German manufacture enriches its sport-elegant Odysseus line with an exquisite reference executed in Honeygold. Limited to only 100 pieces, the new Odysseus Honeygold combines sophistication and sportiness in a uniquely warm and luxurious hue. Crafted from the manufacture’s proprietary gold alloy, known for its distinctive colour and exceptional hardness, the 40.5mm case flaunts polished and brushed surfaces accentuated by angular contrasts, a slender bezel, and signature tapered pushers.

Driving the watch is Lange’s robust, self-winding calibre L155.1 Datomatic, meticulously hand-finished and featuring a skeletonised, black-rhodium rotor with platinum centrifugal mass visible through the sapphire caseback. This movement delivers precise timekeeping, along with generously sized day-of-week and signature outsized date displays, complemented by luminous Honeygold hands and baton markers for optimal readability. Completing the design is a matching Honeygold bracelet – a first for the Odysseus range – featuring an innovative safety deployment buckle for effortless length adjustments of up to 7mm, even while it’s worn.

CARTIER

One of the most talked-about pieces at this year's fair was Cartier's Tank a Guichets – the ninth opus from the Cartier Prive collection. First introduced in 1928, this avant-garde timepiece challenged conventions of time with its minimalist look of jumping hours and dragging minutes displayed via discreet apertures. Nearly a century later, Cartier revives this iconic expression of early digital timekeeping through four refined interpretations that blend historical authenticity with contemporary elegance.

Retaining the design purity of the original, the new Tank a Guichets features twin apertures – hours at 12 o’clock and minutes at 6 o’clock – driven by the new hand-wound calibre 9755 MC. Like its predecessor, the winding crown is set discreetly at the top of the case to maintain the watch’s stark geometry. Measuring 37.6mm by 24.8mm and just 6mm slim, the satin-finished case is available in platinum, rose or yellow gold, each accented by polished brancards for added architectural interest. A fourth reference in platinum, limited to 200 pieces, features the two apertures positioned at an angle, a design element that pays tribute to the creativity of the 1930s.

CHANEL

Captivating the watch world with its emblematic black and white ceramic creations since 2000, Chanel turns the page with the debut of the J12 Bleu line this year. Nine new references are now swathed in a captivating shade of ceramic blue so deep, it borders on black under certain light.

However, it’s the J12 Bleu X-Ray Watch that is a scene-stealer. Boasting a price of almost S$1.62 million, the 12-piece limited edition evokes the serene tones of the sea and sky on a clear day. Over 1,600 hours of work were needed to sculpt its case and bracelet from a single block of synthetic blue sapphire. Its bezel is set with 196 baguette-cut blue sapphires, while a skeletonised dial showcases the manually wound Calibre 3.1. Colourless sapphire bridges and plates create an otherworldly effect, giving the architectural movement the appearance of floating weightlessly within the case.

HUBLOT

To mark the 20th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang, Hublot dives into new territory with the luminous Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire. This 50-piece limited edition showcases the brand’s mastery of materials with its latest hue, Water Blue. Evoking the crystalline tones of tropical seas, this near-translucent colour washes over the 44mm sapphire case, bezel, and matching rubber strap, delivering a timepiece that looks like it was carved from light.

Driving the watch is the manufacture Unico MHUB1280 calibre, a self-winding chronograph flyback movement with a column wheel and 72-hour power reserve. The movement is enhanced with anthracite ruthenium plating and a circular satin-finished tungsten rotor, visible through the openworked dial and exhibition caseback respectively. The model’s futuristic look is matched by the comfort of its lightweight profile and ergonomic design, while titanium H-shaped screws, a one-click strap system, and deployant buckle round off this horological showpiece.

IWC SCHAFFHAUSEN

Fans will be thrilled to see that the legendary Ingenieur Automatic 42 is now fully clad in black ceramic. This is the first time that the iconic integrated bracelet and case design, conceived by visionary watch designer Gerald Genta, is executed entirely in zirconium oxide ceramic, an innovation combining lightweight comfort, extreme scratch resistance, and impeccable aesthetics.

Translating the original steel Ingenieur into ceramic demanded groundbreaking innovation. Its multi-part construction incorporates a ceramic bezel, case ring, and caseback ring all seamlessly interconnected with functional screws. Inside, a titanium structural ring secures the movement and ensures a robust 100-metre water resistance. Even the crown and its protective elements benefit from ceramic’s robust yet featherlight qualities.

Every ceramic surface undergoes rigorous finishing treatments, including satin brushing, fine sandblasting, and precise edge polishing, achieving a captivating interplay of light and shadow. Beneath the characteristic grid-patterned black dial – with Super-LumiNova-filled markers and hands – beats the IWC-manufactured calibre 82110. Boasting a Pellaton winding system with wear-resistant ceramic components, this movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve. Its technical beauty can be admired through a tinted sapphire caseback that echoes the watch’s stealthy monochrome theme.

ROGER DUBUIS

To celebrate its 30th year, Roger Dubuis returns to its roots with the Excalibur Bi-retrograde Calendar – a contemporary tribute to the maison’s very first watch launched in 1996. Sized at 40mm, its pink gold case and shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial evoke the elegance Roger Dubuis pioneered in the early 2000s, as it was among the first brands to champion such precious materials in men's watches. Its refined aesthetics are complemented by a brown 3D calfskin leather strap with an interchangeable pink gold triple-folding clasp.

Staying faithful to the founder’s legacy, the calendar’s hands sweep across curved semi-circular tracks and snap back to zero at the end of each cycle, a feat achieved through a complex ballet of cams, clicks, and springs. Symmetry reigns on the dial, where the retrograde day and date indicators on either side are balanced by a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock and stamp at 12 o'clock. The latter features “Biretrograde Calendar” in the maison's historic font, as well as the prestigious Geneva Seal emblem.

The commanding timepiece is powered by the automatic Calibre RD840, delivering a 60-hour power reserve and fully visible via a sapphire crystal caseback. The oscillating weight – modelled after the 1996 original – bears an engraved quote that captures the ethos of Roger Dubuis: “This is a watch of today, inspired but not restricted to the past.”

TAG HEUER

Tag Heuer revives one of its most emblematic collections with the new Formula 1 Solargraph – a bold tribute to its ground-breaking 1986 debut. The original Formula 1 was Tag Heuer’s first watch, after Techniques d’Avant Garde acquired the Heuer brand, making this a significant launch. Youthful, rebellious, and unmistakably avant-garde, it became a defining symbol of '80s innovation and individual style.

The refreshed 2025 lineup comprises nine vibrant references. The case size has increased from 35mm to 38mm and is available in sandblasted steel, black DLC-coated steel, or TH-Polylight – a lightweight, ultra-durable material that boasts colour versatility. Signature elements return, including the curved decroche case shape and shield-shaped hour markers, while Super-LumiNova, applied indexes, and redesigned hands lend a sharp, contemporary look.

But the star of the show is the Solargraph movement, Tag Heuer’s first light-powered calibre for the Formula 1 line. It works by recharging the watch’s battery (it has a long lifespan of 15 years) with solar energy or artificial light. A two-minute sun or light charge gives the watch a full day’s power, while 40 hours fuels it for up to 10 months, even if it’s kept in the dark. If the watch has stopped, 10 seconds of light reboots it instantly.

Three core models anchor the collection: A white opaline dial with a black bezel, and a blue opaline dial with a matching bezel – both housed in steel cases with steel bracelets. The third model stands out with a white opaline dial encased in vivid red TH-Polylight and paired with a matching red rubber strap. These are joined by six limited editions in striking colour combos: Black and red; black and yellow; blue and black; white and green; white and red; and green and red. Each model is paired with either a steel bracelet or a colour-matched rubber strap.

TUDOR

The Swiss watchmaker’s latest Pelagos Ultra takes its celebrated diving watch pedigree to new extremes, quite literally. Made for the intense demands of saturation diving, this timepiece can conquer depths up to an astonishing 1,000 metres, making it Tudor's most advanced diver to date.

Encased in an imposing 43mm grade 2 titanium and complemented by a robust grade 5 titanium caseback, the Pelagos Ultra integrates a compact helium escape valve designed explicitly for professional saturation diving conditions. As clarity at such great depths is crucial, Tudor scaled up the dial for increased legibility. Bigger markers and thicker Snowflake hands also feature colour luminescence in vivid blue and green for enhanced visibility and instant readability, even in near-total darkness.

The watch is powered by Tudor’s COSC and METAS-certified MT5612-U calibre, boasting a silicon hairspring and an impressive 65-hour power reserve. The Pelagos Ultra is presented on a satin-brushed titanium bracelet that’s fitted with a special adjustable clasp for quick length adjustment. Another highlight that’s also a first for the Pelagos line: A visual indicator on the clasp featuring a luminous marker that allows the wearer to easily discern what setting the bracelet is at. Also included in the package is a high-performance black rubber strap and extension for the thickest wetsuits.

VACHERON CONSTANTIN

The Swiss watchmaker did not disappoint with this trilogy that commemorates its 270th anniversary. Each a 370-piece numbered edition, the Traditionnelle Openface timepieces in 41mm platinum cases showcase two of the maison’s most recognisable signatures: The openworked dial and retrograde display. A masterclass in high watchmaking featuring a fine balance of mechanical innovation and aesthetic finesse, it’s easy to see why Vacheron Constantin remains one of the industry’s most revered names.

The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface debuts the Calibre 2460 QPR31/270, a brand-new in-house movement equipped with two complications. The first is a retrograde date display on the upper part of the dial, while the second is a perpetual calendar that requires no correction until 2100. This openworked display features transparent sapphire discs for the day, month, and leap year with markings set against a deep blue background to retain the dial’s airiness. A moonphase complication at 6 o’clock needs an adjustment only once every 122 years.

Equally mesmerising is the Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, which is powered by the self-winding Calibre 2162 R31/270 boasting a 72-hour power reserve. It combines a tourbillon at 6 o'clock with a retrograde date display, whose intricate workings can be seen through the upper part of the openworked dial.

Rounding out the trilogy is the Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface. Equipped with the Calibre 2460 QCL/270, it puts the triple calendar front and centre. The day and month are displayed via sapphire discs, while the date is displayed around the periphery of the dial and indicated by a blued central hand. At 6 o’clock is a moonphase that’s accurate for 122 years. As with the other two timepieces, this model fuses classic watchmaking with a refined aesthetic enhanced by the openface design.

All three iterations feature a 270th anniversary guilloche motif inspired by the maison’s hallmark Maltese cross, and hand-applied cote unique finishing on their bridges – an artisanal flourish rediscovered in 2021 from the archives. Adding the finishing touch to this trio is a hand-stitched alligator leather strap with a platinum Maltese Cross pin buckle.

ZENITH

To mark its 160th anniversary, Zenith unveils the GFJ, which brings back to life one of the most celebrated movements in watchmaking history: The Calibre 135. Known for its obsession with precision, Zenith holds an unmatched record of 2,333 chronometry prizes. At the heart of that success is the Calibre 135, developed in the 1950s to compete in observatory trials. It went on to win 235 first-place awards, a record that still stands today. These trials were the ultimate test of chronometric excellence, with watchmakers like Zenith submitting specially made movements to earn industry prestige. With the GFJ, the Swiss manufacture brings the Calibre 135 into the modern era, preserving its core design, while updating the craftsmanship for today’s collectors.

This watch honours Zenith's founder Georges Favre-Jacot, whose initials lend the model its name. While the new version retains the dimensions, look and architecture of its predecessor, it’s a modern re-engineering that integrates up-to-date technical solutions and materials. Enhancements include an extended 72-hour power reserve, a stop-second mechanism for precise time setting, and a large, refined balance wheel equipped with a Breguet overcoil hairspring and precision screws. It’s also officially COSC certified to ensure accuracy within ±2 seconds per day.

A 39.15mm platinum case with a stepped bezel and lugs frames a dial in the brand’s signature blue. Its three-part construction boasts an outer ring with a brick guilloche pattern, which draws from the facade of Zenith’s historic manufacture. Its centre is made from deep, blue lapis lazuli, whose gold pyrite flecks evoke a starry sky. The stone’s natural texture means no two dials are alike. Meanwhile, an oversized subdial at 6 o’clock indicating the passing seconds is executed in mother-of-pearl.

The 160-piece limited edition comes with three straps: Dark blue alligator, black calfskin, and blue Saffiano leather. Serious collectors can opt for a luxurious seven-row platinum bracelet featuring centre links embossed with a brick pattern.